In a controlled environment it should be ok, but i would let them air dry for a week or so before potting. Let the woulds get callused before contacting the soil. If it were me, I'd wait till they were in full growth to do any major root pruning(over 1/4in diameter).

I have a large pachypus the rotted at the base, found it a month ago. It's clean and free of rot but I won't pot it up till March, I want to make sure the cuts are good and dry before have contact with the soil.

Thanks for the reply!

So, the pachypus that rotted is laying outside of soil right now? Must be dormant, correct? I had thought that Opies were pretty rot resistant - what do you think happened with yours?

The tricky thing is that I am not even sure how much root pruning I would need to do, if any. It is a relatively deep bonsai pot, so I may be able to get away with spreading the roots to get it to fit. I hate to disturb the plant thinking that, though, only to find out that I need to do some pruning. Maybe best to wait...

bummer

No plant I know of is rot resistant. Don't know what caused it, but the size of the area I would say it's been like that for while. The way it's healed and if I can find the perfect rock will make an outstanding bonsai subject. I'll post a photo this afternoon.

Now, to totally change the subject - and while I have your attention caudex1 - do you have any experience with Delonix Pumila for bonsai? I am considering picking one up. Most of the ones I see seem to have pruned branch stubs on them. I was wondering if that is because they experience a lot of branch die back in cultivation...

In general, though, do you know how well they respond to bonsai treatment - i.e., pruning, wiring, back budding, root pruning, etc.? Light conditions? Etc.?

Thanks!

don't know about D pumila, but D regia (royal poinciana) is supposedly not able to bloom in a pot and growth is very coarse

x

x -

What exactly do you mean when you say "coarse" growth? I have often heard that expression, and have wondered.

My poor pachypus, it has a 19cm diameter
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As for D.pumila, it's culture is similar to O.pachypus but it's not as cold hardy. Responds nicely to bonsai treatment.

coarse growth means you cannot reduce internode length and leaf size, or increase ramification, with bonsai techniques

Thanks, x.

caudex1 - It is still amazing to me that these plants could have practically no roots, and still retain green growth. That's why this whole "root prune and leave it out of the soil for a week or so" thing still freaks me out a bit. I guess it shouldn't...

When I think about my Pachypus, it does tend to be a bit concave at the soil line - even a bit soft in a few spots there. Perhaps Pachypus has a tendency toward this type of rot, vs. my Decaryi which has pronounced surface roots and flare at the base. I guess I should keep an eye on mine, as well. I keep them both very dry this time of year (water about once a month) but do water them pretty regularly during the summer. Maybe Pachypus should be kept a bit drier? I wonder about Hyphanoides...

Tom,
Got a photo of your plants?

I have not watered any of my Operculicarya(15 plants) since Nov, the species that are leafless are hirsutissimma and borealis. decarya and pachypus have the most foliage, but has not put on any growth. hyphanoides and borealis are not as cold tolerant as as the above mentioned plants.

These will grow year round if it's warm enough, just slower this time of year. A friend that has a nursery waters his during the winter, but he keeps his Opppies warmer than I do, he doesn't let the soil stay too dry for too long.

Here's a few pics of mine, set a bit behind the pots I plan to put them in (that's why the pot will appear a bit too large - IMO - for the trees):

O. Pachypus

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O. Decaryi

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O. Hyphanoides

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Base of O. Pachypus (in the most indented spot, other side not as much):

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Base of O. Decaryi:

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Nice plants!

Yeah, pot is too deep and could be a bit wider. Something to try, use a shallow wider pot and build up the depth you need with rockery, this way you won't need to root prune much if any. This is what I plan on doing with the pachypus that rotted, so the newly exposed area won't come in contact with the moist soil.

Caudex -

Actually, the pots look like the wrong size for the plants because of the way I took the photo (the pots are closer to the camera than the plant). I think they are going to make a real nice fit when they are actually potted up in them. Just too anxious to get them in there...

As I said in the beginning of this thread, my Pachypus is starting to show some green buds. I suppose if I could get it in the pot without disturbing the roots too much, it would be okay (for example, if I were to purchase a plant now from any of the nurseries it would most likely be shipped to me bare root, so it is kinda the same thing - without the shipping stress!). But, maybe I should wait a bit longer.

You could repot now, but probably safer to wait.

Hello all,

I have had this wonderful (and beloved) Operculicarya pachypus for 8 years. It didn't wake up last spring. I took it out of its pot, found root problems, cleaned them up, dusted with sulfur powder, let it dry, and replanted in very well-drained medium.

This spring, it is looking even worse. I would be sincerely grateful for any advice about encouraging the production of new roots. At this point, I don't know what do do, or if my friend is beyond all hope.

Many thanks,

Blanca (in California)

In happier times... Sorry that the photo is sideways.