Being new to gardening, the best thing you can do is hire a professional designer to design your garden. Most good garden centres have a designer on staff or can recommend one. Planning for size, sun, soil, moisture is the most critical thing and you will likely save the cost of the design in mistakes prevented.

The second best thing is to build your soil. New houses often have a very thin layer of topsoil and it will settle over the next year. Once you know where the beds will be (landscape plan), you can add compost to them in preparation for planting. Planting can be done in September as there are still two months til the ground freezes and the plant roots will get established.

The worst thing you can do is run around to nurseries in August buying up cheap leftovers and plopping them into unprepared ground any old place on your property. You will end up buying the wrong plant for the wrong place because it was a bargain and a few years from now will taking it out because it failed to grow or grew too big.

Generally, the first things to do are the deck, fences, walkways and other hard surfaces, then plant trees, then shrubs then perennials. Do it in this order because the hard surfaces will determine the placement of other elements and trees take longest to grow.

If you have a plan, you will avoid planting a tree in the spot where the fence or walkway should be or planting perennials where the trees should be. It saves a lot of later grief.

Between no

I don't care for professional landscaping for a number of reasons. But if you find plants that fit in your plans, by all means go ahead and plant in fall. I have gotten great deals that way, a little cleaning up, good soil and mulch for the winter... and the next year they look just like the full priced plants. They don't have to battle the heat of summer, and you don't have to babysit them with the hose either. Just be sure they get adequate water the following spring and summer.

I agree with a bit of both of the above :)
I wouldn't bother with the designer because the absolute best part of going from 'newbie' to where I am now (not-so-newbie) was the learning process which included, of course, the mistakes I made along the way.
But this is MY garden, and MY mistakes and MY creation. Using a designer, for me, would be like hiring someone to raise your kids. My gardens may not be perfect but when they look good, I can be proud of ME, not my designer :)

It is absolutely true that you should spend some time and budget on improving your soil, after you figure out where your hardscape is (patios, traffic areas, fences, gates etc) and any trees and other hard-to-move things. Your soil is the single most important piece of your garden and it's much easier to get that sorted out BEFORE you start planting.
So figure out where your beds are going to be, order up some good triple-mix (loam, compost, sand). Then add more compost. Start a composter while you're at it. Don't bother putting down a lawn until you put in lots of beds. Lawns are overrated unless you need to play frisbee.
You'll probably be too busy with your new place to really get out into the garden, anyway. If you can get the soil in good shape by the spring, you'll have accomplished a lot already.

By all means, buy the plants you like while they are on sale. But buy them because they appeal to you, not because they are on sale. Make sure they are healthy - a lot of "sale" items are pretty tired by the end of the season. Scraggly and heat-stressed is fine, bugs and disease is not. Plunk them in, knowing you'll likely move them again in the spring. (Make sure to tease apart the roots and soak them well - late-season plants can be root-bound. Use a handful of bonemeal in the hole when planting)
You'll get a jump on next season at a good price. I got five single-stemmed but sturdy veronica for a buck each last fall and they look absolutely fantastic now.

I would recommend that you read up on the plants you want to buy, though. I've wasted a lot of money on buying things that looked good on the plant tag, only to find later that they are invasive, or too needy, or just not what I was looking for. Be aware of where your sun and shade are and what your challenges are (squirrels, tree roots, damp areas, slopes) so that you can work with these things, not against them.

Don't bother with bulbs until you know a bed isn't going to be dug up again, or changed around. I put those in last when creating a new bed.

Take time over the winter to read about gardening. Then join the rest of the addicts right here in these forums :)

Thanks that does help. I actually had some landscape ideas in mind already, and have been reading up a lot so will probably do it myself. However we will get someone to put the lawn in our backyard which has some big conifer trees that need pruning so intend to get his general advice on landscaping the backyard since that area will not be getting a whole lot of sun.

The front of the house faces the east, and i plan to put in a couple of holly bushes, a few chrysanthemums. On the South side I plan to put in some canna, iris and tulip bulbs. I may put in a hydrangea and a burning bush at the corners. Also perhaps a lilac bush. (all of the bulbs I will be getting from my friends gardens tht need some clearing) I am not certain yet what to plant on the north side of the house. I was planning a trellis on the North East side of the house off the porch for a climbing rose (blaze they look rather pretty). But for the north side in general I have no plan yet, so suggestions for that would be helpful. I may leave a garden patch on the South west corner of the house for a herb/tomato garden.

I would really appreciate suggestions for the north and west side of the house. As for the porch and the patio they will already be in place when we get the house so it will not be something that comes up later. The only plan we have is to put in a pergola over the patio (north west side of the house) but that should not interfere with the garden landscaping in general since the patio will be in place.

I was wondering what the difference between putting stones in a landscape bed versus mulch in a landscape is. I personally find mulch neater, but is stone better for any particular reason?

Thanks!

