Waiting would be better. Unless you want to water them everyday. I have had success when I watered everyday with plants that were in pots that I planted, but the ones I dug up to transplant didn't make it even with lots of water. There is a greater risk of loosing them when it's this hot. Earlier this spring, just before it got hot we transplanted some larger bushes and none of them made it.

Many people don't logically think-through the details and get confused about this stuff.

Autumn is one of the best transplanting seasons, UNLESS, the plant is small enough to get the entire root system, which is possible with shrubs, perennials and some small trees. And provided that you can water.

My choice is to wait for fall, but a few weeks ago, I was offered a 16' tall Himalayan birch, and it was going to be discarded or saved. I move it home, and had to settle for a bit smaller rootball than preferred, with only myself to move the tree. Anyway, half the lower leaves shed, but the rest are fine. I'm watering it lightly daily, and new roots are growing. So its possible, but aside from exceptions like this, I'd save that kind of transplant for autumn.

Now, tree from the nursery, whole different ball game...

What's the difference between a nursery watering a tree or plant in a pot, and you watering the same thing at home in the ground? If they can water, why can't you water?

If you can suppply the water it needs, what difference does it make, if you want some extra green now?

You won't see a lot of growth in summer. Just a teeny bit of root growth until autumn when the root growth accelerates.

I see no problems with summer planting, as long as the needed water can be supplied - just like a nursery would do.

In fact, the rootball stored in shaded ground at your home, is probably better off than a black pot or burlap rootball sitting up in the warm air, sunlight, or partly exposed.

If you search, I've got a whole page online about transplanting. So far, I can remember loosing a transplant. The most challenging for survival, was a 20' tall or so, weeping giant sequioa that I had to move across Portland BARE ROOT in 85 degree weather, from Troutdale east, to Beaverton west. Had to cable it in place and make mud out of its soil to squish it between the bare roots. Used anti-dessicant spray too.

Early fall is optimal as nutrient levels in plants will be high, weather will be cooling, rainfall will be increasing, soils are warm, and roots will be elongating - the most such growth they make out of the whole year. However, if roots are discovered to be deformed (circling, j-rooted, kinked) at planting and some are cut, those may not grow much until following year, when new roots appear from cut ends in spring).

I'm in a similar boat - we're landscaping a new house. I have a half dozen trees that I purchased last fall thinking I'd be able to plant them then (and couldn't). The balled and burlapped trees, I'm going to go ahead and plant - they've been heeled in and doing fine. I have two Japanese maples that are fairly large in containers. I'm going to hold off until they go dormant - don't want to risk them. I've been planting perennials and they seem fine. So far, my only worry are some Barbary plants. Even though I'm keeping them watered, the lower leaves are drying up and falling off.

Thank you so much for you feedback guys. I really am betwixt and between about this.

If anything, i'm guilty of overwatering my plants, so much so that hubby got me a little moisture meter i can stick in the ground to see how thirsty a plant might really be. So i don't think keeping them watered will be my issue.

I may just take a leap of faith and do it ... it would be one thing if they were thriving under the deck, but i'm getting the feeling they really do need to be out in the sunshine ...

Although it's not an optimum time, planting now is certainly not "taboo". Scores of new landscapes get planted throughout the summer months - were they to wait until an ideal time, there'd be a lot of landscape contractors and nurseries out of business :-) As indicated in several of the posts above, as long as attention is given to watering needs and you apply some basic common sense (avoid days when the temps climb to the 90's or in the heat of midday), you should be able to plant pretty much anything. Transplanting - moving an established plant from one inground situation to another - or dividing is something that is best left to the cooler temperatures and damper conditions of fall.

It's been my experience that plants will be happier in the ground than to try and maintain them successfully in nursery containers during the dry, hot portions of our summers.

We had to plant 4 plum trees (Thundercloud, to be specific) and a Japanese maple in the middle of July or August last year when it was 90 degrees and sunny! It was the only time we could do it, and I have to admit that we were terrified. But they did just fine. Before that, they had been sitting in their nursery pots and would drop leaves and scald really easily, but after planting, they immediately perked up. We gave them super deep waterings 2 or 3 times a week, and continue to do so again this year, and while they did not explode with new growth last year, they certainly are now!

