Do these leaves show any problems?

11 years ago

This is my first garden, and I may be overreacting to some of these leaves, but I was hoping someone wouldn't mind looking at these 5 pictures and telling me if there is anything I should be worried about or anything I should do to fix the problem, or if these are normal leaves.

1) This is a sugar snap pea, and the one leave looks to be almost torn in half (In the red box), maybe just deformed or maybe a bug eating it or maybe normal. Sorry I couldn't get a super clear image of the damaged leaf.

2) These are Bush Beans. The one leaf looks to be wilting (though we did just have a big rain over night followed by all-day sun that day....could the leaf have burnt?) Also this same plant has a couple holes in the leaves.

3) This is my MAIN worry. This is an Early Girl tomato plant. I have multiple tomato plants (different varieties), and this is the only one that has these black spots. You can see it is on the leaves and even on the branch (not sure of the name) leading to those leaves. In this picture you can tell (kind of) that this isn't bothering nearby leaves. This is near the very bottom of the plant.

4) Is it normal for the bottom stem of a Pepper plant to harden like this?

This is a zucchini plant. Is that 'white' normal on the leaves? It is also noticed in picture 1 (top) on my peas too.

Thank you so much to anyone who can offer help!!

I should also tell you that I sent a soil sample earlier this week to my state university and they suspect I should hear back sometime next week. Though some of these issues may need to be addressed sooner than that (hopefully not).

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Comments (8)

vgkg Z-7 Va
11 years ago
Partial answers :

Zuke leafs with whitish or silvery colors is normal.

Pepper trunk getting "barky" appears normal (but keep an eye on it).

Pea & bean leaf damage appears to be pest chewing related.

Tomato leaf damage - not sure of cause (early blight?) but not good, would remove dying leaf/stem.
digdirt2
11 years ago
Agree that all except the tomato leaf are within normal garden parameters and of minimal concern. Just remove the damaged leaves and check for leaf-munching insects. The tomato is septoria leaf spot (Google it). Remove the branch and dispose of away from the garden and monitor plants. If seems to be spreading consider using a fungicide.

Most importantly all your plants need to be mulched.

Dave
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m_gold
Original Author
11 years ago
Thank you for your comments. I made a new post about the tomatoes here: http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3139393/m=23/is-this-septoria-on-my-tomatoes

After looking more closely, I am worried about my plants based on how many leaves have septoria.
digdirt2
11 years ago
It is one of the 2 most common tomato diseases and the recommended treatment is remove the affected foliage and begin a regular spraying program with the fungicide of your choice. If you leave the infected branches on the plant it only spreads the disease to the rest of the plants via air borne dispersion of the spores.

Dave
m_gold
Original Author
11 years ago
Dave,

On that other link I have one pic of those black spots on the stem. Is that a point of no return for me? Can the fruit still be eaten from such a plant when it matures?
digdirt2
11 years ago
Point of no return? Not at all. That is what the fungicides are for - to control any on the stems and to protect the leaves that aren't yet infected. And yes the fruit can still be eaten.

Normally all branches with leaves that touch the ground are removed when planted to prevent soil splash back. The plants are also well mulched, not left in bare ground where soil dwelling organisms can have easy access to them. Both go a long way toward preventing the common tomato diseases.

But once the diseases develop fungicides and removing infected leaves is the best way to stay ahead of it.

Dave

PS: it would be a big help to all of us if you would complete the zone/location box on your profile page so that it is automatically attached to each of your posts. Many garden issues are specific to only some parts of the country and having that info is helpful in many ways.
m_gold
Original Author
11 years ago
Dave, thank you, I updated the information. I am in zone 6 (though not sure if i am A or B).

Are there any fungicides you can recommend? This is one I found on a search, and while I am sure you cannot know all details about every fungicide, is there any problem you can find with this one? http://www.amazon.com/Agra-Quest-Serenade-RTU-32/dp/B000FOMRUC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1434031872&sr=8-3&keywords=Serenade And is this 32oz enough for 4 tomato plants, or will I need more If i apply often for the next 3-4 months?

I pruned every leaf with septoria and pruned every leaf that was touching the soil. (I sure hope these plants still grow, there were quite a few leaves I pruned on one of the tomato plants)

I will be adding mulch to my garden tomorrow or this weekend. My garden is a raised bed and only 32 square feet, are there any bags of mulch that can be purchased, and if so, are there any kinds I should search for?
digdirt2
11 years ago
If you browse through all the discussions here on mulching the garden you'll find that straw or hay is the most commonly recommended, shredded leaves and pine straw are others. Wood chip mulch is far down the list as it can create nitrogen binding and decomp issues. But if that is all one has available it is far better than nothing. Just don't mix it in with the soil and keep it at least an inch or so back from the stem of the plant. All the details are in many of the previous discussions so i won't retype it all here.

Fungicides - again 100s of discussions here and on the tomato forum about them the search will pull up. So some research is required. Daconil is reported to be the most effective but it isn't organic, Serenade is the most common recommended organic brand and many prefer one of the many copper based fungicides. The choice is yours.

Dave