Here is the picture of the full tree after all the cedar rust infected leaves removed. The red circle marked on the picture is the bored location

Do a search for and study "host plants for cedar rust". A complicated and very interesting subject. You should find listed named plant/tree varieties with resistance to cedar rust and as the fungus is in your neighborhood you would be wise to copy and save that information for future reference.

The disease is cedar apple rust, but if the leaves are more uniformly yellow, and not spotty and rusty looking, that isn't your problem. I would be much more concerned about that large trunk wound. Cedar apple rust doesn't do that. A physical injury can cause it, but I think that wound looks like a canker. Have a look at the link I'm posting and see what you think.

Here is a link that might be useful: K-State Extension: Canker Diseases of Trees

thanks for the replies, at this time i am not sure if its beetle bore or infection called cranker. when i look at the hole i see tiny holes inside in affected area one goes upward and other downward its like i drilled with bits. still i am not sure how to cure this.

If your tree trunk develops a canker (not cranker), the wound provides a pathway for insects to get in and begin chewing. So the insects would be the secondary problem, not the primary one. With a tree that young and a wound that large, it will be difficult to cure. Refer back to the K-State document I posted. And be aware that apple trees are quite susceptible to trunk diseases.

sounds like you got soem good advice..

but you might want to also try in the fruit forum ... for further opinion ...specifically in regard to fruit trees ...

as to trees ....

what is all that string about??? ... that is not proper tree staking ... but i wonder if you even need it ... since you are into year two, if i read your facts correctly ....

and whats all the stuff wrapped around the bottom..

and did you amend the whole planting box???

and is that fence south facing or north facing????

ken

thanks for your info Ken adrian

i will post this to fruit forum as you suggested.

The string i put last month when there was a heavy rain and windy, i put some temporary string to hold on it for that wind, i did not expect to stay becaz the string was not that strong but it survived so long. I followed 3-tie method, you see 2 on the left (front and back) and the one on right is not suppose to be like that, it was tied with a anchor below along with the raised bed, i removed the anchor to fix something so i tied it to another anchor near by and its only temporary. The main reason i put the 3-tie becaz one branch fell-off 2 months ago (as i mentioned before its exactly the spot the wound is there now) initially i convinced its becaz of wind but now i have my doubts that branch may have weekend becaz of this wound, not sure anyway

On the base of the tree is you see a flexibile plastic tube like to protect from bunnies, its not tightly fit.

We wanted to have fruit trees on our backyard and we have plenty of space to do, so we planted apple, cherry and grape vine last year. I researched a lot and tested my soil and it was not good at all, 12" deep its rock solid clay and drainage is not good. I did drainage test in quite few places in my yard and picked this spot finally which is little better and don't want to take any chance so i made a 14" high 6 x 6 raised bed and filled with organic soil. I made two of this raised bed one for apple and another for cherry, its actually next to the apple tree around 10 feet distance. The fence is facing east, i checked and i get full sun from sun rise to 1 hr before sun set.

any info that will help me in fixing this tree would be appreciated.

thanks for your info MulchMama
reading that article scares me that my trees is going to die, i did spend quite amount of time to set this up. (see the reply above for another member response i wrote)