Kitchen remodel electrical wiring

11 years ago

Hi all,

Starting a kitchen remodel project, which I will be tackling on my own, including doing the electrical work. My state (MN) and local governments have adopted NEC 2014 as code, so I've been doing lots of investigation. I think I have a pretty good grasp on it, but want to make sure I get it right - I don't want to miss something and end up re-doing a bunch of work after the inspector comes through. So, I've got some questions for the experts out there.

AFCI/GFCI protection. I know that kitchens now require AFCI, so I am planning on using AFCI breakers for all circuits - 3 new 20A, 1 existing 20A and 1 existing 15A (lights). I see that there are AFCI/GFCI combination breakers and I'm wondering if I should use those where I need GFCI protection. I see a couple of advantages - one, the entire circuit would be protected and I wouldn't have to use GFCI outlets. That means less bulk in my boxes, some of which will be getting close to the max fill limits. Also, I find GFCI outlets to be unattractive compared to the regular ones. Second, I wouldn't have to worry about inaccessible GFCI outlets. The main disadvantage I see is that if a GFCI trips, I would need to run to the panel in the basement to reset it, rather than having it at my fingertips. Any other pros/cons/comments on these combination breakers?

My plan for circuits:

Circuit A: 20A - Dishwasher and garbage disposal. This is where I think it would really be nice to have the AFCI/GFCI breaker. Then I could install a regular outlet under my sink and have it half hot for the dishwasher and half switched for the disposal. If I need GFCI outlets under the sink, I would need 2 separate ones, correct? I don't think there is such a thing as a split GFCI outlet?

Circuit B: 20A - Refrigerator, 2 floor level outlets. Refrigerator does not need GFCI, correct? I know it's not required to have the refrigerator to be on a separate circuit, but is sometimes recommended. The other 2 outlets will be rarely used. One is just to accomplish the 6-foot outlet rule and the other is just because I thought it would be convenient to have one, just in case. The only time I see either of these outlets being used is when my wife runs the sweeper vacuum or steam mop over the floor in the kitchen.

Circuit C: 20A - Gas stove (igniter and clock), over-the-stove microwave, 2 counter-top duplex outlets I'm unsure about this one - I see conflicting information on whether or not the microwave - since it is mounted - can be on the small appliance branches or not. And, if not, does it need to be GFCI protected? As far as the stove, I am unsure as to whether or not this needs to be GFCI protected.

Circuit D: 20A - 4 counter-top duplex outlets.

Circuit E: 15A - Lights.

Actually, as I type this out and re-read it, maybe I should put the refrigerator, microwave and stove on one of the 20A circuits and then have the other two 20A circuits specifically for the 8 duplex outlets (2 floor level, 6 counter-top). Would that be a better plan? Original plan is based on physical layout of the kitchen, so a bit easier to run wire that way.

Outside of the specific questions above, any other thoughts/suggestons/concerns/red flags?

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Comments (4)

User
11 years ago
last modified: 11 years ago
"If I need GFCI outlets under the sink, I would need 2 separate ones, correct?"

One GFCI and one regular receptacle on the load side in a two gang box.

It is sort of a toss up between this and a gfci breaker.

"I don't think there is such a thing as a split GFCI outlet?"

I doubt it. You can also use a blank faced GFCI in a box out toward the front of the cabinet for easy resets and then run the load side to the receptacle at the back of the cabinet.

"Refrigerator does not need GFCI, correct?"

Not unless it is within 6' of a sink.
User
11 years ago
last modified: 11 years ago
"I see conflicting information on whether or not the microwave - since it is mounted - can be on the small appliance branches or not."

I have never put a fixed in place microwave on the same circuit as the countertop receptacles, and would not advise it. Most ORM installation instructions require a dedicated 15 or 20 amp circuit. NEC requires the installation instructions to be followed.

"And, if not, does it need to be GFCI protected?"

Not unless it is within 6' of a sink.

"As far as the stove, I am unsure as to whether or not this needs to be GFCI protected"

Not unless it is within 6' of a sink, or the stove installation instructions require it. But whatever circuit you run it with, make sure to run the wire directly to the box that will have the GFCI, so that you can bypass it if necessary.
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User
11 years ago
last modified: 11 years ago
"Circuit D: 20A - 4 counter-top duplex outlets."

It is generally best to split these between two circuits, but without seeing a kitchen plan, I don't know if it is worth it. Post a picture of the plan for better feedback.

"Actually, as I type this out and re-read it, maybe I should put the refrigerator, microwave and stove on one of the 20A circuits "

Not the best idea. Refrigerator and microwave could easily be over 1920 watts (80% of max) and possibly over 2400. In your case, the microwave must be on a dedicated circuit, and/or the receptacle is not a countertop receptacle and can't be on that circuit. Also, a refrigerator is to either be on the small appliance circuit or its own dedicated circuit.

http://www.georgiapower.com/in-your-community/electric-safety/chart.cshtml

Physical layout is usually better with a few minor modifications.
monstertaco
Original Author
11 years ago
Thanks for the input. Here's what I've decided to do:

Circuit A: 20A - AFCI/GFCI breaker, one split outlet under the sink for dishwasher and disposal.

Circuit B: 20A - Refrigerator, 1 floor-level outlet.

Circuit C: 20A - 3 counter-top GFCI outlets, one outlet for stove igniter & clock.

Circuit D: 20A - 3 counter-top GFCI outlets, one floor-level outlet.

Circuit E: 15A - Lights.

Circuit F: 20A - Over-the-stove microwave.

I will be splitting up the 6 counter-top outlets. Floor plan is below. Red crosses are outlets on circuit C, green are circuit D and blue are circuit B.