some cats like to scratch a post, some like to do a mat. you'll see soon enough what your little dear prefers.

Thanks to all of you for your good suggestions. As far as rugs with loops, I'll need to put away all my Claire Murray rugs. I used my strong vacuum cleaner on one rug, and it sucked up the end of one of the yarns, and I had to reweave it. Luckily, my wall-to-wall carpet doesn't have loops (I just checked that out). I'm also concerned about cords and cables, because I understand some cats/kittens like to chew cords. I have lots of cords and cables.

I definitely need to get rid of a lot of the stuff I have on surfaces.

Since my vanity area is open to the hallway, if I get a kitten, I'll need to put up a baby gate or get a big crate and put the litter box inside, as one of you recommended. Do you suggest an open or covered litter box?

Everything rccheryl said^. Excellent ideas to be found in Galaxy's book and Kate's hauspanther.com website. Cats (most) like to climb and feel secure up high. Provide places where your baby be up, a ledge or a shelf. There are ways to attractively integrate climby high things in your decor.

Also, we covered a piece of plywood, about 2' x 3' with leftover carpet. It's simply propped against a wall and goes in the closet when we entertain. Between that and a regular post, we've had no problem with scratching inappropriately. PLEASE do not declaw.

Thanks for your recommendations. I'll definitely check them out. Also, I won't declaw kitty, but I'll make sure to clip her nails and provide a good scratching post and a place to climb (maybe a cat tree).

There's really a lot to think about. I want to provide a good, safe home for kitty.

Hi, we have two cats and a dog. The cats love to scratch. Scratching posts are a must. Don't be discouraged when that loving little kitten does anything you are not proud of, just keep saying "no".

So all these suggestions are great.

we put our litter box into a large cardboard box, we cut off the top and cut a 15" opening down one side to about 6" from the bottom. upshot, most of the litter stays in the cardboard box, she has some privacy (some cats are skittish), we dont have to look at a litter box, and its easy to reach in to scoop. having a piece of leftover carpeting as a doormat gets the rest of the litter off of her paws on exiting.

nnigrt: Thanks for the suggestion about the cardboard box. I have plenty of those, and that might work in my guest vanity area.

It is a good idea to look a the shelter for an indoor cat who may be older and already de- clawed. It is very exhausting trying to train a kitten not to claw the edge of sofa or chairs or climb up the curtains.
A cat box does not need a roof or box over it. Sometimes it will inhibit the cat 's positioning himself comfortably to go, which may cause them not to use it at all. Be sure to clean it everyday, even twice a day if you can. Your cat will appreciate it.
Also be prepared to pay for shots and exams for a long time. My cat was 16 1/2 when she passed away. She was very well cared for and my vet was the best.

I like the idea of the carpet outside the box. I used an old towel and I just moved the box, and shook all the litter back into box that she tracked out. Then kept a dustpan and brush to clean the floor. They really are messy. I am sorry... I miss her, but not the cleaning up everyday

Our kitten started clawing at my new chairs so I wrapped Glad Press 'n Seal plastic wrap around the bottom until (1) she learned that was a no-no and (2) I learned what else she could scratch on. She just left it alone and I wasn't always having to chase her off.

Ohhhhh... Cats. I'll tell you about my sweet cute kitten that got inside my bedroom closet. She peed on my wedding shoes, ruined. I heard something in the closet and opened to look, she was climbing up my silk wedding dress.
And that was an indoor/outdoor cat, so it wasn't like she was pent up. There's still claw marks in the drywall, she literally climbed the walls.
So if you can put up with a cats worst behaviour go for it.

I have a huge cat and he likes to go in the litter box by leaning off the side of it, so a cover over it would not work. Cats like to have space to move around, so I'm not to keen on the litter boxes with a cover.

Thanks so much for all the additional comments. They are very helpful to me. I know I'll need to change my entire lifestyle if I get a kitten or cat. My other problem is that I have cat allergies, so I've been looking at the Siberian breed.

You're deluding yourself about "hypoallergenic" animals. The allergy trigger is in the saliva of the cat, not the fur.

