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juliameli

Reducing Nitrogen in garden soil

11 years ago

Hello,

this was my first year attempting to garden, I built a 6Wx12Lx2H bed and added some new soil which was very rich in compost. Thinking that more was better, I also added a bunch of manure to the bed and mixed it in thoroughly throughout the soil.

I thought I was having fairly good success for my first year but I did have a few reoccurring problems:

#1 BER: Most of my tomatoes and peppers were affected by BER. I originally thought that this was due to inconsistent watering and I'm sure that was part of the problem but from my research, it can also be exasperated by excess nitrogen in the soil.

#2 Pole beans producing vigorous vegetation but very few actual beans. I'm only now beginning to get a my bean harvest.

#3 Root vegetables having very large foliage with little root. My radish's are pathetic and the carrots I've picked have been little better.

#4 My most successful crops have been the leafy varieties which is generally consistent with a soil rich in nitrogen.

So my question is this: Going into next year, how do I amend my bed to attempt to correct this problem?

Here is what I was currently planning on doing.

  1. Adding wood chips: from what I've read, wood chips can leach some of the nitrogen out of the soil. How much to add is another question I haven't begun to tackle.

  2. Top up my beds. I didn't quite fill my beds to the brim this year, I figure I can increase the soil mass by approximately 10%-15% next year to "Dilute" the existing soil. Does anyone have any ideas on the best type of soil to add? I generally order a mix of organic triple mix and compost from my gardening center but I wonder if adding more compost is a bad idea.

3. Plant vegetables that do "better" in nitrogen rich soil. I'm planning on expanding my garden (More!) next year so I can limit what I plant in this soil to leafy greens and vegetables that tend to leach more nitrogen. I've read that squash and broccoli would be strong candidates.

Anyway, if anyone has any recommendations or thoughts, I would be glad to hear them. I consider this year a learning year as I have absolutely no experience growing anything. Despite the challenges (bugs, deceases, human error), I'm having a lot of fun and really enjoy the process.

Cheers,

Bruno

Comments (10)

  • 11 years ago

    Most of the time the N will be gone by next year. Most of the other minerals from compost will still be there. Carrots, radishes and beans should never be fertilized if you have good soil, so you should have success with these next year without any fert. I would not plant these plants together with tomatoes or other plants which do require some N. Can you make another bed and separate the vegetables?

  • 11 years ago

    It's rare to have so much N that the fruiting gets clobbered beyond a nuisance stage. If you try to tie it up with uncomposted stuff like wood chips, remember that finer stuff like sawdust will have a bigger impeding effect than chips because of the greater surface area relative to wood mass. Maybe do nothing. Excessive N will go away in just a little bit of time.

    Incidentally, I use a ton of manure, bury all my garbage, and only one tomato plant had any BER last season (and its whole fruiting was affected). Definitely just watering.

  • 11 years ago

    Agreed that the problem will tend to fix itself over the winter. Dilution isn't a good strategy. You could also dig in uncomposted material at the end of the season (ground up leaves, for example and, as you say, wood chips, if you can wait longer for them to decompose). That will use a lot of nitrogen as well as improve your soil texture. Too much nitrogen is a problem everyone should have!

  • 11 years ago

    Plant corn next year.Corn is strong consumer of N.

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    were you adding addition fertilizer to the growing crops? I would do a soil test to find out what is going on. I am wondering where your PH is at. what is "organic triple mix"?

  • 11 years ago

    "Can you make another bed and separate the vegetables?"

    Yes, I will be making at least two new beds next year so I'll be able to split everything up appropriately.

    "I am wondering where your PH is at. what is "organic triple mix"?"

    The soil I used is a certified organic mix of Peat Moss, Manure, Black Peat Loam & Mushroom Compost. I purchased a soil test from my local hardware store and the N was high, PH was between 6.5-7.0.

    So the overall consensus is to do nothing... I was planning on covering my bed with shredded leaves for the winter. Can this do any harm at this point?

  • 11 years ago

    Although it may be too late in your area, plant kale or any other cool weather leafy crop. Yes, I would cover the beds with a mulch. Very early in the spring, get a soil test done; then plant early spinach, kale, and brassicas. Any excess Nitrogen which hasn't leeched away, gassed off, or used in decomp will be used up by those early crops.


    You didn't have toxic amounts of N, or this years plantings would have failed. You may have had as you suspected, a little too much for the fruiting plants.


    By the time you are harvesting the spring crops, your soil test will have come back from your county ext. You'll know exactly how fertile your soil is and you'll be in good shape for the summer.

  • 11 years ago

    <I purchased a soil test from my local hardware store and the N was high, PH was between 6.5-7.0.>

    In this case I agree with the others - do nothing. Simple time fixes any high N issues.

    But for future reference those do it yourself kits are a rip-off and quite famous for being inaccurate. What they are actually testing is the water you mix with them so you should never do anything to your soil based on one of them. For about the same price you can get a professional soil test done through your local county ag extension office.

    Dave

  • 11 years ago

    You could cover your bed with shredded leaves, but it'll do a lot more good to dig them in. Especially if you're trying to use up nitrogen. Aeration will help remove ammonia, which is a volatile form of nitrogen that comes out of urea that bacteria use to produce non-volatile nitrates. Covering your bed with a top dressing won't help that aeration.

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