I was in the same situation last year. New house, no landscaping. I went ahead and started buying from the $1 tables towards the end of summer. Everything came back and is growing like mad! But they did make a good point about not having good topsoil after building a new house. I added topsoil and compost the the beds, but we're still having trouble growing grass. All the so called "topsoil" (i think the builders got it backwards here, backfilled the house w/ the topsoil, and spread sand everywhere else) anyways, the topsoil quickly washes down and all the rocks and gravel left underneath start to surface. So if you want to make it a little easier on yourself, bring in some extra new topsoil.

Sounds like you've got it figured out. I agree with your last responder to prepping soil and determining where your "hardscaping" is going to go. These are the determinants for location/positioning of everything else. I may be attacked by some for saying this, but go ahead and start some of your planting of trees and larger stuff now. It's such a boost to actually get some stuff going. Yes, fall is the best for planting, especially if your transplanting, but I'm assuiming you'll be purchasing potted or Balled and Burlaped (B&B) trees. Keep them well watered and try to do it on a day that's not 97 degrees, but landscaping companies and individuals plant all year long, you'll be fine.
As to stone vs mulch, I definitely think you should use mulch. The mulch retains moisture for your plants and decomposes year round to provide some nutrient for them as well. Stone has a nice formal look and can still be used in specialty areas but it's overpowering in it's appearance and many plants don't do as well in it. I'd use it sparingly, or simply as a "maintenance strip" around your foundation should you need better drainage, protection from water off the roof, or a place to drag hoses around. Now, having said that, I love the appearance of daylilies and some other perennials planted in stone.

Thanks all those tips are useful.

How many inches of top soil should I add to the beds? And how many inches of mulch?
And are there any plant & shrub suggestions that you could suggest based on the sun exposure & location i.e North, South, East, West? I am having to go to nurseries and investigate to figure out what does well where etc. So any suggestions would be useful. I am not putting in any big trees right now since we have some huge conifers (pine i think) in the back yard already.

Thanks!

one important thing to do first-is mark your property line corners, or any odd angle point. I used wolmanized 2x4's and put birdhouse on them, so they didn't look so funny. On the one near the utility boxes I drew an arrow on the utility box and wrote on it "45 inches" to show where the stake is buried. On the other side in the front, I planted a seedling rose of Sharon--if it lives and doesn't get run over by either husband, I'm in good shape. There are more problems with neighbors when respect for each others properties is ignored.

With those evergreens in the back you can look at some great acid loving stuff: Azalea and Rhododendron (Catawaba). I'm jealous! :-)

Oh thts interesting....I had no idea pines are acid loving evergreens.....well thts good to know since I do like azaleas.

I was thinking lily of the valley and some hostas for the north side of the house.....

Be careful with the Lily of the vally. I hate the stuff. Once you get it, you got it for life, it seems. And it takes over the entire area. Hostas are wonderful for shaded areas, BUT beware of the L O T V they will out grow your hostas and every thing else you have in the bed. IF it is a must have for you, may I suggest that you plant it in a strong burried container, to control it. I rate it right up there with those darn purple violets and snow on the mountain. GET OUT THE ROUND UP. :-)

Thanks, maybe I will stay away from the lily of the valley if it is invasive....i got some hosta bulbs on discount yesterday. Was wondering if August will be a good time to put them into the ground and mulch them or should I wait till next spring to do it? Also I saw some astilbe bulbs...do they make good shade plants too? Any suggestions on how to combine the 2 plants?

Thanks!

I don't understand what you mean re: hosta and astilbe bulbs. They don't grow from bulbs. They do form crowns with roots coming outwards from them.. They need to be planted asap. It wouldn't hurt to soak them overnight in a bucket of water to rehydrate them. If they have completely dried out, the chances of them growing are low. Lily of the Valley is invasive, but sometimes they can be contained in a bed that is completely surrounded by cement, asphalt or whatever. As wannabe said, plant them in a stout container. They do smell wonderful in the Spring and have charming little bell flowers.
Something else to consider. If they were purchased from one of the big box stores, don't be surprised if what grows looks nothing like what is pictured or named.

Well I guess they are crowns that I bought from the store. and they are from a box....should I be buying hostas already growing in a pot? I wont have my garden till august and hence I was wondering if its ok to keep these boxed ones in storage till I can plant it then....plus the frost will hit perhaps 2 - 3 months frm august...so was wondering if I made a wise choice in buying these crowns.

It might be best to pot them up until you can put them into a more permanent spot. There is still time to plant them then and have them grow a root system before they go dormant for the winter. I live in the North and have overwintered hostas in pots that were well mulched with leaves.
When you take them out of the box, check out the roots for any signs of decay, trim if necessary. You should see signs of life within 2 weeks of potting up. I have purchased boxed plants with success, not always, but usually. LOL
Astilbe and hosta are shade plants, both enjoy ample moisture and good drainage.
Another option would be to start a "nursery" in an out of the way spot in your yard. A small spot would be simpler to prepare and maintain.

So if i understand correctly.....I cannot plant them in the ground in August and expect them to survive till next spring even if I mulch them?

Hi Roy,

I responded to a different post of yours. Now that I have more "back story" I'll adjust a bit of what I said...

