How tall do they need to be?

I think they should be at least around 20 feet. Is there a concern with going over 30' as that's the distance to the house in the chance of severe storms (which we get in TN) knocking them down?

The smallest plants that will still give you the privacy you need is a good idea, because that way maintenance is easier, and potential root damage is much less. If 20' is a good size, do not limit your search to trees, but look also at large shrubs (a large shrub can be 30' tall). When you say "evergreen" is it conifers you dislike? Or do you just want no leaves in the winter to allow for more winter sun?

Wax Myrtle grows fast here. You could probably find some fairly large ones at a nursery. It's turns into a tall wide shrub.

I suppose it's more confers than evergreens. For example I absolutely love various magnolias that are evergreen for the most part down here.

I do have a new Sweetbay Magnolia I just planted to the left of the photo which is about 5-6 feet tall, and have considered planting a few more along the pictured fence line - I'm just not clear how quickly the grow. Do you think they would work?

For examples of other trees that I love the *look* of, but have concerns about planting would be the following. They all out of the question or could any be acceptable.

-Gingko (height issue?)
-River birch (height/shallow roots damaging parking strip?)
-Sourwood (supposedly very slow growth rate?)
-Sunburst Honeylocust (LOVE this one but unclear if resistant to high wind/ice that we get down here?)

Hamamelis x intermedia 'Arnold Promise', or 'Jelena' other cultivars. May be hard to find tree trained and large enough.

20 feet, and super easy maintenance. Good fall color. Winter flowers.

Oh, and Heptacodium miconioides. Great late summer to autumn flowers. Great bark. Fast grower, but doesn't get huge.

Oh, and sorry, thinking of these one at a time. Chimonanthus praecox.

Go with the broad-leaf evergreen idea. Plant more than one kind, in a mixed border instead of a row of one kind. There are evergreen forms of sweet-bay and other eastern natives that might work, as well as those of foreign origin that can grow in your region. If there is an independent garden center of some size in the area - and they know what they are doing - they will have stuffed any unsold broad-leaf evergreens into covered buildings for the winter (to keep the roots from freezing). It should be easy to differentiate these at this time of the year, since they will still be in leaf.

Not all conifers have the same 'look & feel.' Compare:

1.) A common pine tree of some sort.

2.) Colorado blue spruce.

3.) Boulevard False Cypress.

4.) Golden Hinoki False Cypress.

5.) Arborvitae (most any; say Emerald Green if you need a named cultivar, or maybe Green Giant).

Each of those plants has a drastically different leaf look & feel, and the form of the tree can vary a good deal.

I don't think most any tree is going to rapidly shoot up to 20 feet, stop, and be strong wooded.

Some holly trees are another evergreen option for people who don't like the 'conifer look.' Some magnolias dump a bunch of big leaves that aren't real attractive sitting on a lawn; something to think about if you consider a row of them.

Do you need all one species?

I've read black gum grows slow, but mine (I think Wildfire, with pretty reddish spring growth) seems rather fast. Should get big but not huge.

I've taken a liking to some Chinese (a.k.a. Lacebark) Elm, with pretty peeling back; I believe that's what I'm seeing some of at Nashville Zoo, and if you're in TN, you might check them out. I planted the 'Alee' cultivar of lacebark elm in my backyard.

I like Ginkgo, but it can sit a couple of years after planting before it even starts growing, and then at a moderate, not fast, rate from what I've read. I've got 2, one starting to kick in a bit and the other slow to do much (been in the ground at least 2 years; maybe 3?).

Is that fence close to the property line? Is it a big concern whether the overhead tree canopy extends much over the neighbors yard? If so, then some of the big trees with wide canopies might not be a great match.

Richard.

Thanks for the suggestions.

I don't require them to all be the same, variety could be nice.

No worries about the fence line as the other side is also my property (a paved parking strip).

#1) The first step in overcoming your fears is to admit you have them.

#2) Get a bit of therapy

#3) Then look to plant some broad-leafed evergreens, such as hollies (Oakland, Fosters, Koehnes, etc.), Magnolias (Alta, Greenback, Little Gem, etc.) and maybe Photinia.

Rather than putting them along the fence, you might try an arbor or trellis or small trees placed close to the house to block the view. it's faster.

Wait until you see where their windows are and figure out exactly hwere you need the screening. You'll have time when you see the framing for the windows to figure out something.

Plant whatever you personally like first of all. My privacy walls are composed of... Magnolia grandifloras (of different cultivars),
photinias, hollys, Cherry laurels, butterfly bushes (evergreen to deciduous depending on your Winter conditions), Bald Cypress, and a large island planting of Eastern Hemlocks.

P.S., I read repeatedly that Gingkos are slow. Personally, have not experienced them as that slow, just that they do not produce a dense shade or any real privacy...which can be a BIG advantage in some locations depending on your needs.

The height of the trees depends upon what you want to shield from view.

If shielding the entire yard from view, you have a big challenge locating trees that will do what you want.

If to shield a patio near the house, the trees and or physical barrier should be relatively near the patio. In this instance, the height of the "shield" will much lower than that near the fence line.

You might want to consult with a landscape designer to learn your options.

Thanks all for the replies.

I will say that I need them along the fence line as I also want to block out views into my upstairs window. I can already tell that's going to be a problem from watching the construction. It's a pre-fab house going up so it's going to be up real quick.

I'm assuming at this point, regardless of what I end up choosing I'm going to have to wait til spring to plant? Or are our winters in middle Tennessee considered mild enough to plant mid-winter to get roots established, etc?

As long as the soil is workable, should not be a problem for conifers or deciduous trees. For broadleaved evergreens (hollies, magnolias, etc.) may be better to wait till Spring. If we get a normal Winter, should not be a problem, but normal seems to be increasingly rare.

I am going to follow this and also comment because I have a similar situation. We are in Western NC and desperately need some privacy trees because the neighbors yard is essentially connected to ours after both of us did backyard renovations. We hired a landscape design company to install a new 1300 square foot paver patio and retaining wall and they did a DIY deck extension which is still not finished a year later. We also took out the Crepe Myrtles between our homes because they were diseased and I don’t care for those anyway. Now our yard is connected to theirs and we are only 30 feet away from them and of course we all want to use our newly renovated backyards. I was also irrationally attached to planting an evergreen hedge (either arborvitae, juniper, Italian cypress). I wanted 15x4 coverage but I just realized it would block our southern exposure- THIS is most likely why the builder used the deciduous trees we removed. So now I need recommendations for privacy trees in this area that won’t completely block our sunlight. TIA.