If this is a top loader, my first thought is the switch that senses that the lid is closed.

Please describe the problem in more detail. What's going on inside when the problem occurs? Does the machine beep an error? What pattern of lights is on the panel?

With no clothes in the machine, set it on the Regular or Heavy cycle, advance to the final spin, press Start. What happens?

Check the Fault Code and test the lid switch and out-of-balance switch via this procedure:
- With the power off, press and hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same time. There should be two short beeps and the machine powers on in Diagnostic Mode. Release the buttons.
- Press Spin Speed Up and/or Down until BOTH the Slow and Hold lights are on. The eight cycle progress lights indicate the last Fault Code that occurred. Make note of which lights are on from left to right (1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc.).
- Press Spin Speed Up and/or Down until the Medium spin light is on.
- The 12 Min wash light then indicates status of the lid switch. With the lid CLOSED the light should be OFF. With the lid OPEN the light should be ON.
- The 6 Min wash light indicates status of the OOB switch. Push and hold the tub toward the right-rear to activate the switch, the light should turn ON. With the tub centered normally, the light should be OFF.
- Press Power to exit Diagnostic and turn the machine off.

Report your findings here.

no lights in fault code with dadoes fault code check
lid switch ok
OOB switch ok

spin cycle it pumps (recirclates ?) water in tub then goes to pump out / spin it doesn't, it beeps, and wash rinse and spin lights come on and remain on

spin cycle it pumps (recirclates ?) water in tub then goes to pump out / spin it doesn't, it beeps, and wash rinse and spin lights come on and remain onThe lights that are on when it's beeping probably are a fault code. Again, you must specify exactly which cycle progress lights are on by number (1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc.) from left to right ... along with any other lights on the panel that may be lit or flashing. There are eight cycle lights (several for the wash phase, two for rinse, final spin). Each light has a different meaning when displaying a fault code.

There shouldn't be any recirculation via the pump during spin. Recirculation occurs only at the start of a cycle, during the Eco Active wash phase (basket rotates at 25 RPM), and possibly one time for a few moments during rinse. If you are getting recirculation when the machine should be draining, then your diverter valve is probably bad.

Test it via this procedure. Is there water in the machine now? It needs a few gallons to do this test.
- Get into Diagnostics per the previous instructions.
- Press Wash Temp down to run some cold water in if needed.
- Press the Delicate cycle button and wait a couple mins. This activates the diverter valve.
- Press the Regular button (do not turn off Delicate yet). Water should recirculate into the tub via the port at right rear of the tub. It should NOT drain.
- Turn off Regular & Delicate. Wait 3 or so mins for the diverter to deactivate fully.
- Press Regular to turn the pump on, it should drain and NO WATER should come from the recirculation port.

If the pump recirculates when it shouldn't or drains when it shouldn't, then the diverter valve is either broken or clogged with lint. The valve mounts under the tub near the pump. Has three hoses attached ... one coming from the pump, the drain hose, and the recirculation hose. It's not an expensive part to replace.

Also, VERY IMPORTANT ... examine the pump for signs of leaking. The pump on GWL10 is part of the machine's power supply circuit to the controller board. If the pump motor windings get wet/corroded from a leak, even a small leak over time, the pump can short-out or go to high resistance and zap the controller board.

On my Eco-Smart, I washed a rug, and it quit spinning. I took the agitator and the tub out, but couldn't see any problems other than some rug lint and lime build-up. When it still wouldn't work after cleaning and reassembling, I took it back apart and my 11 yr. old son helped me realize the cover over the drain was removable, so we took it off, and there was a huge wad of rug pieces clogging the drain hole. After starting the machine over with no clothes, it ran through all the cycles with no problems.

We too have a problem. At the end of the wash cycle, the machine stops for about 3 minutes, then beeps, showing the 3, 6, and 8 lights. During the 3 minute pause, there is an electrical "hum" from the machine, but the pump and spin cycle before rinse does not commence

Code 37. Pump blocked. The machine is supposed to be draining but the controller board has sensed that that the water level has not changed for 3 minutes.

1) The drain hose has been squashed or kinked which is impeding the pump out rate.

2) The pump is partially or fully clogged with lint or debris.

3) The pump is not operating due to a) Motor Controller module failure, b) wiring short or break, or c) pump failure.

4) This fault could also appear if the machine is pumping to an unusually high head of drain hose or into an extended length of drain hose.

