Good info Dave! I've got one too, the gauge is tilted and we couldn't get a good reading when I had it tested last summer (so I haven't used it). I was afraid we'd have to remove it to put the weight set on. Is the petcock as hard to remove as the dial is (haven't tried but sure seems tight and I don't want to break mine either)?

Thanks Dave! If this was your canner, would you use the petcock or get a new weight gauge? I'm still not that experienced with pressure canning, but know that the weights are more accurate than dial gauges. I'm sure this one has not been tested in a very long time :)

If this was my canner I would most definitely eliminate the petcock and replace it with the weight. It should not be that hard to get off and yes it will take vise grips/channel locks/etc. If the WD40 doesn't loosen them then pick up a can of Kroil which unlocks frozen nuts and bolts and follow directions on the label.

Before I invested any money in it at all tho I would first do a couple of practice runs with just water yo see what other problems it may have like leaks, warping, etc.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Kroil

ekgrows - did you get yours modified? I had emailed customer service 3 years ago, they referred me to a website for ordering parts but now I see the new ones have a safety valve, I don't know if they can modify the lid to add that, looks like it might be less expensive to buy a new lid with everything included.

New lid is $75, new lid with everything installed is $135 (and you get a new handle too), the parts add up to about $45 and I know shipping will be more than $15, even if they would drill a hole for the pressure relief valve if you sent it to them.

Do you have a glass top stove?

Edited after looking at prices of individual parts

Here is a link that might be useful: AA Replacement lids

This post was edited by ajsmama on Sat, Aug 10, 13 at 17:53

Mine looks the same except for the dial face - it's white. Here's a pic of the underside, no overpressure relief valve that I can see. Just the gauge and petcock and 2 bumps where the handle (Bakelite, not wood, so it's not super old) is attached.

Then it is your choice whether to use or not. Many probably do.

Personally I would have it drilled for an over pressure plug. Any machine shop can do it for you (take the plug itself with you to them) for a minimal fee.

But I sure wouldn't spend $75 for a new lid when I can get a whole new Presto canner and the weights for less than that.

JMO

Dave

That's $75 plus about $45 for the plug, the valve, the weight and the gauge (so better to spend the $135 to get it already assembled). The $75 option is JUST the lid with the holes (not even a handle).

The only reason I would even consider $135 for a new lid vs $74 for a Presto is that AA is sturdier, and no gasket to keep replacing. $61 will buy 6 gaskets - do you replace them each year?

Again, lots of gasket discussions here in the past and no they are very seldom replaced. As to the AA being "sturdier" that is debatable and just a matter of opinion. Several of us here have both for comparison and yet every time the question comes up it is the Presto that gets recommended.

Sheila I've replaced 1 gasket on the 3 pressure canners that I have, and really did not need it. You might have replace the gasket every 10 years if then.

I looked up the old discussions and some people have used a 23 qt on the glass top range so I will try that first. I'd really like the taller one so that I can BWB quarts and pint-and-a-half jar in it, the stockpot I use as a BWB is just a tiny bit too short, it's hard to keep the jars covered b/c water splashes out as it boils when I fill it that full. It would be nice to have 1 canner that will work for both, then I can free up some storage space.

I now have a 22 and 23 qt. Love both of them. Only bringing the 16 out when don't plan on having more than 8 pints or 7 qts. I say 8 pints because of wide mouth pints, only 8 will fit. Happens very rarely.

I'll probably hand the smaller PCs down to my son's families for them to begin with.

I was given an All American canner by a friend. It looks very similar to the one featured above. That and other research leads me to believe its a model 7. I also have a Mirro 0406 from the same source. How do I test the over pressure plugs?

" How do I test the over pressure plugs?"

Many of the old models, including the one in the photo above, do not have an over-pressure plug. They only have the gauge socket plug and the petcock and depend on them to burst if dangerous pressures are reached.

So you cannot "test" them. Instead you replace them with the current models of gauge with comes with a new seal and the petcock is replaced with a new vent pipe, gasket, and weight.

http://www.allamericancanner.com/allamericanpressurecannerparts.htm

Dave

PS: if your model does happen to have the small black rubber over-pressure plug then replace it with a new one.

does any one know where I can get a replacement handle like the one in the picture on the first post (the medal one with plastic around it) here I replaced it once with the black plastic one and it broke again I threw the original one away I could have made it out of wood (hindsight)

Not unless you can find an old canner sold just for parts and take the handle off it. Otherwise the bakelite black plastic ones are all that have been available for decades. You see the old ones for sale on ebay all the time but they still want a mint for them.

If i just needed the handle pattern to make one out of wood I'd visit an antique shop with one for sale, take a close up photo of the handle and do a few measurements with a tape.

http://www.pressurecooker-outlet.com/pics/Old-All-American-921-Lid-Petcock.gif

Dave

I've been given this same canner and told it is an All American, but it has no name on the lid and just 151/2 quarts on the bottom of the pot. Could it still be an All American?

Do you mean it looks exactly like the one pictured in this post? No way to tell for sure without seeing it or at least seeing some detailed photos of it. AA does make a 15-16 qt model and the multiple lid clamps around the top are unique to AA.

Dave

Yep that is an old AA. Will need some work before using - replace the petcock with a weight and have the gauge tested at least.

Dave

Thank you so much!

One more question. Where do I get a new one? Thank you!

