Stop pruning now if you haven't already. Let the blooms develop and don't deadhead anymore this fall. Wait until the soil freezes with a frozen crust, then apply mulch or a rose cone on your hybrid tea. If the others are ownroot, apply a layer of oak leaves or any kind of mulch at the base of the Bucks and the Easy Elegance. Any exposed canes may die overwinter except on the hardier varieties.
I don't advise fall pruning except to shorten really tall canes to prevent whipping in winter winds. Prune in spring as soon as the buds swell.
If your roses are grafted and the bud unions are not buried, they should be covered as above to protect them over winter. A mound of oak leaves, soil, or mulch applied after a hard frost should protect the bud unions. Any cane sticking out the top will probably die back but if the bud union and lower portion of canes are covered, the bush will recover and grow back quickly after spring pruning. You can also tie the canes together for the winter to prevent wind whip and snow load damage.
My webpage linked below has lots of zone 5a winter protection and rose growing advice. Some is way overboard but that's when I had to protect 550 tender hybrid teas and other modern roses.

Here is a link that might be useful: rosenut's webpage

Karl,

Thank you so much for the info and the link, it was exactly what im looking for! Also helps that you are in the same zone as me albeit your climate might be slightly different since youre two states over.

I have stopped cutting roses and i believe last week was the last time that my wife cut some roses off the Easy Elegence.

Ive heard the rose cones can be problematic so im going to do cedar mulch and leafs with chickenwire around it. I was going to do it to all of the roses but do you think that it is overkill on the hardier roses (EE and two bucks)? Im certain that the Easy Elegence is own root, and im 99% that both Bucks are own root but i would hate to guess wrong if you know what i mean.

I buried the HT about 4" below the soil and i fully plan on protecting it as its one of our favorite roses. I also plan on tieing the canes together with twine unless there is something else you suggest using or will i even need to do that since they will be surrounded by the chicken wire and mulch?

One last question: With trees you generally give them one "big drink" of water after your first hard frost to help them during the winter so they dont dry out. Does the same rule apply to roses?

Thanks again!

Yes, a well hydrated rose bush will survive winter better, but, too much moisture in canes that have not gone completely dormant can freeze in bitter cold temps and split the canes. Should this occur, canker can develope around the split and the cane should be removed above the split when pruning in spring.
I've experienced some really dry winters with minimum snowfall and other moisture, but with really cold temps.
I lost quite a few roses those winters due to drying out. When I built the boxes over the beds years ago, I always cut many holes in the tops so melting snow and winter rains could get to the roses.
Rose cones will work if the top is removed and tossed. The open top allows air circulation and prevents heat buildup from sun shining on the foam.
Even with the cones I always shoved leaves in around the roses.
You can use chicken wire cages around any rose bush and should unless you're sure your rose is hardy. I've got many Buck roses that die back severely, uncovered, and require considerable pruning each spring. Except for oak leaves, my roses do not get any cover.
Surrounded by chicken wire and mulch, you shouldn't have to tie the canes.