I mow my lawn high all year, but some people mow low going into winter, especially those who are in areas that are prone to snow mold.

As far as winter fertilizer goes, if you're thinking of the fertilizer marketed as winterizer, I would skip that and instead use something that is high nitrogen (like 21-0-0 or 45-0-00 and apply at a rate that will give you about 1 lb of actual N per 1000 sq ft (so about 5 lbs per 1000 sq ft of the 21-0-0 or about 2 lbs of the 45-0-0).

Apply it after the top growth has stopped, but while the grass is still green. This approach helps the grass store energy in its roots. The grass will stay green longer (maybe even all winter) and will green up sooner in the spring if it does go dormant.

I thought it best to go for a winterizer low in N and high in phosphorus and potassium which helps the roots grow? Am confused now, should we use normal fertilizer then? I have some left over? Or get the winterizer low in N?

"I thought it best to go for a winterizer low in N and high in phosphorus and potassium which helps the roots grow? Am confused now, should we use normal fertilizer then? I have some left over? Or get the winterizer low in N?"

That's kind of the conventional wisdom, but from what I understand, the winterizer approach was based on some research using warm season grass. More recent research has shown that a late fall high nitrogen feeding works best. The thinking before was that a late fall high nitrogen feeding would produce a flush of top growth and take away from the roots. They found that if you wait until the top growth stops, the nitrogen helps the grass produce more food for itself, which it then stores in the roots.

I'll try to find a link to one of the studies and post it here.

45-0-0???? That is new

It's also a typo (and I made it twice). It should have been 46-0-0.

kevin galaxy, you are correct which is precisely why "winterizers" have the phosphorus.

Root growth continues after the top shoots stop growing. The idea is the root store the carbohydrates and you get a better/longer spring green up.

The key to phosphorus is if your soil needs it. Then yes, fall is the best time. If you don't need P, then just a moderate N load is recommended. This is why 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 is perfect for the last feeding after the top growth has stopped.

See link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Penn State Link

Indiana, the experts.....who's an expert...cant agree on what sort of fertilizer should be considered in the fall as a 'winterizer' type.

"I've heard.....I heard somebody say....I read somewhere......or I recall somebody said last year"....
.....and all the other sources of what we wish to go by are out there.
High nitrogen, low nitrogen, low potash, high potash....

Some fertilizer bags are labelled "winterizer"....and if you wish to believe the maker knew what he was doing when he bagged it, then go with that.
Otherwise, believe if your lawn has been taken care of regularly....given fertilizer on a schedule, given moisture when called for, mowed at a correct height and left the clippings on...for the most part, then your grass may not need such fall fertilizer, the lawn will stand up to winter and come back in the spring without undue damage.

Without hit and miss, it is agreed that a height of 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" is ideal for lawn grasses...depending on which type of grass you have. Some definitely should be cut lower than others, some higher.

Going into winter, there is two thoughts on whether you should cut low....really low, or whether you should leave it high...higher than normal.
If you do one or the other, then understand beforehand what each situation gives your lawn.

I leave mine higher...why.....because that's what my father told me to do....and everybody knows.....

'father knows best'.

People spend millions doing lawn research, use it. The link below is from Purdue's Turfgrass Science Program (since you are from Indiana, you can pick other nearby Universities if you like).

Here is a link that might be useful: Maintenance Calendar for Indiana Lawns

Something that should be stated. Some folks are looking for a decent lawn more or less weed free and green.

Others wish to have a "trophy lawn" which requires more input and paying attention to fine details.

Jeannie7, not sure what your point is but I will take an excerpt from your post: "given fertilizer on a schedule"

Enough said.....

If you look at the page I linked above, it has schedules for Low, Medium, and High Maintenance lawns, so jlm can pick their poison.

excerpt for the Indiana Maintenance Calender link,

"Aerification and/or power should be done only when grass is growing vigorously."

so my neighbors here in WI that had it done yesterday post our first hard freeze made a mistake?

"so my neighbors here in WI that had it done yesterday post our first hard freeze made a mistake?"

Yes. The lawn will probably recover in the spring, but it will be stressed and won't be as healthy as if it had been done at the proper time.