it is NOT a 'spray' RU thing ...

cut anything to the ground ... and apply ... undiluted... full strength RU ... generic is cheaper ... to the edge of the cut stump ... use the very expensive applicator at the link to minimize usage ... to apply it to the cambian layer.. just under the bark ...

the cambian is the circulatory system of the tree .. and it will suck it down into the roots ...

its pretty much a 98% success rate ... but there are a few adamant resprouters... in that case ... snip any suckers and put a drop of RU on the cut .... NEVER let them get too large ... or you just end up.. feeding the root mass.. you are trying to kill ...

even meadows are supposed to be mowed in fall ... and if you intend such.. insure that you cut the stumps low enough... to facilitate such ...

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: link

ken ... do ... you have ... problem with .... autorepeat on your .... keyboard? Or ... a sticky ... period ... key?

I realized that I am skipping your replies because the excessive ... use... makes ... it ... too .... much ..................... effort to .... parse .... the meaning.

The best looking meadow by far that I've seen locally was mowed once a month. Now they only mow in fall, and the meadow is full of poison ivy, brambles and other nasties.

You shouldn't have to 'cut down' trees in a lawn. They automatically get cut down by the lawn mower at a very small size. Over the years, I have killed hundreds of maples, oaks, cherries and hickories. That sort of weed control is something lawn mowers are very good at.

What wants to be there is woodland. Anything else is an artificial human construction that is going to require maintenance. How you want to manage it is up to you.

your safest bet is to mow.

The DNR people sometimes burn around here to mimic the native indian fires and lightning strikes to maintain 'native' praries. I would NOT recommend burning for lots of liability-based reasons.

Burning is out of the question. This area connects to other wooded area and I do not think government would allow it.

Mowing is also out of the question. That area is pretty much a woodland (short trees). Many tree stumps.

First, I need to kill the tree stumps. Then I'll need to prevent the invasives from growing large. Hand pulling the seedlings if I can....

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why did you wait so long to do something about it?
You should have kept it mowed over those 10 years.
good luck!

you might be able to hit it with a brush hog if you have the money. it will shred small trees (and everything else). Or bobcat if you have one - but that is MORE $$$

next best option is maybe a racheting long handled pruner or chainsaw

When we moved in 10 years ago, it was like a meadow
How was it maintained before you moved in? Are we talking about 1/2 acre or 5 acres or what?

It was part of the old farm land, cultivated. I'd think it is about 1 acre. Part of that is in my neighbor's land.

I normally just let the nature run its course. But this has gone too far. The vegetation had grown too dense.

Besides, there are two other area that like that. I spent more of the time with the one close to my house. That is like 600' long farm land windbreak. Some old trees are 50' tall.

I'll need to cut the 3rd area. The red cedar and Callery pears are bring down my fence. I think I cut down a lot of them only two years ago.... Chainsaw and roundup....

In the eastern US, unmowed land will revert to trees. I agree with the person who suggested a brush hog to maintain fields/meadows. Around here DH mowing with a brush hog 2 or 3 times a year is enough to keep fields as fields, though timing in your area may vary. The brush hog will take down small trees and all shrubbery. You can help things out by going out as soon as possible (within hours) after brush hogging and painting brush killer on the cambium (just under the bark) part of the stumps' surface. You can then rehire your brush hog person (at least in my area there are folks who can be hired to do this and will arrive with a small to mid-sized tractor with a pull-behind brush hog) at appropriate intervals to keep the trees from regrowing or you can do it yourself with a heavy duty hand held cutter (like a string trimmer, but with blades) by doing a few hours every weekend.

Well if you let the oaks and hickories grow long enough they eventually outcompete the less desirables like red cedar and pear, and all of those weeds.

Personally I'd do a basal bark treatment (triclopyr and diesel 1:4) on the invasives and leave the "good" ones. There's no way you're going to have a meadow without burning or mowing.

Mowing throughout the season favors the grasses. Mowing or burning at the end of the season encourages wildflowers. Either technique should be enough to keep out shrubs and trees.

Mowing throughout the season favors the grasses. Mowing or burning at the end of the season encourages wildflowers. Either technique should be enough to keep out shrubs and trees.

Unless you plan on spending several days, your best bet is to gradually remove the unwanted items and encourage the good stuff.

I have a similar area, I started out by removing the obvious brush and the started on the selection process. Using an axe or a Mattock I removed some of the trees, so I could easily walk through the area, Once I got those paths clear I started mowing the paths.

I have a Club Cadet string trimmer with a brush blade. I periodically make trips through the area with the brush blade taking out trees and brush I did not want. As I work the area, the paths become wider.

While the area is not what I want, It looks a lot better than when I started, and I have not expended much sweat at any one time. I have found a very nice oak that I have encouraged and it is now become a nice looking tree. There are several other trees that are becoming quite nice. One day this will be a nice wooded area.

Remember, that the nice looking wooded area that you admire did not become that way itself. It takes a lot of work and time to keep a Natural area looking Natural.