DIY get the rebate. Just walk into Lowes/HD and you'll see signs everywhere. I put some on my 2009 taxes.

So you know, it isn't likely that a new heat pump would change a temperature gradient unless duct work was balanced or added. Insulation is a good idea but also not likely to help a temperature gradient - I suppose it might but not the ideal way.

Larger duct work and dampers is the best way to handle this.

Actually I would disagree with the above a little bit based on my own experience - going from r19 to r50 made a heck of a difference in my home. The A/C kicks on later in the day and the rooms are noticeably more comfortable.

FWIW, get a quote on blown-in cellulose - in my case, it was much cheaper to have cellulose professionally installed than it would have cost just to buy the fiberglass batts - much less the weekends spent crawling around on your knees in the attic to cut and properly place batts.

You only get $1500 total from the feds, so if you already did a heat pump you may not get anything extra back, unless you have state/local/utility rebates...

I did windows too, and they helped with noise, but didn't do much for my utility bills.

Interesting responses; So we won't get an additional rebate on our taxes if we add insulation this year?

I agree with the blown in for the attic. Apparently we have less than 1/2 of what should actually be up there (where does it all go?), but for the floors thats a different story. There isn't anything at all. Our house was built '76, it was code back then probably.

So you don't think the windows will make much of a difference? During the heat of the day I can feel heat coming through. We get lots of light and I have to keep the curtains drawn.

Windows - even super-duper "low E", triple-pane ones have a very low "r" value. Combined with the typically high cost of replacement, from an energy-savings standpoint - don't make much sense. They might make sense from a resale-value perspective, or a noise perspective, or even from a "I can't get the stupid things to open/close properly" perspective.

As for the floor insulation, are you over a crawl-space? If you are, even just insulating the space between the joists over the sill plate can make a nice difference - and it only takes a couple of rolls to go all the way around the house.

Lol! Ok, so replacing the windows is going to become our low priority. Windows are fine, maybe I just need better window treatments that are insulated.

Thank you.

goodbyekitty,

I have a two-story colonial with basement in the Maryland suburbs of DC. The house was built in 1973 and the attick blown-in insulation was about 8"-10" deep. I got quotes three years ago for upgrading the attic insulation. Our old A/C could never get the upstairs cool during 85+ degree weather. I ended up getting a quote for $1 per square foot for 24" of blown-in insulation in the attic with 15" (IIRC) batts down the center where I have a walk way. (Provides future access to the attic centerline.

This added insulation did help the old A/c somewhat and a big positive effect on heating comfort and cost.

I replaced my A/C this May with a heat-pump and replaced my oil furnace at the same time. (Selections based on help I got here.)

This June compared to last year I saved 22% on electric and this July I saved 14% compared to last year. And get this, this year I have the thermostat set at 75 degrees - last year it was set at 79 - 80 degrees during the day.

This Monday I am having a GE heat pump hot water heater which will pay for itself in under three years! I am paying $940 for the heater after 10% Military Discount at Lowes, $300 MD Rebate, $20 Power Co rebate, and MD does not collect sales tax on electric hot water heaters with a COP of 1.7 or greater.

By the way, both Home Depot and also Lowes now offer Military and retired Military and their families 10% off on a year-round basis.

Cool!

I should have mentioned that the PEPCO electric rate here in MD is now 17+ Cents per Kwh with new County taxes and other charges.

I would start the attack with foam and caulk before thinking about insulating as this will provide the fastest return. A home energy audit will be very helpful in spending money on insulation and sealing where it will make the biggest difference first.

zippyhvac - I think I was misunderstood. Insulation will help greatly but it isn't the bast way to stabilize temps in different parts of the house. It will probably help but might not depending on the different temperatur differentials at play. It sounds like it might help in the OPs situation.

Since the contractor was talking about tax credits for insulation, I am guessing that there is still some room left for credits.

The proper way to stabilize temperatures across the house is balancing the ductwork unless there is some missing or inadequate insulation in part of the house.

My insulation salesperson tried to tell me you could get the $1500 fed credit twice, the tax guy says no, and I'm listening to the tax guy on this one - just wanted to let the op know the real deal, so they don't get a surprise at tax time.

Salespeople are salespeople, and sometimes they'll stretch the truth to get a check...

But...

In my area the utility company will split 50/50 with you to upgrade to R-30, and some states have their own rebates as well, so there's more than one way to get a free lunch... or at least a cheaper lunch!!