Would be helpful to know what specific model GE dryer is involved.

99% of the time a clogged exhaust IS the culprit on impaired performance. Just checking the length of flexduct between the dryer and wall isn't sufficient. Your other post in the Appliances section mentions that the exhaust exits through your roof, which means the ducting goes through the wall behind the dryer (or through the ceiling or however), through your attic and so forth. The *entire* length of the exhaust ducting must be checked, from the wall behind the dryer to where it exits outside the house. It's also common that lint clogs at the hood or cap at the end. It's not clear from what you've said if you've thoroughly/properly checked the ducting.

It is a Profile GE electric dryer & the ducts are free from lint clogging it. The Maytag dried just fine before getting the GE... just that the 25 + yr. old Maytag wouldn't shut off automatically so we had to use a timer & shut it off manually.

Not to question you, but I thought my vents were clean too (my dryer vents through the roof). I had been using a leaf blower thinking that was blowing in accumulated lint out. It was helping (some) but I recently cleaned them the "proper" way and I got so much lint out it was ridiculous. I couldn't believe it

Just to recap:

Your new dryer has never worked properly from day one?

New power cord or reused old one?

The new dryer stays as hot as your old Maytag and stays hot inside when checked after 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 minutes ?

You have run the new dryer empty and full with the vent hose disconnected and you could feel there was lots of very hot air coming out the back both times?

The designation "Profile" refers to a trim line within GE's offerings, not to a specific model number. GE currently lists six different Profile dryer models on their web site.
DPVH890EJWW
DPVH880EJWW
DPGT750ECWW
DPGT650EHWW
DPSE810EGWT
DPSR610EGWT

GE's response regarding the power cord is not unreasonable. Power cords are not included with electric dryers because 220v outlets aren't all the same. The appropriate style of cord to match the outlet is bought separately with a new dryer, or an old cord from a previous dryer can be reused (although some local wiring codes require a new cord).

Are you assuming the exhaust ducting is not clogged because the previous Maytag worked OK, or have you actually checked the full distance of the ducting to outside the house? A few of the Profile models have two motors, one for the drum and a separate motor for the blower to make for a stronger airflow. If your model comes under that design, maybe some lint accumulation inside the duct was blown loose and is clogging the exhaust hood at the end.

Assuming that flex-duct of some ilk is connecting the dryer to the wall outlet, check that it's not kinked or constricted behind the machine.

Here is a link that might be useful: Dryer Exhaust

Thanks for all the good suggestions which we will have to try/try again! Yes, the cord was bought new for the dryer. The GE Profile dryer is model # DPSE 810 EGWT & the outlets/plug the same size. Yes, it has the alum. flex duct I think was referred to; the short length is flexed & not kinked or restricted.

Guess we will have to try & chec the duct that runs up through the attic & make sure again it is not clogged with lint. A cousin bought a new set of washer/dryers because her old dryer didn't dry things well. The NEW dryer didn't dry either (!!) & a repairman came & removed a bushel basket of lint from the vent hose!!! So I realize this can be the problem but because our old Maytag dryer didn't have a drying problem we didn't suspect the vent hose.

Forgot to also mention that the alum. flexible duct is only about 12-18 inches long & then it attaches to a pvc pipe that runs up the laundry room wall through the attic to the roof.

May I emphasize and clarify again that the term "dryer exhaust duct" does not mean only the 12- to 18-inch length of "alum. flexible duct" to which you refer. The entire length of the "pvc pipe that runs up the laundry room wall through the attic to the roof" is also part of the exhaust ducting.

You need to go up on your roof and check if there's a clog at the exhaust hood there. While someone is on the roof, turn the dryer on (the air cycle is fine, doesn't need to involve heat) and confirm that a strong airflow is blowing from the exhaust.

However, even if there is airflow, some lint accumulation could still be in the ducting. When hot, damp dryer exhaust air blows through a duct (or pipe or whatever you may have) that passes through a cold attic, moisture can condense inside and cause lint to stick, build-up over time and restrict the airflow ... like cholesterol in an artery.
YouTube Video - Cleaning a Rooftop Dryer Exhaust

That video is EXACTLY my situation except the dryer roof cap is at the very top, not near the gutter for easy access. There is also a steep pitch to the roof. I bought this item off Amazon very similar to what this guy is using in the video and I can't believe how easy it was and how well it worked. The only difference is that I did mine from the inside up to the top. Make sure there is no screen on your roof cap where lint can get caught. Once I ran the brush up carefully as far as it would go........as I brought it back down and a grocery bag full of lint came out...............I then got my leaf blower and blew out the lint I had loosened....Took about 40 min start to finish.....Now clothes are drying in record time....I can't get over it. What was taking 55 min's and still not bone dry, is now taking about 38 minutes (bone dry!).......Seriously, the hardest part of the entire job is pulling the dryer out and putting it back in, the rest is a piece of cake....Item is reusable over and over.

Same here with brand new GE high tech dryer if you want to call it that. I just pulled the top bed cover out and it is damp. I had it on bulk setting for bed stuff and it starts out like it is drying and says it is done.

@Susan Flowers, this dryer was installed 3 months ago as the first dryer in a new house, in which case the exhaust ducting was pristine?

Or it replaced a dryer in an existing home, in which case the exhaust ducting could have already had some obstruction? What led to the need of a new dryer?

What cycle / settings are you using? What specific model dryer is involved?

My issue is the sensor. my sweat pants will dry except waist band. if i add more time it will automatically stop in 3 min. will try extra dry setting to see if that helps

I have a new LG dryer which replaced a 26 y/o Maytag dryer. Just like the old dryer, I'm having to set the dryness level to the highest dryness level on loads that have waistbands or think sox so that all portions of garments are dried thoroughly. I only use the Auto/Sensor cycles. I had to set the Maytag pretty close to the maximum dryness level also.

A friend had older dryer problems like mine .... clothes not coming out really dry'?! She went & bought a NEW dryer .... Same thing ... clothes not really dry? :(

Well, the long dryer exhaust pipe went up through the attic & up roof to the out doors ?!!!!

Seems over the years I guess the exhaust had lint, etc. buildup from the dryer stayed in the exhaust pipe bottom & trapping moisture inside?!

Cleaned out the bottom of the pipe, re-attached it & .... clothes now are DRIED!

I now have TWO working dryers!!

- Vieja

About 1 1/2 months with GE not repairing a dented dryer that does not work with no schedulled repair, no light in the tunnel, one excuse why I can’t get money back, and no plans to get this useless GE dryer out of my house so I have room to put a washer dryer than works in my house. stay away fro GE. 41 phone calls to date with no solution.. Harry R.

Yes I have that problem with my new GE Profile EcoDry dryer that I purchase from Alabama power and they was tell me that to. I had the dryer for 2 days and took it back and they replaced it with the new GE and it sill not drying my clothers I would tell people to stay away from this dryer it don’t dry your clothers …..