Quite honestly, I think you did an exceptional job on it!! Keep in mind you're going to have things on the countertop, and those little pieces won't be nearly as noticeable as you think. It's easy for me to sit here and "monday morning quarterback" this. If it were me, I would've started on the right with ALMOST what you have on the left-- cutting the triangles off the blocks, and starting from there. Thing is it still would've laid out to the same size piece in the corner. Diagonal herringbone is a little tougher to figure out what you're going to end up with, so what I'll normally do is lay some out dry on a flat surface, and take measurements to see how it's going to work out. if I see I'm going to have a little bitty piece like that (as in so close and yet so far), I'll see if I can open the pattern up a hair along the length of the wall. 9 times out of 10, I can do it and it's never seen, and then everyone says how lucky we are that it all worked out to full tile! LOL Seriously, though-- I wouldn't sweat that little piece. Where it's important-- at the far end of the counter, it looks great, and that's where it WILL be seen.

2) What is your opinion on a smallish floor and sizing of tiles?

I've heard that you're supposed to use small tiles on small floors and larger tiles on bigger floors. I say, use what you like. I've gone in the opposite direction on BOTH ends of that, and it looked great. It's all about what YOU like.

3) What are your thoughts on tile patterns and sizes of rooms?

With respect to patterns, the only opinion I'll give you is to try and stay away from a square soldier course pattern (just regular setting the tile in straight rows). The reason is that it "modulates" the room. IOW, it breaks the floor up into "modules", whereas even just turning that same pattern diagonal, it takes that effect away. Using your Versailles pattern, will do that even better, even laid straight. With smaller rooms, this isn't nearly as important, but the bigger the area, the more this makes a difference.

Thanks so much for your feedback Bill. My backsplash did finish up nicely on the right side, I hadn't notice that it looks like a 1/2 tile there, like it should...right? It was pure luck!

So 2 questions:
1) Once you figure out how many tiles it will take to finish a row all the way across, you just start at one end and proceed across? What I did with my stove wall was start center of the stove opening, because that is where you look when you walk in the room. Maybe with my 2x4 tile it didn't make much difference with that centering. I DO notice the directional chevron shape on larger herringbone tile and wonder what you would do in that case; treat it like your diagonal example on the other post, and make the edges be equal, having the pattern fall where it will within the confines of the field?

2) Now what does "modulate" mean, and how is this a negative visual effect?

1) Once you figure out how many tiles it will take to finish a row all the way across, you just start at one end and proceed across?

It all depends on how things will work out. In your case, centering and working to the two sides worked out EXTREMELY well, not just at the ends, but at the two sides of the hood, as well. but I've said many times, I don't lay out the same way twice. The only hard fast rule is however it will look the best in the most obvious areas.

2) Now what does "modulate" mean, and how is this a negative visual effect?

It means that when the tiles are placed square to the room, they tend to break the room up into sections (modules) the size of the tiles, whereas if you use any other pattern, it'll break that up completely, even taking that same soldier coursing and turning it diagonal.

Thanks Bill. You've been kind to complement my tile project and very helpful in general with all of your input on this forum. I am keeping my mind open and my hopes up for my next tile project!

I'll tell you-- if, as a DIYer, that little piece is the worst you can fault the installation with? You've done an excellent job.