Super good luck to you, and tell us how it goes!

Thank you so much, you guys! I appreciate the words of wisdom, encouragement, and well-wishes ...

Xantippe, you've characterized my state of mind and my circumstances perfectly. I'm so thrilled things worked out for you!

estreya, the weather forecast looks fantastic for the next several days (in Portland at least)--cool and possibly even rainy! Much, much better than when we planted. Best of luck.

Thank you, Xantippe! I hope to have everything planted up by the week's end. Blisters, blisters, blisters! :)

I plant and dig up and move when I have time and that includes summer. Easier to keep those spring sale purchases watered in the ground than in the pots......sometimes I need DH to dig up and move big plants and have to take his help when I can get it.....

>It's been my experience that plants will be happier in the ground than to try and maintain them successfully in nursery containers during the dry, hot portions of our summersDuring hot summer weather small pots may reach 150 degrees on the south side, when exposed to the sun, killing part of the root system. And many plants are grown by producers or potted by retailers in coarse mixtures that dry quickly, making keeping them moist during summer quite a chore.

The two most stressful times are coldest part of winter and hottest part of summer. Here most months other than January or July are better for transporting, storing and planting new plants.

Xantippe ... if you're out there, may i ask if you amended your planting holes? And did you water them in with rooting hormone?

I was going to put 30% compost in the holes, as is recommended by the nursery. But as it turns out, there's a school of thought that this creates a "container effect," where the roots just stop rather than pass into an unamended area.

Honestly, i had no idea planting techniques could be so controversial! :) There's so many different opinions about the best way to approach the nuances ...

Landscapers plant all year long. If planted now the customer has to water them for the rest of the summer. If you leave them in pots you have to water more frequently and keep a closer eye on them. I say, the sooner you get them in the ground, the better. Roots grow in the summer too. Besides, it gives you a chance to look at the rootball if you haven't already so you can correct any problems. I almost always check out the rootball at a nursery before buying. I learned the hard way.

The roots "choosing" the hole thing is what everyone seems to have picked up on but is not what happens. The main point is that the liberally amended planting hole often collects water during wet conditions and sheds it during dry. This may have a stunting effect on new plants until they root into the unmodified soil beyond the planting hole, something that happens pretty fast if they are in good condition before planting (poor quality stock dawdles or dies whether there is amended backfill to cope with or not). Undisturbed field soil rootballs or roots sitting in potting soil have similar problems, if the soil around them is not of similar texture.

Estreya, yup I'm still here!

Here's a (very long) rundown of what I did. I did this process after talking to several nurseries, talking to my mom who is an avid gardener, and reading a bunch of books. It may not be what everyone advises (I'm sure someone out there has other methods!), but it worked brilliantly for us.

First, I soaked the tree in it nursery pot in a big bin of water for an hour or two to make sure it was really REALLY hydrated. Meanwhile, my poor husband dug a super big hole, putting the dirt he dug out into a wheelbarrow. Into this wheelbarrow I added some "good" soil. Our "good soil" was Miracle Grow Tree and Shrub Soil since we were in a hurry and didn't have time to make a custom blend, but I'm sure you could be more foofy with your blend if you want! I would say the ratio was about 2/3 regular garden soil to 1/3 Miracle Grow soil. I mixed everything super well, making sure to water the Miracle Grow soil properly since it was bone dry.

Now, back to the hole for the tree. In the very bottom of the hole, I made a mound for the tree to rest on. You can see how to do this in any good tree book. This helps the tree get good drainage. Then I put the tree in, checking one last time to make sure the tree was at the correct height, and then started backfilling with the soil mixture. I did not tamp the soil down with a shovel. Instead, I used water from a hose, which washes the soil down evenly, preventing air pockets. Then I would add more soil, water it in, add more soil, and etc. It took a ton of soil and a ton of water, too! But it really worked. Those trees did not settle at all. They stayed exactly as planted. So be slow and careful with this stage. It's worth it!

Finally, we made a watering ring about four feet in diameter using the last of the soil, and gave the tree one last drink. And then I gave it a good serving of Miracle Gro Quick Start Transplant Solution. I use this on everything I plant, and it really seems to help when planting in the heat of summer. Things may wilt for an hour or two after planting, and then they are fine!