5) Diverter valve fault or blockage, water level is not altering due to the diverter being stuck in the recirculation mode, and thus the pumped water is not flowing out the drain hose.
Since you're hearing a humming sound and the pump doesn't run, it's probably frozen-up with bad bearings or jammed with debris. DO NOT run the machine any more until you fix the problem ... doing so can kill the controller board.

Code 14, 30, 75 & 1 Trusty F&P after many years of reliable service sounds sick. Any suggestions, help great fully accepted and appreciated

Code 37
How do you get to the drain to unclog it? Do you pull the rubber hose out of the machine and if so how?

Machine will not spin, barely drained. Error code 37.

Code 37 doesn't necessarily mean the pump itself is clogged. The diverter valve is more often the fault. What leads you to believe the pump is clogged? Did you wash a super-linty item or overlook some debris in a pocket immediately prior to the problem occurring?

The pump and diverter or both accessed from beneath the machine. The pump is removable without tools. Unplug the machine from power, disconnect the pump wires, find a plastic latch on the pump mounting plate, hold it released and rotate the pump counterclockwise (as viewed from beneath) to detach from the plate. Some residual water will spill out even if the tub is bailed. Probe up in the tub outlet for debris as well.

In some cases of debris at the tub outlet, the inner drum must be removed to access the tub outlet from inside. There's a cover over the tub outlet under the drum.

The diverter valve is near the pump, has wires & three hoses attached, and should be in a clear plastic cover. Requires a screwdriver and pliers for the hose clamps. Be careful not to get it reversed the reinstalling or the pump flow will be reversed.

Lights 368 flash for last fault

lid open- light 2&6

lid closed light 7

not oob

full of water, not draining, not spinning.

Just put back into place after a small move - laundry renno and completed 2 loads fine.

Can add extra water ok

to test diverter I pushed delicate. Did not light. 3-4 beeps. Waited more than couple mins. In fact only cycle that lit was regular - it hummed.

I guess I can't check lint if it's underneath. Is there a lint in the middle /agitator?

Help! Or should I get a repairman in? Thnx

F&p excellence smart drive 6.5

First, "Excellence 6.5" is a marketing name, not a model number. The specific model number, such as GW609 or GW611, etc., should be cited for proper identification.

"to test diverter I pushed delicate. Did not light. 3-4 beeps. Waited
more than couple mins. In fact only cycle that lit was regular - it
hummed."

Some models don't have a diverter valve, depends on age and features of the machine. Could be a bad or jammed/obstructed pump. Not clear from your description if "hummed" means the pump was running (normal sound for pump operation), or a fainter hum of the pump getting power but is seized ... if so it should trip-out on thermal overheat quickly enough and the humming sound stops until it cools and tries to run again.

Hi. I have a similar issue. Code 37 but I don't hear any hum. Couldn't find a clog and figured pump must have fried since no hum or sound when should be draining.

Went through diagnostics above. Lid seems alright. Couldn't get oob to light. Also went through second set and nothing. No recirculation or draining. Any suggestions? Thanks kindly. Sally

Btw. Forgot to say installed new pump. No change. Then found this page so all diagnostics done with new pump in place. Still no hum.

^Possibilities:

1. New pump is bad
2. Wire harness not connected to it or other wiring problem.
3. Motor board is bad (which means the old pump may be OK, you'd have to test it directly).

Thanks dadoes. much appreciated. Suspecting wiring or motherboard since it doesn't seem to engage the pump at all, now or before I replaced it. I would expect to hear a hum - like others have described? Time for a repairman... :-(

Checked diagnostics per dadoes' instructions above. No codes. Powering machine on gives the 4 light and the 8 light with beeping. No other functions possible.

Checked pump motor, it's clear, tests to 33 ohms, and has continuity across the connector.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Longstache

The Stache said: "Checked diagnostics per dadoes' instructions above. No codes. Powering
machine on gives the 4 light and the 8 light with beeping. No other
functions possible."

Do you mean 4 and 8 per the fourth and eighth lights counting from the left (code 17)? Or 4 and 8 per binary 4 and 8 (sixth and eighth lights, code 12)?Also, please specify the model number.

Yep, wasn't in binary. Had a code 9, needed to reset size of machine for new board. Now just need to stop the leaking around the mixing valve which toasted the old board in the beginning!

thanks