I like your idea of mirror to bounce the window light, but I would suggest hanging mirror above the night stands, or even hanging full length mirrors behind the night tables. The table lamps are a bit small in comparison to the headboard, but either option of mirrors, or framed artwork would help balance that out.

For the closets I would go with a crisp white doors, or even panel-track fabric panels.

Oh, and nickel handles to the end tables.

yes mirrored doors would be good

also you need a big print above the bed

I think the bed in project has a lot of similar features to yours http://sainteriordesignstoronto.com/casanova.html

I agree about mirrors above the night stands. Replace the ceiling fixture . Use the lamps for lighting not overhead lights.

I am curious, S&S and Grapefruit, why you wouldn't use can lights? I can't think of any really well done rooms that don't have them these days.

I checked to see what you are using in your homes. You need to change the size of can you are using as well as the trim kit. The trim kit should be perfectly flat and not open in to the bulb. They need to be 4" p20 with a deep enough can that the bulb isn't visible standing about 10 feet away. This requires the right trim kit for sure. Light placement needs to be close to walls, usually about 24-30 inches but sometime as little as 12", so the light is reflected off the walls. In your photos, I suspect the bulbs are floodlights, try spotlights. Your results will be very different.

Best wishes!

You can also make the bed more of a feature by bringing in some more textured pillows. A focal point pulls you into a room. Some bold graphics would also pop on your neutral bedding. These are some examples we carry at Ethan Allen:

@nimrod, if your last comment was directed to me, I'm flattered (yet have no other way to respond but here). Some of the jobs on my profile are from many years ago, perhaps proving that done well is timeless. I have been a general contractor for over 20 years and closing in on 30 in the trades. California energy codes will not allow the current installation of the fixtures on those older projects. We currently use (or recommend) 4" LED recessed fixtures in a 3000K or warmer with lamps (diodes in this case) specific to location. Formerly we used 5" or 6" recessed fixtures with specular clear Alzak cones with A lamps or directional fixtures with halogen lamps. Further...modern LED drivers and diodes often are not available with
the diode recessed well into the fixture due to the size of the driver. I have worked closely with lighting designers on exceptional projects and lamps are specified for use. Floods for general lighting, wide spots for highlight, narrow spots for accents. Yet my comment still stands. Some forms of structural construction DO NOT work with recessed cans. I have torn out a few cathedral ceilings where that mistake was made. They also do not work for period design purists.

Obviously time to get a photographer out to some newer work!

Thank you all so much for your feedback!! Love all the suggestions and will definitely be taking them on board! Novice question, but what do you mean nimrod25 when you say "can lights"? Are they downlights?

I'm talking about 4" flush ceiling lights, they are down lights. If you buy from a lighting store, you buy the "can" that holds the bulb (not visible when installed); separately you buy the "trim kit" (this is what you see surrounding the bulb if you look at the ceiling); and then you buy the bulb (which should be a spotlight beam spread). I have found it impossible to walk into a store and buy led spotlights, all they tend to carry are floodlights. I have had to order mine online. Here is the link to the bulbs I use: http://www.earthled.com/products/sunsun-7-watt-par20-50-watt-equal-dimmable-led-spotlight#.VBp49Nh0wdU