Hole saw or Forstner for kichen faucet hole?

12 years ago

Hi there, I've really enjoyed lurking around this forum and learning from you all. I'm currently working on a walnut butcher block kitchen counter. I'd like to know what you would use to cut the 1 3/8" hole for the faucet? I've only used hole saw bits in the past, so that was my default, but when I went to buy one deep enough for my 1 3/4" work top, I checked out the Forstner bits and wonder if that might be a better way to go? What say ye? Thanks!

I understand from other threads that for many the answer is: "I wouldn't do either, wood and water don't mix" :) But I've had BB counters before, adored them, and don't want to do stone. I'm waterlox-ing them like a madwoman, so I'm hopeful they'll do fine.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (6)

klem1
12 years ago
Either will do the job although the hole saw may have to start on one side then finish from the other. When you tire of hearing power tools scream and breathing saw dust you might try old school tools. For your counter top holes a hand brace with expansion bit is what granddad used.
User
12 years ago
One must be careful when using a Forstner bit in a hand held drill when the bits are over about 3/4".

Reason? They can grab if tilted and yank a single speed drill out of your hands.

Use a adjustable speed drill(1/2" chuck size, since a 3/8" chuck size is too small/not powerful enough).
Related Professionals
Bainbridge Cabinets & Cabinetry · Cambridge Cabinets & Cabinetry · Pittsfield Cabinets & Cabinetry · Burlington Cabinets & Cabinetry · Santa Maria Cabinets & Cabinetry · El Paso Cabinets & Cabinetry · Boise Cabinets & Cabinetry · Longview Cabinets & Cabinetry · Houma Carpenters · Davenport Carpenters · Oneonta Carpenters · Oshkosh Carpenters · Victoria Flooring Contractors · Bemidji Flooring Contractors · Keene Flooring Contractors
jadie88
Original Author
12 years ago
So helpful, thank you!

Handymac, given your warning, I better stick with my tried but true hole saw. I sure don't trust myself enough to risk it.

Klem, I had a big "duh" moment when I used the hole saw to make a starting point to jigsaw the sink cutout. I got about 2/3 of the way through, then thought, "gee, why isn't it advancing any more?" I can't believe I didn't anticipate that it wasn't deep enough for the counter. Sheesh! I suppose I'll drill a pilot hole to be sure I've centered it right on both sides and have at it.
sombreuil_mongrel
12 years ago
It would be advisable to sand the inside of the hole smooth (or ream it with the same-size forstner) so that it will be easier to get a good sealing coat of poly varnish on the edges of the bore. You want to make sure water has no easy way in the wood. This is one of just a few situations where I advocate for poly.
Casey
jadie88
Original Author
12 years ago
Thanks Casey... I have a dremel all ready for the sanding. So a poly varnish will seal the bore more effectively than Waterlox? I wouldn't have known! Is there a poly in particular you would use? Would it also be better for the lower lip of the sink cutout?
User
12 years ago
I have a nearly 50 year old 1/2" Heavy Duty Electric Drill. It has the capability of "braking" a wrist! One must never grab - as in wrap fingers around a handle on a drill such as these.

For the old timers, it is similar to the way we used to "hold" the crank for starting an automobile engine... we'd lay the end of the crank and PUSH down without wrapping our fingers around the handle. Kickback would throw our hands off of the crank.

YMMV