There's another thread with a similar question:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/laundry/msg102209415989.html?7

I'm no expert but I had the same problem years ago. The transmission was not working. Time to buy a new machine as it will be expensive to fix especially for an old machine.

Linda

These are usually quite easy to repair - they were made by Whirlpool, and between those two brands (and a few others) oodles of these machines were made and they didn't change much year to year so parts are still readily available and lots of people know how to work on them. These had belt drive, and if the belt snaps it won't spin (I thjnk). There are others on this forum who know much more about appliance repair than me hopefully they'll chime in, I never owned a Whirlpool-built washer but have worked on them.

You didn't include the model number (why do people keep asking repair questions and not include this necessary detail???) ... but assuming it's a belt-drive machine there are several possible causes.

Bad lid switch.

Bad shift coil.

Worn belt.

Worn clutch.

Among others depending on the details of exactly what is and is not happening.

Thanks for all the ideas and encouragement to getting it fixed.

The model number is printed on the lid - 72460130. There is a 110 before that number but not included in that number. The door also says in small print, "Stylemaster 901947-B

Regarding what's happening and not, I watched the whole cycle yesterday and everything seems normal up to the point of spinning at the very end to get all of the water out of the clothes. It does not spin at all but the timer keeps going until it turns off.

Thanks again!

Ginny

It's sounds like the lid switch:

1. Open the lid and look for lint and gunk around the top, also look for lint near the switch(the switch is in a hole in the metal where a plastic pin inserts).
2. If there's no lint then open and close the lid, you should hear a faint clicking sound. Make sure the plastic pin(attached to the lid) didn't get broken, if the pin broke off then it won't engage the switch.
3. Make sure the lid closes all the way, if the lid is bent it won't engage the switch.

Here's a video how to replace the switch:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU

Here's one place to buy:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/brands/kenmore-parts

This post was edited by moviegeek on Sat, Oct 4, 14 at 13:31

The full correct model number, then, is 110.72460130

The leading 110. is a manufacturer code for Whirlpool. Sears/Kenmore is a brand label, they don't produce anything directly. All major appliances (electronics, yard goods, etc) are sourced from an array of manufactures.

The Stylemaster number is a vendor reference to the lid, no relation to the model number of the machine.

This is a belt-drive machine. Those haven't been produced since sometime in 1986.

The serial number is coded with the year and week of production, if you want to know the age more precisely.

There are two spin periods in each cycle ... after the wash agitation phase (drain, then spin), and after the agitated rinse (drain, final spin period). If you have a 2nd rinse option (following the Normal/Regular cycle), then that involves another fill, agitation, drain, and spin if selected.

To clarify, there's no spin at any point in any of the cycles? The motor runs, the timer advances.

The back lid bumper (near the console) has a plunger that depresses the lid switch actuator. Is the plunger broken off? Can you see the actuator lever in the little hole in the top deck? Poke a small screwdriver or some such into the hole, do you hear the switch click? Test the switch for continuity with a volt/ohm meter if you have one (raise the machine's top for access to the switch).

If the switch tests good, then the next possibility is a bad spin shift solenoid (wig-wag), or a broken rivet on the plunger ... both require some minor mechanical disassembly.

Beyond that, a problem of some ilk with the basket drive/clutch/brake assembly.

I just checked - there is no spin at either of the two points where it should spin the clothes. Yes the motor runs and the timer advances and turns itself off when finished.

I checked the switch as you described above and it seems fine and I hear the switch click.

It's encouraging to hear that this sounds fixable!

Thanks for all your information about my beloved washer.

Ginny

Had a Kenmore 800 back in the 1970's and it stopped spinning. It was the clutch. I thought the guy told me he "adjusted" the clutch but he might have said replaced. Too many years to remember that, but it can be fixed.

It is fixable depending on what is the problem. These machines have not been produced for 28+ years so some of the major mechanical parts are very scarce or no longer available.

The wigwam thing, the belt, and the lid switch parts are still available, but I think the basket drive and clutch are NLA; the best source for these in my experience are used machines sold for cheap or given away on craigslist. You can usually identify the old belt drive machines by the shape of the tub opening, which is sort of D-shaped, almost semi-circular being flat along the back, rather than round.

