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Insulating around can lights

20 years ago

There are some can lights in my kitchen that according to the Home Inspector shouldn't have insulation right around them in the attic (which they do). He suggested building some little boxes out of duct board to cover them. They do leak quite a bit of air as it is now. Kitchen is warmest area in the summer and coolest in the winter so I thought I'd finally tackle this project to help it be more comfortable. There are 9 can lights in the kitchen.

Any pros/cons to this or other ideas? Also if I use duct board does the foil side go on the light side and the insulation part is visible in the attic. I would think this is the way from a fire hazard point of view. Also how large would you make it?

Comments (7)

  • 20 years ago

    You can greatly reduce the amount of heat generated by your kitchen ceiling lights by converting the units to seperable, or plug-in type compact fluorescents. Fluorescent lamps use about one third the amount of power as an equivalent incandescent lamp. This means that less heat is generated, and less heat is lost to the attic. By converting to plug-in type fluorescent lamps, with "Power-Rim" power supply, the life of the unit will be extended, and the heat loss during winter is further reduced. The manufacturer of this unit is Power-Lux. The unit might install in your existing recessed downlight fixtures with little or no modification.

  • 20 years ago

    Thanks, but I don't like flourecent light and the lights do not generate a lot of heat. Them being open a bit to the attic is what is generating heat in the summer and cold in the winter. There is a small draft there from inside the house to the attic or the other way around depending on how you look at it. Actually I don't normally have them turned on during the day either so can't be the lights themselves.

  • 20 years ago

    I'd make the boxes big enough so that there is at least 3" clearance at the closest points and put the foil side in. your other option is to replace the existing cans with air tight, IC rated cans. Then the insulation can go up to and cover the cans. The cans are not that expensive and if there is easy access in the attic, it's definitely a DIY project. If you do it, make sure the power is off at the circuit breaker - don't rely on just turning the light switch off, someone could turn on the switch while you are working in the attic.

  • 20 years ago

    Thanks ventupete, I may replace them if they don't cost that much. I have easy access to all of them, but two smaller ones and I'm experienced in electrical work

    About how much would I be looking at pricewise per can. It might be worth doing that instead. Got to look at my time and cost.

  • 20 years ago

    I haven't priced them recently, but assuming they are 6" cans, they are probably around $20 per can. HD or Lowe's has a pretty good selection and they often sell them in a six pack which is cheaper. I like the Halo cans but there are others of good quality, also and you need to make sure that the existing trims you have are compatible with the new cans as the cost of new trims is roughly the same as the cans. Depending upon the current installation you will have to decide whether to use remodel cans or new construction cans. I would probably go with the remodel as they are quicker to install.

  • 20 years ago

    Thank you so much for the information and good point about the trim. I'd want the re-model cans for sure. I looked at Lowe's website and found a remodel housing for 6" that is IC for ~$13 and they have the kind I have on their site too so easy to check in the store what fits and doesn't.

    I have two 4" and seven 6" so this sounds like the easy route to go instead of messing with the duct board and trying to fasten that etc.

  • 20 years ago

    You're welcome. Although I haven't seen them, I am told that there are airtight IC cans now available. IC cans are much better than regular cans at blocking the airflow, but they don't block everything. So you might ask about them.