I have no idea what the proper spec value is for that element, but I can say that if the element doesn't heat up and it is not "open," then the problem is not the heating element.

You sound like you are on the right track in your trouble shooting. Be sure to Ohm out the leads coming to and from the element. There could be a break in the wire or the connecting terminals.

I think I should add:

If everything seems to work, I would look for a bad thermal safety cutoff fuse/switch.

Thanks, I figured the element was OK, but allowed for the possibility of some degraded state less obvious than the usual visible break in the coil, accompanied by soot stains, lol.

Overhead cabinets make it a cramped, hunched over job... when I regain the mood I'll keep Ohming up the line of controls. Seems like pretty basic on/off stuff, no moisture sensors, etc.

I see from other websites there are also one-shot thermal fuses to consider. Sure wish they pasted a schematic on the rear cover. Oh wait, that would be pro-consumer.

If all that fails, I'll make a 10-gauge jumper wire, and do some power-on testing. :'O

Oh well, if nothing else, this breakdown is a great excuse to de-lint the entire air path.

OK, the first simple 2-lead black-disc thermostat is OK/closed-when-cold, as is the final 2+2 lead (bias-heated) black disc thermo, and also the one-shot fuse (both near the vent outlet).

BUT... between those clusters, near top of heating element duct, right before air dumps into clothes drum, there's a 2-lead device that's WHITE AND SQUARE, and it's WIDE-OPEN circuit. ASS-u-ming this is my prob... but not sure.

Is this just another type (failsafe/backup) of thermostat or overheat detector?

It may be a non-resettable thermal fuse .... meaning it must be replaced if it blows.

It sounds like you may have found the problem. If a jumper across that switch's leads enables the element to heat up, replacing it would be a relatively cheap fix.

Another thought would be to locate and check the operation of the door's safety interlock switch. My parents once had a gas dryer that refused to ignite (but appeared to operate normally) when the interlock switch had an intermitant failure.

Online, it looks like my fuse is only sold in revenue-boosting tandem with the high-limit thermostat... we'll see if my local parts store also couples them, or will sell separately.

Nope, had to buy the set, about the same price as online ($23), plus tax, minus shipping, net savings $3. Plus got some helpful advice. Support your local merchant.

Installed the new thermostat while down there, kept the old one as a spare. Dryer works fine, on first load anyway. Only thing that bothers me is there was no OBVIOUS lint blockages, just a little buildup here and there. This suggests the possibility that cycling thermostat is stuck closed, allowing heat buildup, but first load was on low heat, and they didn't get overly hot... keeping an eye out.

So my dryer "career" now includes felt-bearing and drive-belt replacement (incl. drum dismount), heating element, and the above thermo's. Only things left are diagnosing a control head/contact malfunction, and motor replacement, lol.

THANKS GANG!

I have this same dryer, just badged as a Kenmore..

FYI, the tech sheet is a sticker on the back door of the controls compartment. Take off the piece of metal that has "unplug before servicing" stamped into it and it's right there.. has expected ohm values on it and everything. Just in case you ever need it again.

And my version doesn't have any sort of duct between the heater element air intake and the circular hole that leads to under the drum for the intake either.. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be that way, and the air intake is supposed to be through the louvers in the rear panel anyway.

Does the sensor dry actually work on your model? On mine it seems to function exactly like the timer dry, and I couldn't find any mention on the tech sheet of a sensor..

On my dry i change all heating element an it still want get hot