Piece of cake. I do encourage the use of a mesh cover to keep weight at a minimum. The weight concern, IMHO, would eliminate using a Merlin Smart Mesh as these covers are both heavy and have almost no stretchiness like a Loop Loc or Meyco brand cover. I'm not knocking the Merlin Smart Mesh. Its a fine cover but in this application, it isn't appropriate. I think Performance Covers has a similar model, I think it's the ProMesh grade and would be equally unsuitable.

Put an automatic step pump on the deep end swimout's 1st step. I like the Rule 1800. The latest edition has improved water tightness, a low profile. and a 3 year warranty. This will keep the water level off the tile reliably. Please run the discharge end of the hose away from the house, walk ways, driveways, and down hill, away from the pool.

The wall is too high for an "up and over" the wall cover. You would not have a warranty and a healthy snow load would prove problematic. Most quality manufacturers want there to be no more than 18" from the water line to the bottom of the cover.

There is a solution, as long as the manufacturer can make it so there are no opposed snap hooks on strap lines. There must be a full sized spring on the other side opposite a snap hook to meet the ASTMI/ANSI standard for a "safety cover".

Tile wall:
Home Depot carries 1/2" tile and glass drill bits. Drill between tiles to form the initial cut into the tile edges. I would likely put them at the bottom of each of the blue accent tiles to keep them even and uniform looking. Then a 3/8" bit light hammer drill 2.5" into the gunite. Set the anchor, attach the removable eye bolt (but here I suggest they be left in), run the stainless cable, and attach the cover. As long as the tech has done raised surfaces before, this will be about as easy for him as it gets with wall anchors. The cable should be at least 3/16" thick but 1/4" is preferred and MUST be stainless.

Dry laid Travertine deck:
Core drilling 1" holes in the correct locations, then hammer drill a 3/4" hole inside the 1" through about 10 to 12 inches into the base material under the Travertine tiles. The cover manufacturers make a 15" aluminum pipes that hold an anchor and that is hammered into the 1" hole. I like to add a 2' long piece of #5 rebar for extra bite but it isn't required. Still a good idea, none the less.

Use masonry collars. They will protect the deck from the steel installation and removal tool/pipe and look neater, effectively hiding the edge of the hole. They tarnish to a deep brown but won't corrode or stain the decking.

If the curve of the wall prevents the placement of a spring being opposite a snap hook end, i.e. two snap hooks that are directly opposed, the manufacturer would label this as non-safe because it doesn't meet the ASTMI/ANSI standards for design requirements. That doesn't mean it wont hold a snow load or a person or last a long time!

The use of two turn buckles on the cable ends, instead of the customary single, is suggested to provide the cable slack for initial connections and for tensioning later.

Feel free to PM me if your builder's or the installers want to discuss these projects.

These covers won't be cheap. The raised wall treatments, for example, from Loop Loc (I am a L/L dealer but the plug is not meant as such) are about $100 per linear foot of raised wall extra. The pipes for the deck anchor are an extra $15 and the core drill rental and extra bits will run another couple hundred. All told, it winds up adding up. I would expect Kate's pool to run about $6500 and barba's about $5000.

They will keep accidents from happening, the number one reason for installing these covers. The neat appearance and durability, when compared to a tarp cover with water bags and the way leaves blow off are secondary but important bonuses.

Scott