when the floor was installed, there should have been a header at the doorway. and putting one in, you can cut/rip the header so you don't need a grout line, you can still do this but this requires some carpenter's skill. do you still have the hickory flooring?

OUCH. The finish work leaves a lot to be desired and there is no way to fix this nicely without redoing a lot of what is all ready in place. If you just set the marble transition I would rip it out.

The door casings should be replaced with new ones. If you cut the jamb as well then I would be replacing or repairing that.

Ideally the transition is under the door not 4" in front of it.

You would have been better off starting the first row of tile a 1/4" bathroom side of the middle of the door in closed position and then doing a hardwood transition in two parts from the opposite side. I do not know the fascination with marble transitions - it appears online so many people try this.

There is more info in this article

[TRANSITION TIME: HOW TO CONNECT TILE AND HARDWOOD FLOORS[(https://www.houzz.com/magazine/transition-time-how-to-connect-tile-and-hardwood-floors-stsetivw-vs~13643718)

Link URL: [https://www.houzz.com/magazine/transition-time-how-to-connect-tile-and-hardwood-floors-stsetivw-vs~13643718[(https://www.houzz.com/magazine/transition-time-how-to-connect-tile-and-hardwood-floors-stsetivw-vs~13643718)

You could install a plinth block on each side to kill both the door casing and the baseboard. Something like this.

The block would need to be thicker than both your casing and your baseboard.

Thanks for all your responses.

1. I will replace the door casing once I am done dealing with the transition issue.

2. The problem with the transition piece and its resolution depends a lot on whether I can safely remove the piece - I installed it (and the tiles about 8 months ago) so it certainly is firmly seated. So, is it possible to remove it, without doing much damage to the surrounding tiles?

3. If i can remove it, then I want to proceed as follows (please see figure below for directions):

.

(i) Once I remove the transition piece, I will extend the tile from the bathroom (I still have extras left) by 2" into the doorway (see "A" above).

(ii). Note, the laminate planks were not finished evenly either .. "C" is a bit wider (about 1/2", while "D" is a bit tighter, about 1/8". So, I will first straighten the laminate ends by trimming it evenly at the "C" level.

(iii) Extend the laminate tiles to cover "B", using a 2.5" horizontal plank.

(iv) Alternatively, I will just replace the marble transition strip with a slightly wider one (about 4.5").

(4) But If I am unable to / or it is not advisable to remove the transition strip safely, then, I will even out the gab between the transition, and the laminate tile, and use the caulk as suggested to cover any residual gaps.

thanks again and please, let me know your thoughts on my plans

thanks - Oyiwaa

I didn't know it was laminate, is the laminate floating, or glued down?

if its floating, you don't want anything butted up to it, even grout, you need an over lap reducer or t moulding, to cover the laminate but to also allow for expansion.

OK .... it is indeed a floating laminate - so what kind of T-Moulding or lap reducer would you suggest ?

Did you install the laminate? do you know the manufacture? I shoudnt be too hard to find one, that will match, I would find one that's made of wood, or even if the manufacture offers one.

Floating means the entire floor wants to move as One piece. and by butting it tight against the tile, or even having the grout stop the movement, you will run into issues with expansion and contraction.

Yes, I installed the laminate, and it is the Honey Maple Harmonics with the Uniclick design (see: http://www.costco.com/Harmonics-Honey-Maple-Flooring.product.100145467.html).

it is not an entirely one piece design - but a series of planks that one joins together .

HTH - Oyiwaa

When the person above refereed to "moves as one piece" he did not mean it was all one piece, but that floating floors, like laminates, when installed together will all move as if they are one, so you have to have an expansion gap all around the perimeter or the floor will buckle. That is the same reason you cannot fasten things like cabinets on top of floating floors. Unfortunately places like Costco usually do not have matching transitions available, that is part of why they can offer the product so cheap. Your best bet is to find a local flooring retailer and take a small piece in to see if they can match it.

Oshawa, you do realize the post is two and a half years old, right?

yes, i noticed that after i posted but i figured there is no harm in having the info out there for other people to see anyhow :)

Yes, the internet is forever! Fascinating how often people on forums think the info in only valuable in real time. How many times have you looked for something online and found the answer in an "old" forum? Lots, I'd bet. Can't wait to read further responses in 20 years. Some technology is obsolete in a month. Tiling techniques? The same ones will be around for a while yet, just like this old-timey winky emoji ;-)

THANK YOU, tjndesign! I often rely on old information, as some continues to be relevant. A question about a craft such as tiling floors and transitions between rooms is a timeless issue some of us will encounter at any given point, so I'm grateful to find old posts with fresh updates.