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cranialgirl

Need fast two step pest help

15 years ago

We built a new garden this year. Used the dirt that was there, dug out pathways and heaped them up to make raised beds, added alfalfa meal, steam rolled oat groats, and dried molasses. eventually ended up with cedar mulched pathways, and a mixture of strw, grass clippings mulch on the beds themselves.

Planted lots of tomatoes, green and banana peppers, bush beans, saucer and summer squash, delicata squash, broccoli, beets, carrots, sage and basil, green onions, shallots and a few regular onions and a pumpkin.

There are vine borers in all the vining plants, plus squash. They are dead, dying or I have pulled them up. They were infested with squash bugs even with 2-3 trips out there every day to kill and squash. The tomatoes are great, and so are the peppers.

I have so many green lacewings, they swarm you when you disturb the tomatoes as you can imagine I don't have an aphid problem. I am also infested! with assasin bugs, more than one kind. That all makes me happy.

unfortunately the beans started out ok, then stopped growing, looked stressed and diseased, and tried to halfheartedly give beans, some only 6 inches tall or less. A few grew nice and bug and bushy, although all are being ate up with bean beetles(really tough to squash because they fly!) and unhealthy looking.

Last night I decided to pull up the worst ones so I could replant, I had already started some fresh ones where the beets and broccoli had been, and they looked healthier but still lace leaved from the bugs. I was surprisd to see the roots had a few white powdery bumps and they seemed like they may have something alive in it, and they were covered with bugs that I think are root aphids!!!!

I came in and started researching and came up with little except for hydrophonics. Today I went to the nursery with samples and they don't know either except for systemic poison. Not. He said they are usually on hydroponics.

I think I have a two fold problem, one a fundamental problem with my soil, and another with what to do about the root aphids that are now living in my soil.

I tested PH this monring and most places, especially in the bean patch, it is between 5 and 6. Other places where peppers are a little higher. I don't know if that is too off or enough off to cause and issue. ??????

I have a rapitest soil nutrient test kit that I have not been able to get to give any kind of result. No matter what I test it says there is no nutrients in it. I need to call the company I guess.

So far this year I have fertilized a couple times with Espoma Garden-tone and then fish emulsion and seaweed.

I have thought and looked around and an thinking of making a soil drench around the beans of sesame oil, and garlic and hot pepper. Maybe a little neem throwed in for good measure. I know this is not helping the dirt, but I have to get rid of the root aphids some way, and not keep planting and have them munching away on my plants unseen.

I have always loved to garden, and I know first year with this garden and not any tests on the front end was not a good set-up, and I have tried to not get too frustrated, but I have an opportunity to make some changes now before the fall planting, and really need to address the bug problem.

I am open to any help on the aphids, bean beetles, and soil amending. I would like to treat the bugs in the next day or two. Thanks so much everyone!!! Julie

Comments (15)

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Where at in the United States are you? Can you post some pics of your roots? If you have so many lacewings its likely you do have other bug problems or they might not be there in high numbers. Have you been using your neem oil to treat the garden? Also look into attracting birds in to your garden with a bird feeder and water. The birds will help take care of your bugs also. A option that you might have is pulling the plants and covering the soil with black plastic so the sun can sterilize the soil.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Black plastic won't sterilize the soil, and clear plastic will only help if it'd done properly.

    I strongly suggest that you spring for a soil test at a testing laboratory. Most communities have a local extension office staffed with people who will be able to answer your questions about soil testing. I still think that MOST states' extension services will test soils for a very low fee. Call and find out if yours is one of them.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    If you live in the United States many of the state universities will do soil tests for soil pH and major nutrient levels which is a place to start. If we knew where in the world you are that would help. If you are in a state where soil testing is not done then maybe you could contact the University of Massachusetts to have that done.
    In addition these simple soil tests may be of some help,
    1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

    2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

    3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

    4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell.

    5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Thanks. We are in TN. Sorry I forgot that. Last time i checked our county no longer does testing, but I am close enough to have it done somewhere else. And after reading here last night about the inaccuracy of home tests, that is the plan.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Also, I do need help with the root ahids. I am doubtful that they will go away even as I make the soil better.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Also, I do need help with the root ahids. I am doubtful that they will go away even as I make the soil better.


    I agree , I would take care of this before anything else.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    The latest information I have from the University of Tennessee is that they do soil testing with the basic pH, N, P, K test costing $7.00. Since your county office is part of the UT Cooperative Extension Service they should be providing this service.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Last time I checked county was not doing soil testing. I am hoping when I get it done it is a little more thorough than the big three. I will ask the nursery where they suggest for testing.

    Plan is to make up garlic, hot pepper, sesame oil and drench soil around infected plants, or where I think they may be infected. Wait a few weeks, then work soil, turn it over by hand and add a lot more compost from the nursery.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    our county office of your University of Tennessee no longer accepts soil samples for testing they should be able to provide you with names of labs that do. I believe that the University of Massachusetts will do a good soil test for a reasonable cost for you if the University of Tennessee no longer does.

    Here is a link that might be useful: UMASS soil testing

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Thanks kimmsr, I will look into that if needed. The nursery said Ellington Agricultural Center, but I have to wait til MOnday to see if they really do testing there or not. I am going to have a few different bed areas done when I go to the trouble of sending off samples. May as well make it worth the while!

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Excuse me for being amused at your question, but in organic gardening the word fast doesn't exist. From what I've read and heard from others, it takes about 7 years for a garden to balance itself once you disturb the ground ( I'm on year 6). and I still can't get an onion to grow, but I try every year. The garden will decide what AND when. I can go with it or fight it. It will win. Think of the garden as a living creature that likes to give. It gets to choose what it will give. Don't try to tell it what to do and you will get along fine just follow along

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    It may take 3 to 5 years to convert a soil that was brutalized with synthetic fertilizers and the poisons used with "converntional" gardening, but not 7 years. If the soil is properly built up with organic matter 3 years should see a real change beginning.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I've had good results with sheet composting or Interbay mulch method of improving the soil by layering right on top of existing soil. I'll include the link for the info on this forum.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Interbay Mulch

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Let me clarify on the word fast. :-) I needed fast info, not fast pest relief! Haha

    Fortunately we haven't used any chemicals on the lawn before it was made into a garden spot. I am going to guess for sure 9 years of organic, I would have to ask my husband before that as I did not live here with him.

    I am planning on planting a fall garden, but not the entire thing, and ALL will be amended with compost, as much as I can afford, anyway.

    Next year,, i will be more choosy on what I plant, and when I plant it. I learned a lot this year, by failing at most of it, unfortunately.

  • 15 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    can you clarify what your question is in 1-2 sentences, I am a little confused?