If your things are more important than the living being that you think you want to share your life with, then you are a poor candidate for a pet owner. Owning a pet is a committment to the animal, in both training time, and monetary expense. Some people are not suited to that committment. They are the ones that think that they can adapt the animal to them, rather than adapting their life to the animal. My 20 year old is blind, deaf, and senile, and needs help to clean herself. That's what you bargain for when you go looking for a cute little kitten. It's a lifetime committment.

I understand what you are saying; however, I do have allergy reactions to cats and dogs (I recently had allergy tests also).

I visited the home of a Siberian breeder, spent about an hour there, met her cats and kitten, pet all of them, and I had no allergy reactions at all. I want to do everything I can to make the kitty or cat comfortable in my home, and that's why I asked questions about how to do that. I'm perfectly willing to put away things that might cause problems, cover my sofas and chairs, do something with my electrical cords, etc. I've never had a kitty or cat before, so that's why I asked opinions of Houzz members.

1. "Siberian: Like the Balinese, the Siberian sports a moderately long coat, but still is hypoallergenic due to the lower-than-average enzyme levels in their saliva. Some claim that 75 percent of cat allergy sufferers have no reaction to the Siberian."

So, what's Plan B when you get this kitten home and have an allergic reaction? Medications? Rehoming? That is something that you have to think about in advance of the adoption. There are plenty of shelter animals needing homes that could fill that spot in your home without resorting to hyped bunkum from a party interested in separating you from a lot of money.

Two litter pan thoughts: a covered box can keep the smells to a minimum, and any young cat will learn to use it with no problem -- leaners just lean out the door! Also, we got a welcome mat (the indoor kind) to put in front of it -- they're great for collecting gravel bits, which you can shake off periodically. Plus, decor! :)

Cats just love the corrugated cardboard scratchers and they are easily replaceable when they get less than pretty. Smells are kept to a minimum by actually cleaning the boxes twice a day. In the past we found that putting bulbs of garlic and citrus peel under furniture was a scratching deterent. Good luck with your kitty.

Thanks so much, acm. I plan to get a covered box, that I can convert to an open box if necessary. Can you recommend a good one that kitty/cat would like, and would be easy for me to clean (I have arthritis)?

These are our compromise between covered vs. open litter boxes. Being so deep, litter doesn't get scattered about and there's

ample space inside for them to turn and maneuver. One cat often straddles the top and it's "bombs away...".

kp7250: Oh boy, where did you get these litter boxes? Where do you keep them in your house? Do you keep them on carpet -- it's hard to tell from your photo. I only have hard flooring in my tiny kitchen, dinky bathrooms, vanities and narrow hallway. Also, they look awfully big if I get a kitten. Maybe I should try a smaller size until the kitten gets bigger. However, I've read that it's not wise to change out the litter box (unless the same one gets replaced).

These came from PETCO but other pet stores would have them. Made by CLEVERCAT. 20"L x15"W x15" H. Probably too big for you? We keep them in the as-yet unfinished basement on a cement floor. When we got our newest kitten, we thought he was too tiny to navigate the steps and hop into the box so we put litter in a plastic shoebox upstairs. Within a few days, he was following the big guys down to the basement and doing his business in the big boxes.

Thanks so much for the suggestion. I may not have room for this size (height of 15", because the space I was planning on using is 25" high), but I'll definitely check it out. I have a PetCo or PetsMart not far from me. Do you use the liners?

I know there are many who disagree, but I suggest declawing a young kitten. I had a new home and would not have rescued two kittens unless they could be declawed. My vet agreed that declawing was better for the kittens than death on the street. And they haven't ruined anything in the house. They don't know they don't have claws. Of course, we never let them outside and they have never escaped.

No to declawing. You need a new vet!

I won't declaw my kitty or cat. I'll make sure to use nail clippers on a regular basis, and give kitty a scratching post to use. I was told to use a spray bottle with water if I see kitty trying to scratch the furniture. There's some stuff I can spray (Bitter Apple, I think) or put on the furniture if kitty decides he/she wants to scratch there.

No to declawing (of course the kitten knows it has no claws). If you like the litter boxes pictured by kp7250 but in a different size, just use any lidded Rubbermaid-type container and cut a hole in the top. As for having a plan B, I was very allergic to cats but when I inherited 2 of them, my allergies went away. Same with a friend. If your allergies trigger asthma attacks, however, I would not risk it.

