Software
Houzz Logo Print
techno2006

Wiring for a sub-panel

19 years ago

I have a 200A panel located in a corner of my basement and would like to install a 100A sub-panel in another part of the basement. In order to avoid wiring through a finished part of the basement, I'd like to run part of the wire feeding the sub-panel on the outside of the house.The sub-panel location is about 40'from the main panel. I'd go straight out the wall where the main panel is and then run along the side of the house at about ground level about 20' towards the back of the house and then through the wall into the basement, and another 20' to the sub-panel.

What wire (type and size) and conduit (type and size) should I use?

Thanks

Comments (12)

  • 19 years ago
  • 19 years ago

    Not quite. (Maybe I missed it or else I don't understand it. Could you point to or clarify/explain what the answer is?)

    I would appreciate any specific advice/information that would allow me to purchase the materials that are needed, e.g. wire, conduit and other hardware. I already have a 100A StabLok subpanel. If there is more than one option, please tell me your preference. Also any advice/tips on the installation would be appreciated.

    If any other information about the installation is required, please ask.

    Thanks

  • 19 years ago

    OK, here's my $.02. I'm sure others will give theirs.
    Since you, like I, am in Canada, we don't have THWN individual conductors, at least none that I've ever seen. You want #3 R90XLPE individual wires and an insulated #6 for ground in a PVC sched 80 pipe, or you could use #3 copper TECK cable, which is already insulated and waterproof and requires no pipe. It's thick, stiff, hard to bend, and expensive, but may save you time. For the TECK, no LB's are needed, just 2 holes in your foundation or exterior wall. Since it's not being terminated outside, no special waterproof TECK connectors are required. For PVC, you'll need 1 1/4" with 2 LB's for the 90 degree bends outside. I would go PVC and individual wires. You can find the wire and ground at Home Depot/Rona, but I've only seen sched 40 PVC there. If you want #3 TECK, probably an electrical supply house (Wesco, Eecol, Nedco, Westburne, etc). Any more specifics, ask away.

  • 19 years ago

    Thanks Bigbird.

    I just have a few other questions:

    (1) Does #3 copper TECK cable need to be buried or can it be run along the side of the house just above ground level?

    (2) You mentioned that #3 copper TECK cable is hard to bend. Is any special equipment needed to bend it or can it be done manually?

    (3) Why do you prefer using PVC and individual wires?

    (4) Can #3 R90XLPE or #3 copper TECK cable be supplied via a 100A breaker?

    (5) About 20' of the wiring would be outside and 20' inside. Would you use the same wire inside and out or do you neeed to splice and use a different wire inside? If so, what would you use inside? I'd prefer not to splice.

    Thanks again. Your response was very helpful.

  • 19 years ago

    1) #3 TECK can be run along the house at or just above ground level. It is armored and waterproof.
    2) It is bent manually but the radius of the bend is quite large.
    3) I prefer the PVC and wires because it is a lot cheaper.
    4) Yes, both are good for 100A.
    5) You can use TECK or #3 R90 inside. I would use the R90 in PVC both inside and out in one continuous run with no splices.

  • 19 years ago

    Thanks again.

    Would the code not allow the use of #3/3 non metallic (Romex) cable to be used outside inside a conduit?

    Thanks

  • 19 years ago

    Yes, NM can be run outside in a conduit as long as it's not a "wet" location. NM can't be buried in conduit and can't be exposed to direct moisture. A damp location is OK. NM 3/3 isn't a good choice as it's difficult to work with, difficult to pull, and more expensive than individual wires.

  • 19 years ago

    I have decided to proceed using the 3/3 Tech cable to supply the sub panel.

    What kind of connectors are needed to connect the cable to the main panel and sub panel.

    Thanks

  • 19 years ago

    If the main and sub panels are outside, you need TECK connectors for moisture proofing. In your case only the cable is outside, not the panels, so regular box connectors are fine. You'll need the really big ones. Measure the diameter of the TECK. The bigger knockouts on the panel and subpanel are 1 1/2" or 1 3/4".

  • 19 years ago

    Are you sure you want to use that Stab-Lok panel?

  • 19 years ago

    Actually my main panel is a 25 year old GE panel. The sub-panel is Stab-lok. Some of the material I read suggests that the problems with Stab-lok were for US units and that the Canadian ones (which mine is) were different and did not have the same issues. I guess you never know for sure....

    One question I have about connecting the 3/3 Teck cable to the GE panel is this: The panel has two compartments - the top part where the main 200A breaker is and the bottom part where the rest of the breakers are. Can the Teck cable enter through the top of the panel (in the area where the main breaker is), strip the cable there and run the wires through that top section and into the bottom section to connect to a 100A breaker there? It seems easier to run it through the top rather than one of the sides.

    Thanks for any other comments/suggestions.

  • 19 years ago

    Federal Pioneer (Stablok) in Canada is very different than US Federal Pioneer. They are engineered and built entirely different. They are probably the most popular manufacturer of panels and breakers in Canada. They DO NOT and NEVER DID have the arcing and burning problems that the US company did.

    I'm not familiar with a 25 yo GE panel, but I don't see why you can't have the TECK exit the main panel through the top if the knockouts are there and unused. Maybe someone familiar with the GE panel can comment.