Oops! See my replies on a couple other threads this evening also.

Call around to rental/paint/hardware-stores in your area. A flat, vibrating-plate sander works great...and FAST!
* The idea? Sand through the old finish, instead of wetting, scrubbing, stripping, waiting DAYS to dry...
* You could sand your deck 7-times over in that time-frame!
* It's actually the best/fastest way to prep a deck.
* Hand/palm-sanders are great for steps, seats, hand-rail tops, etc.
* Use a dust mask!!

Faron

Thanks for the tips. What about a pressure washer? When we were rinsing the stripper with our garden hose, we noticed that the hose seemed to be removing a lot of the old stain. I know we have to sand it anyway, but we're afraid of damaging the wood because we don't know anything about sanders...

Dm,
Since you'll be sanding anyway, the P/W is irrelevant.
* See my above post about the sander-type to ask Rental-places for. Inquire if they have backer-pads & sanding-sheets too.
* I have some other replies concerning sanding on some threads dated 7-19/20-07.
* Used incorrectly, P/wshrs. can easily do more harm than good!

Faron

I am in the same situation. I just tried the same thing on my deck yesterday -- it has a solid deck stain (not Behr though) and used 2 types of stripper and power washer. Terrible results! So I will wait for it to dry and try a sander. Thanks for the tip. I was happy to see it when I googled the topic. I'd be interested to know what you try next and the results. Thanks!

WAS in the same boat as you! Using Faron's advice, I rented a sander. It took 4 hours to sand my 600sq ft deck, but it's all done and pretty. It worked great! Looking to restain in the next day or so. I think I will need to prime first, followed by a pigmented stain.

BTW, I tried the strippers first. They're messy, expensive, slow, a lot of work, and my knees hurt.

Sounds good Slate!!
600 s.f.....oooffda! Wish I had that much "footspace"!

>>> How high is your deck off ground??
>>> You mentioned priming your deck...are you using a solid Cabot stain over top of the Cabot "Problem-solving Primer"??
>>> With your "new" deck now...I'd use a Semi-Trans. so I could see all the pretty grain!

MaryO...
* Just make sure it's a FLAT-BOTTOMED, VIBRATING-PLATE sander...NOT the drum style.
* Get a couple backer-pads too.

Post back with your results guys!!
Faron

I have the same problem with a stain that I applied last year already peeling early this spring. I used a Wolman DuraStain product and will never do that again. I appreciate the information on sanding as Wolman suggested I used MORE of their products to first remove my stain and then reapply more! Unfortunately this is a huge project - porch, deck, several sets of stairs and then a boat dock. Your comments are appreciated!!!!

Farin,

My deck is only a foot or two off the ground. I know what was said about the lower decks absorbing more moisture. But the reason I'm going back with a solid stain is that my rails and stiles are still stained and in good shape. Also, the screw heads and most of the knots still have original stain in them. In other words, I could not remove absolutely 100% of the original stain.

What esle would you recommend?

Hey Slate,
* Hmmmm...I can't in good faith recommend a Solid-stain for a low deck. They just don't breathe as well. Simple as that.
* But, since you have to, use the primer appropriate for the deck. The Cabot one is a good one...helps the solid colors "grip" better.
* If you can, don't close in the sides with Lattice, etc.
* Is there a Semi-Trans. color that would maybe coordinate?
Cabot has many colors to choose from. Your decking would breathe much better.

All the best!
Faron

Faron,
Good suggestion about the Cabot semi-transparent. I might try that. Is that Cabot primer used under their semi-trans stain?

Oh, and the deck has no lattice, and is completely graveled underneath.

Slate,
No, the Cabot primers are only used under solids to help them hold better. Otherwise you'd see the primer thru your S/T stain!
* I've seen a couple solid-color-spindle/handrail with S/T floor area stained decks, and thought it looked kinda cool!
* Again, S/T stains typically breathe better on a low deck, but realistically, I'd lightly clean and do a light-restain every other year...maybe every 3rd year...on the deck floor.
* You'll "keep ahead" of most damage this way, and color-wear will be a little more even.
* After 6 or 7 years, I'd haul out the sander again...before deck floor starts lookin' too "ridged"!

Faron

I have been going through this same deck stripping process and appreciate the advice concerning the sander. Since I tried stripping my deck yesterday, how long do I need to wait before sanding?
Also, any advise on what type of stain to use on a redwood deck to keep it looking as natural as possible? Thanks for your help.

Hi WB,
If you've had dry weather, 3 or 4 days is OK, then use the sander.
* You want all wood fibers to "shear off" nicely. If they're still damp, they may "tear" more...compared to a cleaner cut.
* Important point: Get all the dust you can from where you sanded!! Sweeping/Shop-vac/light wipe with paint thinner.
* Then, stain away!

Deck Stains...hmmm...now THERE'S a "hot topic" here!
* I can only speak of what we have good experience with at our store here in Fargo, ND...
* Our climate here can range from -30 to 100+, with ALL kinds of humidity. It's a wonder anything holds on a deck!
(our rough streets take a beating too!)

....That said....
* The "clear", "natural" colors from Penofin & Sikkens are our best sellers.
* PENOFIN: Cedar, Western Red Cedar, & Transparent Redwood are by far the 3 top colors here. TWO-COAT process normally on untreated wood. 2nd coat goes pretty quickly.

* SIKKENS: JEEZ we go through a lot of this stuff! SRD is appropriate for 95% of decks. ONE COAT on untreated wood.
>>>> Most popular SRD colors...
077 Cedar, 078 Natural, 005 Natural Light, Mahogany, & 089 Redwood.
* I've got an 11 yr.-old Redwood deck. I'm real happy with the SRD 089 Redwood I've got on it. I've had 2 yrs. off, but have to do it again this fall.
* We don't get any shade on ours; but, up here, that's about all we can realistically expect.

Let us know how it goes for ya!
Faron

I rented a vibrating sander to remove solid stain (Behr) from my deck floor. It did a good job but there are still a few spots in grooves and wood grain that still have visible color. Can I use a pressure washer to remove these areas or will a stripper work better? Also is it necessary to apply cleaning solution before using a semi transparent stain if the entire deck has been sanded?

Your best bet to get advice would be to start a new tread then revive an 8 year old one. A stripper will be the best maybe in conjunction with a pressure washing on a very low setting (pressure washing generally does more harm than good in the wrong hands, especially on older wood). And yes it is a good idea to use a cleaning solution as it will also neutralize the wood and help the stain take better. But keep in mind wood that has had a solid stain on it then stripped generally does not take a semi-solid stain well from my experience.

I used a Thompson clear stain and it is pealing. When sanding, the dust seams to bond together like a wax and clogs the sand paper, plus leaves wax like blobs in the wood. Any ideas?

Thats what finishes do. Best bet is to strip it chemically then sand.

We have deck with semi permanent stain we're removing. The deck boards while only 2 years old are not all completely flat. Sanding has removed 65% of stain, however there's a considerable amount of stain remaining.

What's best way to remove balance?