I commend you on all the thought and prep work you are putting into making a safe home for your new pet.

Another trick I use is to put fluffy blankets, they can be the new fake materials from walmart etc., on the furniture, especially if you find a spot the kitten adores. my male can be impossible about these things sometimes. When stretches up, and sticks his claws in, the whole thing comes down. Has to be loose. but works, remove for company or old enough to know better, or lost interest. Those big boxes with the big holes look like plastic storage totes. you can get a better size, just remember has to grow with the kitten. there are many things you can hack. i tried all sorts of carriers, Caroline chewed through all. Now they go in cheap round laundry baskets, black garbage bag across the bop with the gray tape men like. Not a peep! I think it is that they can see out in all directions?

I have so many cords in my condo (lamp cords, cable cords, extension cords). Do you have any suggestions on what I can do to contain these cords? There aren't a lot of electrical outlets where I live, and the outer walls are concrete, so it's hard to add outlets there. So I wind up using extension cords, and I know that can be a safety hazard, plus it looks awful. Also, I don't want kitty chewing on the cords or getting tangled up in them.

You can purchase cord organizers to corral them with. Look for a stiff, contained style ( not clips, or flexible hose). You can find them listed under cable channel, cable raceway. cord floor protector, and/or cable management box. Depending on your load you may want to consider more than one type, to keep things neat and dust free.

studio10001: Thanks for the good suggestions. I'll check them out for sure. When I was working we had lots of cords in our workspaces, and sometimes cord floor protectors were used. They aren't particularly good-looking, but they did the trick. Loose cords don't look good either. Then, I have Comcast cables strung throughout my condo.

new type of cord organizer

also saw where someone put a multi plug out let attached to inside of desk drawer, plugged everything in there.

I plan to replace my queen size Ethan Allen sleeper sofa with a regular queen size sofa, that will be easier for me to move. Also, I don't need a sleeper sofa any longer. The sleeper sofa I have now is in excellent condition (fabric, mattress, etc.), but it is a pastel floral Chintz.

I want to get a new sofa in a fabric that will be cat and owner-friendly. I don't want anything that kitty's claws would get caught in (like a tweed or loop fabric), but I'd also like something that will look nice in a living room, and will be durable. Any suggestions?

Anything with an even, tight weave is good- microfiber, canvas and velvet are top contenders.

My friends swear by their clever cat top entry litter boxes. Arm and Hammer Clump and Seal litter is absolutely top notch -- both of my cats adore it (I've tried at least 8 types of litter over the past 10 years, and this is the best for clumping and minimizing odors. You will want a metal scoop with holes. I love the DurAnimals DuraScoop Original Cat Litter Scoop.
http://www.chewy.com/cat/duranimals-durascoop-original-cat/dp/47317

My cats love cat dancers - especially the girl cat ($1.99) - it's a springy wire with cardboard twists strung on it.
http://www.chewy.com/cat/cat-dancer-original-cat-toy/dp/49383

The boy cat's favorite toy of all time is Rosie the Rat (a.k.a. the Flat Rat)
http://www.thecatconnection.com/cat/Rosie-Rat.html

Cats are pure carnivores & to prevent bladder stones and crystals it is important to use a grain free diet with a minimum of ingredients. My rescue girl cat is prone to developing bladder crystals and it is heartbreaking - she had to have surgery on her bladder to remove them, she had bladder infections, bloody urine, and she would urinate outside the box. Since I switched to grain free, she has not had a recurrence and ALWAYS uses the litter. I use NOW (for dry), and Natural Balance limited ingredient formula wet (Salmon & Green Pea, Duck & Green Pea, Venison & Green Pea). If you have softened water, I recommend purchasing gallons of filtered drinking water for the cat. My cats didn't drink much water when I used tap water -- now that I've switched to filtered bottled water, they drink lots and lots of water (another way to prevent bladder stones & crystals - the solution to pollution is dilution, according to my Vet).

You will want to get their teeth cleaned every year or every other year (depending on the amount of tartar they generate). My cats do not build up tartar quickly, so every other year is sufficient.

