Here's a link to a Loooong discussion on Bob Vila.....Check out poster "Strawberrysales" as a potential supplier........

Here is a link that might be useful: BobVilaForum

Exact replacements? I doubt it.

You've found "industrial switches", however, which tells me you're not looking for exact GE-sourced replacment - just switches/buttons that fit the holes and work.

Radio Shack.

Generic electronics components suppliers: Digi-Key, Mouser Electronics, MCM Electronics, Jameco to name a few.

Surplus/Salvage electronics supplier, such as All Electronics.

I saw some GE low-voltage lighting stuff at a jail once, and have seen the buttons themselves available from either digikey or mouser, can't remember which as I didn't need/want them at the time.

Do not buy your switches at Radio Shack. You will be changing them within 2 years. Radio Shack does not sell any quality switches. They are all cheap junk.

Also ........another resource:

Y a h o o G r o u p s.....GE LV group
The database/files/photos section has scans of original manuals and schematics as well as original advertising scans

and there is a talk forum as well........

(GardenWeb won't allow a direct link)

I have got some prices on used and NOS items but it is expensive when you start talking multiple switches and switch plates.

I have joined the Yahoo group, and am still reading old posts for more info.

I never said Radio Shack, never considered that as a source, frankly never would for this type product.
Been told this Leviton should work http://www.onestopbuy.com/leviton/1256-I-8861.asp But it would require mods or changes to wall boxes as well as plates, plus they are not inexpensive

Still working on trying to find something lest costly!

just replace the wiring already, right from the panel. It'll save a headache in the long run. Use hubbell devices-they'll last forever and are easy to wire.

Switches are mechanical devices. You don't always get what you pay for, but you seldom get what you don't. If you don't want to replace them again in a few years, don't use cheap parts.

The Leviton in your link seems way off base though, grossly oversized and over-spec'ed, and just stylistically wrong for a low voltage system.

"The Leviton in your link seems way off base though, grossly oversized and over-spec'ed, and just stylistically wrong for a low voltage system."

I agree fully which is also why I am searching for other options

"Switches are mechanical devices. You don't always get what you pay for, but you seldom get what you don't. If you don't want to replace them again in a few years, don't use cheap parts."

We ran a family owned machine shop and light manufacturing business for many years, purchased all types of components have learned to look for best value, not always the best price.

KyleDesigns.com

Here is a link that might be useful: Ivory GE RS232 Low Voltage Light Switch

Thinking outside the box?

Here is a link that might be useful: momentary switch w/ face plate & bezel

I recently replaced my GE system and have used parts for sale.

Ivory switch plates:
5 single gang
7 two gang
1 three gang
2 four gang

24 Ivory switches

1 RR7 relay
8 RR8 relays
4 RR8x relays

Not sure if our house's system is the same as yours, but ours used the GE low voltage 2 button switches. Looked into Touchplate, but I hate the feel of them. We replaced the entire system with the switches from www.ttk.com. Much prettier, and we can use standard switchplates from hardware stores instead of buying the custom ones from GE, which saves money in the long run. They aren't cheap, but they'll give you discounts if you buy over certain amounts. My dad's the engineer, so I don't know the specifics of wiring, but I'm happy with them.

I will suggest two different switches you can use with this system.

GE RS232. two button push button switch. Not illuminated. Needs to mounted in a custom plate, also available from GE (online catalogue for part numbers, and then check around with various electrical suppliers)

Pass & Seymour 1250. Momentary contact toggle switch (on)OFF(on). The switch fits a standard switch plate that fits a regular toggle or rocker light switch. 1250 is brown, 1250I ivory, 1250W white.

If you are in the US, you should be able to get either of these switches off the internet for $7 - $8 each.

The relays most common are RR7. This is sometimes followed up by letters. RR7X has long leads. RR7EZ has spade terminal already crimped on. Stay away from RR7P, unless you have one of the new electronic panels - RR7P have a special plug on the end to plug into the new panels.
RR8 has an extra wire for switches that have pilot. (illuminated switch.

Note that the catalogue link is going to show current technology, but the basic system has not changed. It still runs on momentary contact switches and RR7/RR8 relays.

Here is a link that might be useful: GE RR7 catalogue.

Can 12 volt MR16 halogen lamps be run directly off low-voltage wiring? The more common setup is to run them off a transformer connected to 120V or 240V line voltage.

"Can 12 volt MR16 halogen lamps be run directly off low-voltage wiring? "

Low voltage doe NOT mean low current.

MR16 bulbs are available in a number of voltages and watt ratings.
What is th epower capacity of the "low-voltage wiring" supply?

It may well be a transformer and and designed for control wiring and not have a lot of capacity.

Low voltage control wiring gets lot of exemptions, look at a doorbell or thermostat circuit.
The power limited nature of the circuits and low voltage greatly reduce the fire and shock risk.

High power low voltage wiring does not qualify for the low power exemptions.

I have GE low voltage in my home. A great resource I found was Kyle Switch Plates. They even have wiring guides you can reference.

Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.kyleswitchplates.com/ge-low-voltage-lighting/

Kyles is expensive and doesn't accept returns if opened or installed (and doesn't work). Bought their replacement brand, not Remcon or Amprobe.