Are you looking for this sort of thing? Amazon.com: all american pressure canner - ... ALL AMERICAN PRESSURE CANNER BRAND NEW IN BOX MODEL 915AUTHORIZED DEALER ...

Others at that page too.

dm

A new canner or new parts?Most all parts are available at http://www.allamericancanner.com/allamericanpressurecannerparts.htm and several other sources online. Your model number if Mdl. 915.

You can have the gauge tested at your local county ag extension office (call first) or you will need to buy a new one. The petcock valve is replaced with a new vent pipe and a one piece adjustable 5-10-15 lb weight.

Installation can be a problem if you have no experience with pressure canning so if not find someone who can show you how to do it. Then you will need to do a couple of test runs using water only to insure everything is working correctly and there are no leaks. Also make sure the canning rack is in the pot.

There should also be an over-pressure safety plug on the lid (small round brass or black disk) that need to be replaced too for safety.

Dave

I just received a vintage AA canner from ebay. I was going to do a vinegar rinse & test but found that the lid wobbles and does not seat properly. Now What? can I have the lid machined to fit flat? are there any other options, I don't have a lot of money to waste. Thanks Fran

Your best option would be to return it for a refund. I'd even insist on eBay's support in returning it as damaged and not as described if the seller doesn't cooperate. Beyond that there is nothing that can be done with a warped canner to insure its safe use.

The problem that doesn't allow it to seat properly could be in the base OR the lid or even in the locking mechanisms and replacing any of those parts still couldn't provide any safe use guarantee for you as the user or for the food processed in it.

Dave

Please help! I’ve never used a canner with a petcock. After placing my jars in the canner and attaching the lid do I leave the petcock up in an upright position until steam flows through it or leave it in the closed position which is horizontal

Daves comment was in the second post of this thread:

To the right of the handle is what is called a "petcock". It was the original pressure relief valve and has since been replaced by the weight. You left it open - flipped up - to let the canner vent till you had a good head of steam (10 min. is the recommended length of time) and then flipped it down/closed to let the pressure build. The only way to monitor the pressure was the gauge and you could only raise/lower the pressure by reducing/increasing the heat.

Do valves for the AA come in different sizes? I just took off the petcock and replaced it with a new valve and weight but it didn't screw in all the way. It was real tight and is not flush with the top of the canner but I don't think it will ever come off. What do you think?

The "petcock on my AA will screw off. Will the new part screw on to that same post?

I have one of those canner. Had it for 40 years. The gauge doesn’t come off and do not soak it in water. The other is the pressure valve call a pepcock

once your canning is in the cooker close the lid, secure all the clamps .with not to much water in the canner get the heat on. The pepcock should be open (straight up)to let the air escape once the steam start close the valve . And process as usual. Once the process is done , let it cool. Or if you open the valve, the steam will espace and so will the liquid in you jars.. not a good idea .. unless you do it very slowly and in increments.good luck.

I recently inherited my grandmothers AA no.7 canner. This is the same as pictured above and does not have the safety release plug at all in the lid. If I were to purchase a new lid with all the parts, which one would be the proper one to purchase.? From the measurements I am guessing that the 915 lid would work.

https://allamerican1930.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/147722_final.pdf

Here's the owners manual for AA canners. I found it helpful with the ancient one I was given.

i bought a second hand AA (at least i think it is, though it doesnt say that anywhere, it has the 4 clamps unique to AA). it had the petcock on it so i bought the new release valve and weight from AA, and keeping the gauge as is. My question is about the safety valve. mine had a metal hexagon ’screw’ with a hole through it (see picture). when you look through the hole you cant see through it though, there seems to be something part way through (though the hole is still present on the inside of the lid if that makes sense). I thought i could just take it off and replace it with the new black safety plug from AA but the opening would be too small. is it already a safety plug? and if so, is it good enough to use as is? or what should be done with it? thank you for your help!

NomadicJoy. I'm pretty sure its it's a safety valve with a thin metal burst disk. I have the same style lid. Did you find any additional info about it?

NomadicJoy

i know this is an older thread but let me share something i found about these hex overpressure plugs. Knowing what i know now, i like them better than the rubber ones that need to be replaced periodically.

here is what the article said:

In 1975, the No. 75 Excess Pressure Release Plug (hexagon-shaped nut) was replaced with the No. 2040 Overpressure Plug. The No. 75 Excess Pressure Release Plug has a lead pellet inside of it which will melt out at approximately 28 PSI. If the lead pellet is still in place (you will not be able to see through the part), then it is still useable. The No. 2040 Overpressure Plug cannot be purchased to replace the No. 75 Excess Pressure Release Plug because No. 2040 fits into a machined opening, and No. 75 fits into a threaded opening. If your No. 75 Excess Pressure Release Plug has melted out, then you must either purchase a new cover, or if you still have the No. 65 Control Valve (spring-loaded part with a "flipper" that lifts up and down), you can move the control valve to the

75 Excess Pressure Release Plug, The No 65 Control Valve will then almove he need with the

opening for the No. 75 Excess Pressure Release Plug. The No. 65 Control Valve will then always be used with the ”flipper" down, and it will automatically release should your pressure reach approximately 23 PSI. You will then have to order our No. 69 Vent Pipe to fit into the opening for the No. 65 Control Valve (see next paragraph) and Part No. 68 Pressure Regulator Weight. The No. 69 Vent Pipe will not work in the opening for the No. 75 Excess Pressure Release Plug.

i hope that helps