Use a quality sealer from apaint store. My guess is you are using products from Home Depot or Lowe's. They do not conatin the right type of pigment nor do they have adequate amounts of quality mildewcide. Please don't use Rhinoguard. At the very least do a search on this board for the product and read the less than rave reviews.

ghesssssssss,,,J

John, ever feel like you are in a time warp? I hear an echo, echo, echoooo. Where's our buddy, Kev?

Right here. The last volley didn't accomplish much more than getting things wrapped more tightly around the axles...so, I'm keeping the controversial suggestions to a minimum.

Ken, if you'll check around, you'll probably see me on several other PW forums you frequent...it's been interesting...seems you've got a few friends that share your opinion of my product...and their argument is pretty much the same as yours...not a lot of fact, but tons of opinions.

On the other hand...the product just keeps working! Actually, some new stuff going on that I thought about pinging Ken on...thought I'd get his feedback. On the other hand, I'm not sure I'm up to (or interested in) another round like the last few.
Kevin

I can see why kev,your not selling a product, your selling a high priced service. J

On Oct. 4, John said,
"I can see why kev,your not selling a product, your selling a high priced service."

You can see why...what? John, I've read, and re-read your posting and have no idea what you're talking about. However, I DO sell the product with my service...just like you. Please reserve comments on my pricing until you know what my pricing is.

PAUL B. Please contact me directly by going to "My Page" and selecting the e-mail link. I'm also in Atlanta, we provide a permanent sealant, and a long list of satisfied customers. I'd love to help you any way I can.
Kevin

Kevin, I'm just playing around. Feel free to run your ideas by me. As you know I will tell you exactly what I feel based upon field experience. I will do my best to keep an open mind but please, if you are looking to sway my opinion on any product I need fact not rhetoric. My only arguement with the last tete a tete was that when called to the table for facts, you dissapeared.

I'm sure the both of us have better things to do than verbal volley and make a**es of ourselves on a public forum. I will respect anything you post and will not take personal pot-shots at you, or your ideas.

The only sealer I've seen that last longer than a year here in Texas is Duraseal, not sure if they have any franchises there or not. It looks great for about 3 years then it goes down hill fast & that's where the problem begins as it does not come off very easily for a new application.

Al

question. problem. a painter stripped, sanded, stained, and finished with duraseal a covered porch floor and steps (all exterior) at a house i manage in cape may. the owner has asked me to fix the problem as the painter wont. the finish has blistered and has bubbles in large random areas and some of the steps have turned cloudy white from rain. another set of steps looks ok but the finish is breaking down and looks dry and cracked. this was done and completed in august of this year 2005. what do you think could be the problem? i am asked to sand it all off and retreat with stain and varnish. any help would be apprecciated. thanks , joe

As far as I know, Duraseal is an interior product much like a polyurethane or varnish. The problems you described are typical of using any type of varnish coating on an exterior project. Moisture gets underneath and the product bubbles and turns cloudy.

The only way I would touch this project would be to have you sign a waiver as to results. I highly doubt you are going to be able to get the product off completely. If it's a small-ish area you can use a methylene chloride based stripper followed by an extensive sanding.

Do NOT apply a varnish on top of any exterior wood finish or the same thing will happen again. Use a quality penetrating, oil based, semi transparent sealer. One you would find at a paint store. Examples would be Cabots, Sikken's SRD. Deckscapes. Nothing you will find from Home Depot or Lowes will last without becoming black from mold.

Hope this helps.

about duraseal on exterior porch. yes, the product rep has confirmed it is an interior product. thanks for your input on this, we have started sanding some of it but it now is getting too cool to do it all. most of it will probably have to wait till spring unfortunately. thanks again.

What about this australian timber seal by Cabots. i do not mind putting it on every 2 years as long as I do not have to scrape off the last batch. thanks BAR

You should try the longest lasting transparent deck finish on the market - Lifeline Endure. We just applied it the the ironwood bridge at our complex here in Hawaii. It will stand up to salt and chlorine water and is easy to re-coat. It looks awsome and they say it will last 2-4 years, which is at least double the product we've been using.

OneTime should be called One Time PER YEAR. dont get your hopes up.

I own a deck installation company and have tried every product out there. The only product I recommend after trial and error is floor shield. It will last anywhere from 15-20 years

Here is a link that might be useful: www.floor-shield-usa.com

I have been looking at Floor Sheild that Deckxpert posted about on Aug 16, 2011. Has anyone else used it? Can deckxpert or anyone else tell me if it needs to be stripped. before putting a new coat on in 15-20 years? How difficult is it to strip if needed?

I have been looking at Floor Sheild that Deckxpert posted about on Aug 16, 2011. Has anyone else used it? Can deckxpert or anyone else tell me if it needs to be stripped. before putting a new coat on in 15-20 years? How difficult is it to strip if needed?