Hi Caleb!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Why do you want to prune the maples and oaks to let in light?!?!?!?!?!?!? And the cherry may or may not produce better after pruning!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Depends on the crown condition! More info needed!!1

Dan!

there is a fruit forum.. the the fruit peeps do things that tree peeps consider an wrong ... so you might want to chime in over there for fruit science ... !!!!!!!

otherwise.. i tend to prune when i walk by with the pruning saw ... !!!!

bye!!!!!!

ken

ps: i also wonder what is possessing you to want to prune to let light in the middle ... the center of a tree [other than fruit] is not supposed to have light in there ...

Ken,

Only the untrained/unenlightened fruit-tree peeps do things that most trained/enlightened ornamental-tree peeps consider wrong. The other fruit-tree peeps may do things differently than the ornamental-tree peeps might typically do, in order to achieve different results. The techniques used vary because the goals/objectives are different.

Caleb,

Pruning timing can depend on a number of factors. As Ken said, many types of trees can have minor pruning done just about anytime. Dead, diseased, or rubbing branches should be removed when they are discovered. Major pruning may require more planning. The purpose of the pruning, possible pest/disease issues, and the response of the tree may need to be considered.

An example of timing issues can be seen when comparing winter/late-winter/early-spring pruning to mid-summer pruning of many fruit trees. Most of the sculpting/training of the trees may be done in the winter while growth-control pruning may need to be scheduled for mid-summer. Generally, major pruning is avoided in late-summer/fall because the new growth triggered by the pruning may not have time to harden off before winter, and new tender growth is more easily killed back by cold temperatures.

On the topic of letting more light into your trees...I'm wondering if you were actually thinking about the fruit trees. Your post appeared to suggest you were concerned with thinning your non-fruit trees.

Well I get the impression that I shouldn't prune the non-fruit trees.

I read in my horticulture book that it can be done.
and I quote.

"Thinning involves removing certain branches from a plant to open up the plant. This method is usually used when the horticulturist wishes to keep the natural shape of the plant. thinning allows more light to reach inner branches so they can develop knew growth more easily"

It did not specify what trees to prune. I may have misunderstood stood.

I do want to remove. (as Brandon said) Dead, diseased, or rubbing branches. when do I do this!

Dead, diseased, or rubbing branches should be removed as soon as they are discovered.

I've read books saying spring or fall but personally I have pruned year round with no ill effects.Some trees bleed sap Maples are the ones I can think of that bleed from cuts, but I,ve pruned oaks, apples, norway spruce and beech when I notice the problem that makes me want to prune in the first place.The ornamental and shade trees should be fine and not need pruning unless there is rot or rubbing branches or you need to correct a structural problem(lost leader, competing leader etc)or to limb up so there will be room under the tree to walk or whatever reason you want to have clearance under the tree.poaky1

Dead, diseased, or rubbing branches is a rule that everyone can agree to.

There are some trees in which the timing is more important as it limits the odds of infestation or disease. For example, Quercus rubra is suseptible to oak wilt...so don't prune this tree during the growing if you don't have to. Same for birches that are suseptible to borers...they bleed and that is an open invitation.

Maples will bleed profusely in spring, so I like pruning them late fall or even during early summer.

Ken,

Only the untrained/unenlightened fruit-tree peeps do things that most trained/enlightened ornamental-tree peeps consider wrong. The other fruit-tree peeps may do things differently than the ornamental-tree peeps might typically do, in order to achieve different results. The techniques used vary because the goals/objectives are different.

====>>>> i had the opportunity to walk thru the local apple orchard this weekend .... as a 'tree' guy .. i was made to be ready to puke.. to see what they did to their apple trees.. in the name of production ...

on the other hand ... some of the most magnificent apples i have ever seen ...

pruning is all about a goal .. as brandon notes ... and tree peeps and fruit peeps obviously have differing goals ...

as to trees or conifers.. which are also trees .... i have two goals...

first.. again as noted.. any crossing, damaged .. etc branches come out ASAP

then ... for trees... they are all pruned up high enough so i can ride the lawn tractor under them .. or so i can walk around the garden w/o poking my eyes out ... and i do it when i walk by with the saw/pruners.. or if the darn tree knocks off my cap.. and i get really mad.. i go get the pruners and do it right then ...

conifers, on the other hand ... are free range in my garden .. left to do what they do.. all by themselves.. and if they do not make me happy ... then i prune them at ground level with malice and aforethought [murder... lol] ... and roundup applied to the cambian if necessary ...

ken

Crown thinning, as your book described, is preferred and beneficial to landscape trees if done correctly. Decreased wind resistance minimizes branch breaking. Wide "scaffold" spacing helps each branch's development by it not having to compete with other branches growing near its collar, etc etc. Just read up on crown thinning in a decent arboriculture website or book and it will explain it. Most trees its recommended to prune just before early spring's growth.