I have never hidden or put away any of my items -- my cats are exceptionally careful, have lots of toys, and do not spend time knocking things off flat surfaces. I got both cats at the same time from the animal shelter -- he was a 10 week old kitten, and she was 2 years old (and had bladder crystals when I got her). HOWEVER, despite ample scratching posts, mine decided that woven fabric chairs are great targets for scratching :-( - bitter apple spray and spray bottles with water are a godsend. I ended up reupholstering everything in velvet, since they're not interested in sharpening on velvet. I never tried crating - it sounds like an interesting idea.

new microfiber couch, still of interest to master solo. Can mix regular baking soda in with regular kitty litter for much the same effect. Many of hacks are due to allergies. I always liked mixing, reg kitty litter with clumping. no need to dump it all everyday, only the parts that clump then pour some more clumping in. If you can get your cat to use it, same as newspaper litter or pine, use chicken feed or horse stable stuff. Sorry, oxygen loss. these are under $10 at feed store - used by rescue ops. the store probably knows. cheapest and best way to avoid crystals, letting the kitty out, totally cured 2 kitties this way - don't all yell at once. Often feeding people grade meat is cheaper. Ours get high protein dry, split one can of canned (read side of can low in protein). and the 3 are now 13 so they are getting more and more meat, if nothing else canned tuna or chicken, low salt if possible. a can last 3 or more days. the only fish they get is in the human tuna. fish is not in the normal cat diet. I know now that your head is swimming, get out there and get some love.

Thanks to all for the additional information. Yes, my head is swimming. I didn't realize there was so much to learn, but it's worth it. I'd rather have this information beforehand and be aware. I want to provide a good home for kitty.

having fun: I have softened water, but I also have a reverse osmosis system for filtered water. I'll be sure to use the filtered water for my kitty/cat.

I didn't realize there was so much to learn, but I really appreciate your suggestions (and those of others). I've bookmarked the links you provided and other links that have been posted.

Make sure you give kitty only DISTILLED water. It is mineral free, and minerals are what cause kidney stones/crystals. My cat had a terrible time with that until I switched about ten years ago. No problem since.

Also, the issue for me with clumping litter is the obnoxious perfumed smell. It's in all brands. But I finally found one at Wal Mart, it's their own brand, that does not contain any perfume. Remember, when kitty is washing his face he is licking that chemical stuff off his paws and ingesting it. Ugh.

Also, I got both my cats from a breeder. I understand the wisdom of getting a shelter cat, but I did this not because I wanted a cat that looked a certain way, but a cat that had a certain personality. And in both cases it worked perfectly. My cat is a Himalayan, and they are known for being fabulous companions. He is always with me, "helps" me around the house, talks to me nonstop, and in general possesses every personality trait I was hoping for. He wasn't cheap but was worth every penny and more! So to each his own, but please know there is nothing wrong with using a breeder. I knew their history, which is important. Sometimes shelters are not truthful in that regard. That happened to my sister - turned out the cat she got had been to four other homes and returned because she would not learn to use the litter box. My sister returned her, and the next day the cat was back on the shelter's website with a completely new story from the one she had when my sister got her!

Finally, and I know this can be a hot button issue with cat lovers, I did front-declaw my cat. He was impossible when it came to clawing furniture. Nothing worked. My vet pointed out that it's better to declaw than for kitty to spend his life getting yelled at and squirted. That was almost 17 years ago and I've never been sorry. My little man is old and a bit senile now, but supremely happy and very well loved!

P.S. As I was preparing for my first cat, I was exactly like you - worried about every little detail! But don't stress too much, cats are smart and adaptable. My first one died way too early from kidney failure (remember, DISTILLED water!) but it took us only a few days to get acclimated after I got her. She was five years old when she came to me. Maybe a slightly older kitty would be good for you too.

Good luck and enjoy your new kitty!

If you do try to feed human food to provide the 100% protein they need, you're going to have to buy a range of organ meats and cat vitamin supplements in order to ensure that the cat gets all the vitamins and minerals they need (like taurine, which is generally stored in the brains of prey animals). I considered making food for the cats, but when I saw what was involved, I concluded that the expensive food made sense. Given the elimination of tartar, vet visits, and health problems (she is now 12 and he is 10), I feel pretty confident that my vet's advice was spot on.

My vet was a holistic vet and she recommended against using American chicken- or beef-based foods given the amount of antibiotics and hormones they are given -- she didn't even recommend canned foods made from chicken or beef. Turkey is generally OK.