Sears technician just out and after checking the lid switch and listening for less than 10 seconds he said it's the gear case.

He called Sears parts and it's no longer available. I just checked the website you suggested above, and it's no longer available.

He said "maybe you can find someone to fix it."

Of course he encouraged me to buy a new one, which I'm not ready to do just yet.

I could make some calls to local repair shops and see if they have someone who could try and fix this.

What are your thoughts.

Ginny

The gear case (transmission) is not directly involved in spinning. The basket drive mechanism (clutch and brake) are *outside* the transmission, mounted on top of it.

The transmission is likely OK if the machine agitates and (neutral) drains.

Did he check the wig-wag (shift coil)? It's a common failure for no-spin.

Perhaps the service tech is confusing it with a newer design on which the transmission is involved in spinning. Is he a younger fellow, perhaps without experience on these old-style machines?

Best you find a local repair shop that has been in business for a long time that may have some old parts in stock.

This service repairman from Sears, didn't give me the impression he has worked on old machines.

I showed him the list of ideas you guys had and had highlighted "wig-wag" among other things. I think he looked at it briefly but went right to the diagnosis of needing the "gear case." I should have asked him to look further but didn't.

When you talk of old parts I gather it doesn't have to be the Sears specific part?

Thanks much!
Ginny

Old parts can either be serviceable used items (if you trust the techs at the selected service), or new-in-box parts that have been sitting on a shelf for years (remember, these machines haven't been produced since 1986, although replacement parts were produced for some time after and a few items are still available).

Machines of this design were produced by Whirlpool under the Whirlpool and Kenmore brand labels. Mechanical parts are largely interchangeable.

Proper examination of the wig-wag involves testing it for continuity with a meter and checking that the rivet in the guide/plunger is intact. Also occasionally happens that one of the wires to the solenoids breaks (especially after 40 years of wigging-wagging).

This post was edited by dadoes on Thu, Oct 9, 14 at 8:02

I would just buy a new or used one, check the yellow pages for a second hand appliance store. You can buy a used top loader for $80. No use spending $400 to fix your old one when you can buy a new one for $400.

Did the tech check the lid switch for continuity? If not then he is worthless, it only takes a few minutes with a multi-tester.

I just talked to a repair shop that was able to fix my 40 year old Kenmore refrigerator.

He cautioned me that for them to fix it could be up to $300 and recommended I consider buying a new one.

I think he is right. I don't "love" my washer like I love my refrigerator so I guess I could buy a new one.

Now the question is which one? I guess I'll look at Consumer Reports to see who has the best record for reliability.

Thanks for all your help!

Ginny

"Did the tech check the lid switch for continuity? If not then he is worthless, it only takes a few minutes with a multi-tester."

I just read what you mean by that (found a webpage that describes it completely!) and no, he did not do that.

Unfortunately, then, you don't have a reliable diagnosis of what is the problem to confirm which parts are involved (if any) and what might be the repair cost.

The problem may be the wire to the wig-wag is broken. If not it's the lid switch.

Open up the rear and fill washer to lowest water level set water at 2mins end of wash look at the wig-wag engage the drain portion after 4mins the wig-wag will engage the spin cycle. If the cam does not lift, the wig-wag wire may be broken or wig-wag is defected.

I should have followed your advice and had my 40 year old Kenmore repaired. I didn't. I bought an basic Hotpoint at Home Depot for $400.

What surprised me to start with was the very slow agitation; how can clothes get clean?

Second surprise was the low water level for the rinse; how does the soap get removed?

Since the purpose of a washing machine is to wash clothes I don't believe this unit will do that, at least not to my satisfaction!

People seem to like Speed Queen; basic, no frills, quality machine.

I believe HD will take back the Hotpoint and then I'll buy a Speed Queen. Even though the Speed Queen is $350 more, I don't think I'll have to wonder if my sheets, towels and clothes are really clean.

Ginny

Can't even compare the SQ with the Hotpoint. With SQ you will know they have been both washed and rinsed.SQ will use the same amount of rinse water as it did wash water.