Veronica wouldn't do, weeds will grow up right through it, unless the soil is so dry that the seeds wouldn't germinate.

You could try Buddleija davidii, the butterfly bush. It likes dry areas, is semi-evergreen, grows fast, will shade out weeds, and has beautiful and fragrant flowers, that come in a wide range of colors, from mid to late summer. The only problem with it is like Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buddleja) says it will freeze out at -15º C, 5ºF, which for my experience is true. During the 1983, 89, 90, and 98 freezes that got down to that level I lost my plants. They didn't return from the roots. But they do grow fast so can be replaced.

If you don't like that, and for that small space, dig out the soil and replace it will course sand and gravel to plant yuccas, agave, and cactus. You will be surprised at the number of those plants that can live in the northwest if they have fast draining soils.

Butterfly bush has recently hit local noxious weed lists, as it is a freely seeding, aggressively growing invader, adaptable to very wide range of growing conditions. It also becomes a scraggly looking, rangy plant very quickly and not something that makes a very attractive focal point to a very visible planting bed. And a 2 foot width is insufficient to accommodate its size, as well.

There are scores of sun loving perennials that would fit the bill, as well as small shrubs. Lavender, heaths or heathers, sunroses, lithodora, groundcover hebes would all work and be evergreen to boot. Ths is not a large area, nor is it very wide so I'd stick to smaller, spreading plants and only few different types. All you need is something that will cover the ground well to smother out the weeds. Weeding well before planting and mulching after planting will also help to keep weeds to a minimum while the new plants establish. Herbaceous plants like the veronica that die back to the ground seasonally are not going to be as effective as a plant that has a year round presence. Weeds grow in winter, too!

And with the plethora of retail nurseries and garden centers in this area that offer virtually every plant imaginable, I find it really unnecessary to order basic common stuff from any mail order source, especialy one that will be shipping it all the way across the country. What's the point?

Yes, you have to get rid of the weeds before planting anyway, so what you plant will be determined by the other factors involved.

Thank you issafish ,gardengal and bboy.

Your suggestions make a lot of sense.
Lavender, hebe sound really good to me.

Lavender and hebe both need really good drainage. If the weeds are growing well, you may have too much moisture for these plants.

Daphne in Tacoma

Daphne, I think you are underestimating the resiliency of most weed species:-) One of the reason many get classified as weeds is their ability to seed and grow under some of the most unfavorable of conditions including very dry or very freely draining soils, as well as low fertility, compacted, damp or boggy soils. The presence of weed growth is not necessarily an indicator of too much moisture, but rather just of bare, untended ground.

The largest majority of plants prefer good drainage - as long as the soil drains adequately, lavender and hebes will be just as happy as most other plants.

I have lavender, hebes, caryopteris, perovskia along my curb which faces south. Ornamental grasses and various perennials are mixed in.

I had similar problem in one area of my garden , constantly weeding.What I did may surprise you , but it works like charm.I planted strawberries and after a couple of years I see no weeds.The strawberries are eaten by slugs and I don't mind that.That way they don't go after other things in my garden.The strawberries will cover it nicely with time.You have to spend some time initially to help them get established and after that no work whatsover.Easy to control the size ( they spread out, but easily controlled) Works for me nicely, never pulling weeds in that area..and believe me it was always difficult to control...