Not advice, but I can tell you what we have.

1st floor with 10' ceiling: Windows ~5' with ~2' transom above. Windows in kitchen are shorter due to counter.

2nd floor with 8'6" plate (ceiling heights vary): Windows ~5'

We're in the middle of building and I can tell you what ours are. I don't have any 10' ceilings, however, mine are 9' and the windows are either 5' on the front elevation, or 6' on the rear. That seems like it will be fine, the only downside I can see so far is they are double hung and I can't reach the top to lower without a step stool, but I am not that tall. The 5' ones one the front I might have liked to be 5'6", but oh well, to late now.

In our living area we have 12' ceilings with 5'6" windows with a 2' transom. They are higher off the ground than the other windows on the rear elevation.

Whats the house look like as pictures would help.

How far down from the ceilng are your windows being placed?
Thank you for your feedback.

Don't recall exactly, on the first floor I would guess somewhere between 4" and 7" from finished ceiling to the top of the glass in the transom (just enough for the trim).

We have about the same size windows as your architect is suggesting in our 10' ceilings. We left ~2' at the bottom and ~2' at the top. Once you get the trim on, they seems even bigger than that.

Upstairs, they aren't that big (we have 9' ceilings upstairs) but I can't recall the dimensions.

Thanks. I will try to see if going from 4'5 to 5' s a big price jump if not I will make all windows 5 and downstairs add a 1'5 transom.

The transom will probably be a big price jump.

Our ceilings are 9' 6", and the windows are all about 18" from the ceiling, or 8' off of the floor. The windows in the kitchen and MBR are 56", One MBR window is 70", and the living room windows are 73". The kitchen windows are 56" so they would fit over the counter by a few inches, and one wall of the MBR has 56" windows for privacy. The taller window will have to have drapes for privacy.

We were going to do transoms over the kitchen windows, as I wanted to do stained glass inserts, but the cost was prohibitive, and our door/window budget was already stretched.

Window heights can be all over the place, depending upon the style of house. In FL, all of our windows were quite high off the floor; you had to stand up to look outside. It's nice to have at least some windows tall enough so you can see outside when seated. Don't get carried away; I think glass below 24" from the floor has to be tempered.

Maybe ask your architect for some elevations, if you post them I'm sure you could persuade folks to vote on options :-)

Are these windows facing the front or back of the house?

We just finalized our design and our living room ceiling will also be 10'. Knowing that I was a fan of big windows and natural light our builder spec'd three 3' x 7' windows against the wall facing the patio & back yard. I've seen them in some of his other builds and really liked them. Wish we had a view of a creek or pond to look at, but you can't have everything on a budget. :)

Are your window tops aligning with the tops of the doors? It makes the window come down almost 2 ft off the ceiling? My architect says that's how it is usually done. 10 ft ceiling with 8 ft doors means windows will be 2 ft away from ceiling. Is that right?

Our first floor door tops (7' door) align with the window tops. Then there are transoms on the windows and exterior doors.

In The Decoration of Houses, and as summarized below (with a bit of help from Grok), Edith Wharton and Ogden Codman Jr. discuss window design, emphasizing proportion, functionality, and aesthetic harmony.

1. Window Size

• Proportion to Room Size: Windows should be proportionate to the room’s dimensions to ensure balance and adequate light. Windows should follow a proportion where their height is typically 1.5 to 2 times their width. Panes should be divided by simple, slender mullions into rectangular panes (lights) with a height-to-width ratio of about 2:1. Regionality is also a consideration - northern homes need larger windows to light and warm rooms - southern homes, less so.
• Avoid Oversizing for Effect: Excessively large windows, often used for dramatic effect, can make interiors feel exposed or disproportionate, sacrificing comfort for ostentation. Same for large, unbroken sheet of plate-glass.

2. Window Placement

• Distance from Ceiling: To maximize natural light and create a sense of height in the room, windows (and doors) should be placed close to the ceiling as cornices and structural considerations allow, typically within 6 to 12 inches, to avoid a heavy, oppressive band of wall above the opening.
• Distance from Floor: The bottom of the window (sill height) should be low enough to allow for comfortable views when seated, particularly for garden-facing windows. Wharton suggests a sill height of approximately 2 to 3 feet from the floor, though this may vary slightly depending on the room’s function (e.g., higher sills in formal rooms, lower in informal spaces like sitting rooms).
• Front-Facing Windows: These should prioritize symmetry and alignment with the building’s facade to create a unified exterior appearance. The width and height should align with the wall’s divisions and other facade elements, such as doors or columns.
• Garden or Rear-Facing Windows: These windows can be designed with greater flexibility to emphasize views and light. Wharton advocates for larger windows or French doors on garden sides to connect the interior with the landscape, but they must still maintain proportional harmony with the room and exterior. For example, garden-facing windows may be wider or lower to the floor to enhance the sense of openness and connection to outdoor spaces.

If you are interested in design, I highly recommend the book, first printed in 1897 and reprinted numerous times since.

PC LLC 10 year old post............................

Yep!