Well, what's actually green doesn't look bad.

The major problem is that very little of it's green. But what you're looking at there isn't thatch, it's just dead stuff. Thatch is usually dead stems and runners, not dead grasses (which tend to break down pretty well).

At this point, it's late enough in the season that you're not going to be able to do much. Temperatures are falling, so growth is slowing down.

I'd make sure to winterize that with a good synthetic when growth stops. Other than that, table it until spring.

Thanks Morph,
It didn't show up very well but the color of the dead grasses is bronze. Is that the red thread or dollar spot..
Attached is the overall look of the front yard.

What would you recommend come spring time?

Thanks

Morph and DC,
this photo is an attempt to show the thatch layer.

Photo of back yard lawn close up

If I recall we both commented on the chemical soup you've had applied by the lawn company. Grass is not nearly that complicated that it needs to have all that stuff applied. I've used nothing but organic fertilizer since 2002. Morph uses organic fertilizers except for one drop of a chemical winterizer. He also fine tunes his soil chemistry, but beyond that he doesn't use insecticide, herbicide, or fungicide except on the very rare occasion and only with a highly specific diagnosis.

I think once you stop throwing the chemistry set at the ground and the organics kick in, you're going to see a turn around. If anything, do a soil test. You've probably seen the sort of analysis that morph can provide on the Logan Labs tests. Since you're in MA, you might want to do a UMASS soil test. Those are right up there with Logan Labs as far as quality.

I would not wait until spring for an organic fertilizer. Yes, most of the microbes shut down for the winter, but not all of them. Also there will be the occasional warm rain come next spring. If you don't have any food down for the microbes, they will have to wait. I would prefer to see you get something down now and let Nature take Her course over the winter. You can do both the organic and chemical winterizer on the same day if you want to. They do not interact.

After thinking about it, I agree with David here. Try some Milorganite.

Looking at the photos...well, that's not dreadful or anything, but it's not great. However, for now I'd ignore the thatch layer and work on the grass. Mostly because adding the stress of a dethatching to that really isn't looking like it's a good idea.

DC and Morph,
Thank you both for all of the help you have provided and the patience you have shown with all of my questions.
Please review my plan going forward and make necessary corrections.
This fall:
1.) Apply Milorganite and a winterize synthetic fertilizer.
2.) Stop lawn service.
Next Spring.
1.) De-thatch lawn
2.) Mid- April: Apply pre-emergent crabgrass preventer and Jonathan Green Organic Fertilizer 8-0-3.
3.) Memorial Day: Apply Milorganite
4.) Start proper water technique (once a week as needed)
5.) July 4th: Apply Milorganite
6.) Labor Day: Apply Jonathan Green Organic Fertilizer 8-0-3.
7.) October 15th Apply Milorganite and synthetic winterizer fertilizer
I will be sure to re-post before and after photos
Thanks again

Skip the April fertilization, it's too early even for organics. Let the lawn recover naturally from its carbohydrate reserves, it'll be better for the roots.

You can shift that April 15 fertilization to May 1 as it won't be coming into play until the third week of May. It's late enough by then, and you don't need to move the Memorial Day one which will come into play in June.

You may or may not want to skip the July 4th Milorganite depending on the weather. Hot and dry and projected to stay that way? Skip it. Cooler, wetter, and going to be a rainy July? Go for it if you want.

The fall feeding is a little trim. I'd be tempted to feed organically August 1, September 1, and October 1 (or, what I actually do). It meters in plenty of nitrogen from late August onward.

Winterization is done when the grass stops growing, not on a set date, so that will vary by quite a bit. If you fed organically through the period, what date that is really doesn't matter too much. At this point, I have no estimate for my winterization date; it's far too early to estimate 2014, much less 2015.

If I could chime in I would just use a little caution when going to a once per week or once per two week watering schedule. Your lawn may need to be weaned onto such a schedule. I found that my lawn got a bit too dry in some places when I waited even just a week. Of course my lawn was new last October, so maybe that had some bearing on things. I guess my point is to watch your lawn and water it when it looks drought stressed, even if it hasn't been a week.

Thanks again for the help.
I am sorry I didn't remember to ask all of my questions a once.
Is it necessary to use grub and insect controls (i.e. Grub-x)
on an organically feed lawn?
If I do use it will it hurt the organic enviroment I am trying to establish in the soil?

GrubX, maybe if you have an intractable Japanese beetle (or other grub) problem that won't respond to other treatments.

Insect controls, no. I have an enormous number of insects wandering around that do no damage to the lawn or anything else. They're on the helpful and harmless lists.

Morph,
What other treatments can I use for the Japanese Beettle grubs if necessary?

Thanks

Milky Spore performs well on many lawns (but not on mine for some reason). Nematodes can be applied to kill the hatched grubs, but do have to be kept damp to work.

What do I do? Grub-X. I'm not thrilled with having to use a chemical there, but the Japanese beetle problem's gotten bad enough to make several thousand square feet of turf "float" with no roots.