I used to use organic everything, but the Miracle Grow stuff just is amazing. I love it.

As for watering, I give each tree half an hour with the hose (just lay the hose down and walk away) two times a week minimum. You can buy plastic watering rings, but I was pretty sure these would be stolen since I live in PDX.

I know this is a lot more info than you asked for, but I was hoping to prevent you some of the suffering and indecision we went through planting our trees last year. We were so scared! But it all worked out great.

Here is a link that might be useful: Miracle Gro Quick Start Transplant Solution

Xantippe, bless your miracle glowing soul! Thank you for going into such detail here. I'm going to deviate slightly from the ingredients you used, as i already purchased compost to mix into my native soil, and rooting hormone to water in. But i think that's pretty similar to what you achieved with your Miracle Grow products. Your technique i'm going to follow to a T. :)

Thank you so much again. I'll let you know how it all turns out.

Happy growing,

estreya

estreya, we can't wait to hear the results. Get 'em in quick while the weather is cool and rainy. Rain, yay! My garden is so happy right now. :)

It's just amazing how everything is greening up with just the little bit of rain we've gotten ...

Half the trees are done! The other half tomorrow. Only i snapped a root. It's still pretty long, so i'm telling myself that the snap will just stimulate growth! :)

Ah, rationalizations. How would we carry on without them!?

Xantippe, do you have photographs of your garden you can share here? I get the distinct feeling is likely to be spectacular!

:)

"Research findings and new technology are slow to be incorporated into nursery and landscape practices. Tradition is important and has a distinct place in our society, however blind allegiance to tradition stymies progress. In 1968, a study was begun to determine the 'optimum' amount of soil amendments to use in the planting hole since recommendations varied from 5% to 50% by volume. The optimum amount turned out to be none...

Use no soil amendments except in very specific conditions of raised or amended beds for plants with very limited root systems. If the existing soil is very poor, remove and replace with good field soil or place at least six inches of good field soil on the surface. However, you should match soil types as backfilling with a good sandy loam in a heavy clay will serve as a collection point for water and the roots will suffocate. Soil amendments in a small planting hole do not assist plant establishment and growth. It is better to use the amendments as a mulch. The only exception is where the entire plant root zone for many years can be amended"

--Carl E. Whitcomb, Establishment and Maintenance of Landscape Plants

Here is a link that might be useful: Myth of Vitamin Stimulants

Bboy, this is super interesting stuff you post. I've read a lot in support of a "100% native soil in the planting hole" approach. There's also huge support for amended soil in the planting hole - from 5 to 50% as your quote notes! So this is yet another area where my mind boggles as i try to synthesize the differing perspectives and come to my own conclusion ...

My soil here is just ... yuck. It's just yuck. So my gut is telling me to toss a few fist fulls of compost into the holes and sort of smoosh it all together. I did that with bushes and such earlier in the season, and everything's just taking off. So i dunno!

I guess i'll just cross everything i can anatomically cross and hope for the best ...

If amending is absolutely necessary (and I am seldom convinced that it is), then incorporating the amendments over the widest possible area is preferred to just the dimensions of the planting hole. Ideally, amend an entire planting bed prior to any planting or barring that, an extremely generously wide (but not deep) planting hole. My preference in poor soils is to prepare a very wide, shallow planting hole, plant high, backfill with the indigenous soil and use the amendments to mulch to the top of the rootball.

FWIW, MiracleGro has one of the most successful advertising programs and highest name-recognition factors in the industry, however its actual advantages to the home gardener in whatever product formulation over any other, less well-known product is up for debate by most horticulturists or industry insiders :-)

I just wanted to thank you all for your thoughts and guidance regarding my fruit tree project this past July. I did get everything planted, after which i watered, watered, and watered some more! Although some trees look better than others in terms of overall vitality, to date, nothing's sunk, defoliated or otherwise complained. Knock wood, i hope hope hope everything has established successfully, in spite of having been planting during less than ideal weather conditions.

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Yay, estreya! They look great! I bet they are loving all this rain.