I agree with granny, pot up your starters ("bulbs") in pots now. That way you'll have a head start when you can get in and dig. I reviewed what I've written and realize I'm kind of long winded, please feel free to skim if you get bored. Otherwise, I suggest you grab a cup of coffee or tea ;^)

As for top soil, whew, it can get pricy (not what you need on top of the cost of setting up a new home). If you have access to a pick up truck call your town (city, whatever) and see if they have compost available to residents. If they do, great!! If they don't, you might ask them if a neighboring town does. Some places will allow nonresidents access for a nominal fee.

Anyway, if you have access to municipal compost that's a great way to enrich/ammend your soil without breaking the bank. One word of caution when it comes to municipal compost... you have no idea what's gone into it or how well it's been "cooked". (As part of the composting processs the internal temp of the pile needs to get high enough to kill off noxious seeds and roots. Basically cooking them.) You may get some not so nice surprises next spring if material survives and starts to sprout. Anyway, if you go that route you'll want to get a good truckload. Plan on a minimum of 3-4 inches of compost spread over your garden beds to be worked into the existing soil. I have issues with gas powered garden machines but a rototiller can be very helpful if you've got a lot of soil to prepare. Check around for rentals in your area. (A tip, because they usually rent by the day/half-day, don't rent the tiller until you've put out your compost and are ready to grind it all together.) Work from close to the house going outward that way you aren't walking on the freshly tilled soil.

Hmmm, some other thoughts on new construction landscape...

Even though you may be tempted to save yourself a bit of lugging DO NOT drive over your lawn to dump material near your gardens. Sounds simple I know but hey, you see the workers driving their trucks all over the place right? The thing is, when they finish filling and leveling your lot the soil will be rather loose. It can take a good season of rain/snow/whatever to get the soil to settle and work out some of the larger pockets beneath the surface. One trip across it with a vehicle and you're likely to have big ole ruts in your yard.

Not sure if you're getting a house in a new development or an infill house that you're building to spec. Either way, if part of your contract includes filling in top soil you might check with the contractor to see where he's getting it. If possible see if you can inspect it before it goes in. It should be fairly dark and "crumbly". Grab a handful and squeeze it together. It should make a ball that you can easily break apart with your thumb. If it's loaded with rocks/stones/pebbles, doesn't hold together or becomes a brick when you squeeze it contact the GC and let him/her know there's a quality issue. My feeling is if you're paying for top soil you should be getting top soil not some 2nd rate fill. (Go to a nursery that sells bulk topsoil and check it out. You'll see pretty quickly what I mean.) Ultimately, of course, it's up to your descretion and your relationship with the builder/contractor.

A few words about sod... Roll roll roll roll. WATER. WATER. WATER. WATER. Grow grow grow.

Here's my experience from watching the 2 houses go up across the street from me. Your sod will go down at just about the worst time for growing grass. Lots of heat and often little water. Many grasses go dormant in the heat of high summer, that's the beige strawlike look you see lawns get in Aug. Established, healthy lawns with nice deep roots do this and, generally speaking, bounce back when moisture levels and temps become more to their liking. "Hibernating" is how grass survives drought.

New sod is a totally different critter. Think of it as laying a rug on a wood floor. The rug is only as deep as the pile and backing. Pour a glass of water on the rug and the rug gets wet and generally a lot of the water spreads sideways. That rug is your sod and the fill dirt under it is the wood floor.

Sooooo, back to the words about your new sod...

Rolling... running a garden roller (basically a weighted drum on its side) over the newly laid sod firms it down against the soil below. This creates better contact between the sod and the soil below, allowing the roots from the sod to reach down easier.

Water... Water your sod daily (if not possible then at least every other day) and water it deeply!!! Remember the rug image? Well, you want to soak the rug AND the floor underneath the rug. At this stage of the game it's all about soaking the floor. The sun will dry out the "rug" so you want the earth below to remain moist so the roots will move downward to get to the water.

Grow? Yes! Mow? No! Well, not too much anyway. ;^)

Think about how good it feels to walk under the shade of a big ole tree in August. Now, think of your grass as bazillions of little trees. Short trees = less shade = more heat = less comfort. Short grass = less shade = more heat = stressed roots. A gorgeous diamond patterned golf course-like lawn may be the fashion but it can be pure misery for newly laid sod. Give yourself and your grass a break and keep it a bit taller for the first couple of years. You'll mow less and your grass will settle in better. Once it's established you can decide on the final height you're comfortable with.

I think it's always best to do some research and get multiple opinions. Read up as much as you can and spend a bit of time visiting nurseries asking questions. Try not to do it when they are jammed with customers and they'll generally be happy to talk plants with you.

And now for the legal disclaimer... I'm no expert and all advice is offered without guarantee of success. I'm just a guy who likes to dig in the dirt. :-)

Cheers and happy landscaping

ditaroy:

Yes, you can put plants in the ground in August and they'll make enough roots to overwinter. What you CAN'T do is leave them in a box until August. That's why I suggest potting them up. Or a temp. nursery. Then when your more permanent garden spot is ready, you can plant them in it.

Thanks all that info is really useful! Do any of you have pictures of what your garden looks like?