"Going outside" is probably helping to supplement kitty's vitamin and water needs (prey items are 90% water, after all). If your cats leave you headless presents on the doorstep, I guarantee that they're looking for taurine. Still, given the family of foxes that live in my back yard and the amount of traffic outdoors, I'd vote against allowing cats outdoors.

The reason I recommend the very expensive litter is that I tried a LOT of litter & it took a long time to find one that BOTH cats enjoyed using. For cat owners with multiple cats, there should be 1 more litter box than there are kitties & they should be spread out so that the alpha cat cannot block access to the other cats (cats are quite territorial). In a multi-level home, having a litter box on each floor (even if there is only one kitty) is recommended as well.

If I'm only getting one cat, will I need two litter boxes? The reason I ask is that I have room for one litter box on laminate flooring; however, I'd need to put the second litter box on carpet. I suppose I could put a mat under the litter box on carpet. Do any of you have a litter box on carpet; and if so, how do you handle that?

I'll use Distilled water (not reverse-osmosis filtered water) for kitty. Thanks for the suggestion. I certainly don't want kitty to get stones.

I know many people are against me doing this, but I plan to get a kitty/cat from a breeder. I have cat allergies (not severe), but I have found I am not allergic to the Siberian breed. If I don't get a kitten, I may get a retired female cat (6 years old), but she won't be available until after the first of the year. She is very gentle and loving, well-behaved, doesn't scratch the furniture (uses the scratching post), and is meticulous about using the litter box.

I only have one litter box for my cat. He is very good about using it. My home is under 2000 square feet, so if yours is larger you might want to have two. When I had my Persian, she was prone to accidents so I had two boxes. I think she was just lazy! Litter box on carpet will be messy, but it's just a quick vacuum. You could also place it on top of a throw rug so you can just take it outside and shake it off. It won't matter to kitty just as long as she has privacy!

have had up to four cats, all family has one or more, never needed more than one box, just clean regularly. I don't know anything about special water, but will try, got to get it for my oxygen anyway. Yes, that is why i think going outside works, but i believe i stated i give a good dry food, and daily one can, for all used to be two, but they seem now to prefer a few bites of meat instead. Reason for nonexpensive cat litter is as with cbailie, i have allergies to smelly things. i actually think I could live in the town dump, as long as there is no mold and mildew, would not like it, but most "clean" places give me allergic reactions. cr don't mind us, when it comes to pets, everyone has a definitive opinion, I am sure you will be the same someday. lol

About getting a retired adult, that's what I did with my Persian and it was such a wonderful experience! They are so happy to just be loved and pampered. I don't think that's how life is in a cattery. It took her awhile to trust me, but it was so worth it. Now THAT is the true definition of saving a cat!!!

mom has an older cat too. all of mine have been rescues too. love it , love it, love it. the one that had the problem, listed above, was probably physical, rarely but sometimes, emotional. Face it, 4 times adopted, gotta get to you!

The retired female Siberian I would get is from a home-based breeder. The cats/kittens are all well-socialized. The cats came up on the sofa to visit me, and let me pet them. The kitty was only 5 weeks old, so she didn't want to sit on my lap very long (maybe 5 seconds, ha), but she was curious, and sniffed my hand. The breeder said none of the cats scratched her furniture. They had their own rooms in her house, but would come out individually (single mom, mom and kitten) and mingle with family and guests.

If you do get a retired cat, it's in your best interest to ask the breeder what brand of food and brand of litter she is used to -- you can avoid tummy and litter troubles if you stick with what she is used to. A litter box on carpet isn't a great idea -- with one cat in a condo, you might be able to get by with just one box.

Getting kitties from a breeder is a great choice, so there's no judgement here. Spaying and neutering is the most important thing -- so there won't be unloved/unwanted kittens in the future. If you feel comfortable with your breeder (no close interbreeding, well-treated, well-socialized kitties), then you're going to have a lovely pet.

The breeder sent me a list of what she uses for her cats and kittens (food, litter, toys, etc.). Plus with what everyone here has suggested, I'll have lots of good information, and I'll be prepared for kitty or cat. Thanks again to all of you for taking the time to give me your suggestions!