Hey, just curious where exactly in SW Idaho? I have great friends that area.

I am not a soil guru, but I will give you a general overview. (I am assuming this is a Logan Labs test) Your results look very good. Your pH is on the lower end of the perfect range for cool season grasses, but still very good, especially since most western soils are basic. If you do want to lime to bring it up a bit, use calcitic lime, and use the lower rate (5 lbs. per 1000 I think). Low potassium is an easy fix, and yours is borderline low. The best thing to use to raise K is potassium sulfate. It can be hard to find however, and potassium chloride is cheaper and usually what you find in fertilizers. If you don't find it, then use high K fertilizers, like 28-0-11. Your P is high, which isn't a problem, all your fertilizers can have a zero for the middle number for a long time. Your micros look OK, except your boron is low. There is another site I frequent that can give you a detailed analysis if you want. Let me know.

Thanks Tiemco. Appreciate the info. High K fertilizer
is what I'll look for.
Yes, It was from Logan Labs.
Yes, if you can shoot me the website you use or post it here, that would be great. I'd like to learn more.

Only other question is what is the "Total Exchange Capacity"? And is 13 Good,Bad,or indifferent?
It's a clayish type soil here that I've tried to add organic material to over the last couple years.

Total Exchange Capacity is a measure of how many sites your soil has to accept cations (positively charged ions) including hydrogen (CEC is all the cations except hydrogen) Exchange capacity varies with soil type, it's lower in sandy soils, higher in soils with silt, clay and/or large amounts of organic matter. The number you have tells you more about your soils makeup than anything else, and it will help you develop a fertilizing strategy. Your number is indicative of a good loam soil. It's a bit low to be a high clay soil, but most loams have some clay component.