(It seems) that being that the tree is full of codominates, there wasn't much reason for him to remove that entire branch. Instead, he just kept it from crowding the leader. That crotch is going to develop included bark soon, but without seeing a wider angle probably the rest of the branch attatchments are about the same, so nothing that can or really should be done about it.

That's not an unusual style of pruning cut; however, judging whether this should have been a complete removal to the trunk or whether the intent was to keep a branch at this location on the tree is impossible to determine with only a picture of a portion of the tree.

With that stipulation, I'd surmise that the arborist did want to retain a branch in that spot.

Another consideration about pruning relates to the relative size of the side branch being removed versus the diameter of the trunk where the branch connects. The more similar in diameter the branch and trunk are, the more potential problems you may create for your tree when you make that cut at the trunk. The trunk should be substantially larger in caliper so that pruning cuts (wounds) can be rapidly closed. A vigorous growing species (like the maple illustrated) may allow some leeway in this regard, but the average homeowner doesn't have enough experience to know this, so discretion is the better part of valor.

This is why pruning ought to be paid attention to from the start of growing, so that long-term unnecessary branches are removed periodically and in a timely manner before they reach substantial caliper. This idea came up in one of your other posts (Acer triflorum selection, I think).

If the branch is already pretty large but must be eliminated, this ought to be done in phases (see Gilman below). A pruning cut such as shown in the image above is just a first cut in eventual elimination. A second cut further down could occur next in the next year or two, and a final removal cut at the trunk accomplished in year four or five. This allows for increase in trunk diameter, while the side branch is losing growth potential with continual reduction.

I agree with the recognition of included bark in the crotch shown. With the phased removal method, this branch can eventually be eliminated while the trunk increases in diameter. Again, without more information (images) of this tree, an overall recommendation is not possible.

This thought process is integral to the reason why you should NOT reduce canopy on a B&B transplanted (or otherwise very recently stressed) tree. Plants in that condition are trying to recover and regrow roots, and don't need the added (intentional, no less) stress of closing wounds made by pruning cuts. Additionally, if you prune a newly transplanted B&B tree, you are eliminating new leaves that the tree would have produced that are the source of the energy/nutrients that the tree would use to regrow all the roots it lost in transplantation (often up to 90%). That's counterproductive.

As you have posted often, and seem to be procuring a wealth of really interesting trees - along with a healthy passion to know a lot about all avenues arboriculture - you ought to gradually acquire some solid texts (as well as online information) about these aftercare issues. May I suggest:

**Anything by Dr. Ed Gilman on pruning
**Arboriculture (Richard Harris, et al)
**All of Alex Shigo's texts
**Anything by Gary Watson (formerly, maybe still, of Morton Arboretum)
**Anything by James Urban, FASLA (landscape architect and researcher supreme about urban trees, quality, and planting)

That is a good set of foundational information upon which to build an arboretum-quality landscape and maintenance regime.

I would have cut it where you wanted to. I'm more of an aggressive pruner than most. It's a matter of looking ahead as far as possible. That crotch is trouble down the road. ;-)

Not enuf info to judge in my view. Surely with that angle the whole thing should have come out, but there may be extenuating circumstances so there will be no definitive answer in this thread with the amount of info given.

Dan

Unfortunately these are the first trees I planted on my current property (only planted 3 or so trees before then) and they are the most important shade trees on the lot...shading the southwest side of my house and are 15' from the house.

When selecting them I didn't know much about branching structure...I knew I had to pick a tree with the right cultural requirments, size, straight trunk and central leader.

This particular cultivar is 'Celzam' aka Celebration Maple. By nature it has more acute attachments due to its much more narrower upright habit compared to other freemanii maples.

Below are two more view. The last one is the other Celebration Maple that had a co-dom leader with a very tight v-crotch...same guy made this cut.

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Sorry for double post...VV, if you were to chose any one of those books to start with, which would you chose?

Someone also recommended Arboriculture at one point but its quite the pricy book...although probably a much better investment than paying (I know some don't want to hear this) an arborist hundreds of dollars to prune my trees that I can easily do myself with the right knowledge.

Touché, whaas.

Even if you still want to pay someone else to do the job, with texts like these you are more knowledgeable about the process and finished product, not to mention all the other value/information gained from these tomes.

