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Howard Butcher Block Conditioner over Minwax Stain?

12 years ago

I have a solid piece of lyptus that I'm going to use as a bar counter in my kitchen. It's about 50" x 10" and it just a small ledge where I'll sit and drink my coffee and read the news in the morning.

My question is, can I stain the wood with Mixwax Wood Finish (this stuff: http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/stains/minwax-wood-finish) and then use Howard Butcher Block Conditioner or some other beeswax/oil combo as a sealer? I can't find a clear answer anywhere, because I'm not really concerned about this being a food-safe surface. Everyone's focused on the food-safety aspect.

Other background: I want to stain the wood because I'd like it to be more brown than the red my piece currently is. I don't care much for polyurethane and would like some level of water resistance (and not a shiny finish) so shellac is out.

I've used a citrus wax over Minwax stain as a finish on a kitchen table and been very happy with it so think this should work, but I'm interested in feedback, product recommendations, etc. If you have other ideas of how to stain/finish, I'm all ears.

Comments (4)

  • 12 years ago

    No. If you stain it, it needs to be coated with a clear finish like poly or varnish. The finish you are describing is only used on cutting bord type srfaces that will actually be used for chopping and other food prep.

  • 12 years ago

    If all you want is slight water/coffee spill resistance almost any waxy or oil finish will do. It's not as if it's a prep sink counter.

    If you were happy with the citrus wax over stain for the table, use it again.

  • 12 years ago

    Thanks for the responses! @hollysprings, I'm curious about why you say it must be finished with poly or varnish?

    Does anyone have experience working with lyptus? It seems slightly splintery despite being carefully sanded with 100 > 150 > 220 sandpaper. I'm thinking building up a wax finish should eliminate it, but I don't get why it's still like that.

  • 12 years ago

    Odds are your wood is not Lyptus because of the properties you describe. Very few sources of Lyptus are trustwothy and ship whatever is plentiful at the moment.
    That isn't important if you are satisfied with the appearance. What is important is the combination of products used to finish it. It is real simple for the novice to choose stains and/or topcoats. First prioritize your preferances for topcoat. In this case,beauty and water resistant with wearability not being nessary. You mentioned MinWax which is my reccomendation for the novice because it is simple to use and yields good enough results. So Minwax Wipe On Poly Satin it is. Now you choose stain,Minwax Wood Finish. Both products are oil based and paint thinner clean up. Miwax offers many products,all except Polyshades are good products when used as directed. Choose another brand if you like but NEVER mix and mingle brand names until you gain enough experience that you aren't asking what to use like you are here. Whatever you use,follow the directions printed on the label to the letter,again until you don't need advice on what to buy. It's important to understand that far better products are on the market but they are difficult to use until basic skills and methods are mastered. Pros luv telling green horns about their secret witches brew without considering the specialized techniques required in applying it. I have heard many swear by their concotions eventhough it flys in the the face of the world's finest experts. It's fun trying to invent better mouse traps after one becomes bored with established ways but it's asking for trouble a novice isn't prepared for.