"Crown thinning, as your book described, is preferred and beneficial to landscape trees if done correctly.'

Without caveats (like the established need for such a procedure on the particular tree in question), I don't agree with this very general statement, as written.

Of course, we could always ask for pix ...

Dan

Definitely!

Hey Caleb,

I don't know why no one though to ask for pictures at first. It seems like we're ALWAYS asking for pictures around here, but we dropped the ball this time. Maybe you could post pictures of your ornamentals in this forum and your fruit trees in the Fruit and Orchards Forum. My guess is that it will take at least two to three good pictures of each tree for the pictures to be useful.

Pictures needed yes, forgot about that. And you're right my comment can't be taken too seriously since we don't know the situation at hand. When I should have said was that in my opinion most open grown landscape trees that I have seen would benefit from a proper crown thinning every few years. Obviously can't make a recommendation here though without seeing the trees.

I will post pics!!!!! But I am not sure as how to do it yet! could someone inform me.

Caleb,
wait until the last leaves have fallen from your apple tree, then prune off the excessive shoots.
In the Spring, as the buds begin to swell, you can remove a few more branches/shoots that you missed.

Maples are best pruned in late winter/early spring when the tree is in a quiescent state - no longer
dormant, but not actively growing, either. Watch the buds on your maple, and prune before they begin to
swell. This will minimize any mess associated with rising sap. If you dip the cut tip of a branch into a
cup/container of water after you prune, it will help slow the flow of sap from the wound. In my experience,
however, "bleeding" sap has never been a problem - and I prune my maples throughout the growing season.

Around here, many folk say to prune oaks in the summer and pines in the winter.
The warm, dry weather allows the oak to heal and harden before moisture sets in,
and the cool weather of winter keeps the pines from dripping excessive sap.


Josh

One of the easiest ways to provide your photo to be embedded into a post is to upload it onto an image hosting site such as Photobucket, Flickr, etc. That should be pretty straight forward, and the individual sites will give instructions on how to get your photos uploaded to their site when you sign up.

Once your picture has been uploaded, find its image location address (URL) by right clicking on the image and copying the image location. Some sites may even provide the appropriate HTML code in a text box below the photo for your convenience. It will be the one that begins with a href=...

Let's say, as an example, that the address of the picture you want to post is http://somepicturesite.com/yourpicture.jpg

To embed the picture into a post, use the command:
img src="http://somepicturesite.com/yourpicture.jpg">;
_____________________________________

If your picture is too large to fit nicely into the text page, you can add a width attribute. The command with the width attribute would look something like:
img src="http://somepicturesite.com/yourpicture.jpg"; width=600>
_____________________________________

Another option is to use a text link which might be beneficial to people on slow connections.

To do this, use the command:

a href="http://somepicturesite.com/yourpicture.jpg">your text goes here/a>
_____________________________________

Note that I had to use special characters to get the commands above to show up here without turning into pictures, but you can use them as shown (with the correct image web address, of course).

Hear are some pics of my maple trees... Oak tree and fruit trees not included!!!!!

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If it were me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and I absolutely for some reason had to prune!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! which I don't think you do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'd hire a certified arborist!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 but I don't see the problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 but I'd like to see that fork in the bottom picture and see if there is included bark in any of the crotches!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

Dan

It might not hurt to remove a few small lower limbs on some of the trees for easier access by the lawnmower, but that can be done by anyone with a saw, pruners, and basic pruning knowledge. An adult with a chainsaw might be helpful, but it's hard to tell from the pictures. If you are not sure how to prune (how much of the limb to remove, where to make the cuts, etc), be sure to find out before going further.

As Dan indicated, the fork in the lower picture might indicate a potential for canopy failure, but the house looks like it may be far enough away that immediate danger is minimal. Overall, the trees look healthy and happy as they are.

THANK YOU BRANDON7, you have been a BIG help. I do know were to make cuts and stuff like that. I will read more about it and consider minor pruning.

I think I am set now.