I'd check and see how much is already online. I'd bet Gilman's work is pretty well covered, though there's nothing like having the info in hand as you are observing your tree's condition. I'd also look to pick up the "pricey" books second hand. Lots of opportunities for that online, as well as at college bookstores when students chuck them at the end of every semester.

I will editorialize here, though - don't consider yourself the target. People will balk at spending $50 or $100 on a book (which will essentially last forever), but gladly throw down much bigger bucks (repeatedly) on their plants. I've never quite figured that out.

That said - I'd also recommend you take a look at these books in a bookstore or at a library first. Everyone has varied ways of learning or assimilating information, and these texts present information differently. Only you can judge which might be the best first book for you.

WAYS

**Pictures/Drawings in a how-to manner; elementary

**Scientific biological presentation; medium/advanced

**Totally incomprehensible research gibberish that you need to earn your Ph.D to understand; advanced/useless

OK, the last one was a jab at those who don't operate in the real world at all.

Personally, I think my best decision back when I first was getting dirt under my fingernails was to acquire Dirr's Manual. Not because he is God (maybe St. Michael), but because he presents his information in text, with little color/flash to distract you from learning about the plant. From there, you go on to want to know/see more, but with the solid basis (hopefully) of knowing what you're looking at when you see it.

Dirr is also wonderfully biased and humorous in his descriptions and evaluations of plants. Even when you disagree (which I do, often), you remember what was stated which is more often the point.

Look for texts like that. Shigo is one of those, though there are some here that think he was a Shigo-ster.

Finally, as for your tree: a Celebration maple is a vigorous plant that is probably going to forgive even the worse flush-cut (similar to last photo above) and grow right on and prosper. Wouldn't try a similar approach to Yellowwood, Beech, or other treasured trees.

That tree shows a lot of clustering of branches throughout its canopy. Typical for Acer x freemanii, but not necessarily desirable for long term stability of your tree. Working to create more of a separated scaffolding of the branch arrangement is a good approach.

Take a look at similar mature native trees elsewhere - Red maples, likely, or go to an arboretum where you might find older specimens of Celebration - and get an idea of how far apart the main branches arising from the trunk typically are spaced. That's an ideal to aim for, which isn't always possible. It's a better answer than a supremely congested situation, which is what you currently have.

All that said, don't stress out over it. Build your knowledge and experience foundation, avoid buying problem children, and enjoy growing plants! They are living things, and sometimes they are injured, get sick, and die. That's the cycle of life. You get to start anew, and that (to me) is the greatest joy of gardening.

That bottom foto shows too many limbs in a small area. Soon you'll want to remove two. Arboriculture is the bible. Period. I use lots of Gilman's stuff, and you can't go wrong with Watson. IMHO Shigo is for practicing arborists. That original cut is fine for now.

Dan

VV, you definitely have an interesting approach on things, lol. This is a good thing.

I'll watch for Arboriculture online, but in the meantime the library may be a good resource for this publication.

Dirr's manual along with Dirr's viburnums is what pushed for me to get more "interesting" things planted in my landscape. My next step is to really start looking into aftercare with these plants.

Funny you mention the flush cut. Another arborist came to take a look at an ailing Black Cherry I had and pointed out that the cut was a little too flush but will be ok.

That cluster of lower branches on the last photo is going to be tricky. I'll give the tree a couple years to rebound from the that major cut...it was about 25% of the canopy.

Definitely check used bookstores for books. I picked up a pristine copy of Harris's Arborculture at a used book store for just a few dollars a few years ago. I just looked it up on Amazon and gulped. I never realized what a good deal I got. It is a good basic easy-to-understand text that covers many of the things one needs to know about trees.

6 of this.. half dozen of the other... what concerns me is that it has already replaced what was cut out.. with two more leaders .... which you might want to snip out ... though now i see further down .. it is way up there ...

its a maple.. ignore it ... lol

ken

I used to serve on a board with Harris, which is probably why I recommend it at every opportunity. And if there is someone who knew more about trees overall than him, I don't know who it is/was. As bboy can attest, used books are a good way to go, when I lived in Seattle there were (literally) a million books on sale @ any one time there. Madison oughta have a used Harris at a student bookstore around there.

Dan

I was just there for a game too, I bet they may have had something left over from fall semester...oh well.

Aboriculture...I'd assume yes, but do I go after the latest 2003 edition?

BTW, I just bought a copy of Arborculture on eBay last week for $6.50. Granted, it's a 1st ed. and 8th printing, so it's not a current copy, but for that price, I think it is well worth it.