Try vinyl wood look plank - great in a basement and they can use floor leveler to bring up the one area that is missing . . it will look like a high end cerused wood floor . . but do get a luxury vinyl plank . . spend the money you saved (no one will ever know if you don't tell them) on great art, furniture something you can take with you

If you want real tile then talk to a flooring specialist. There are newer tile underpayments like Ditra which can sometimes allow tile to be installed over older floors. I do not know if it would work in your case. If your basement ever has any seepage, you will want real tile.

The vinyl planks may also work, but if they do get wet the adhesive will give out. The planks will not be ruined but they will need to be re-installed.

Whether you use Ditra or another underlayment the manufacturer will not warranty the installation over the adhesive backed tile already down. So, should you go in that direction you accepting that the install may be prone to cracking grout lines or the occasional popped/loose tile.

The guys over at the John Bridge Tile Forum may know best how to proceed with tile in this situation.

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=1

I have the same issue in my basement. House was built in 1948 and there's still the original box with extra floor tiles that says "Asbestos added for rigidity!" right on the side so I know it has Asbestos. There was a sump pump system installed some time after that, so they ripped up about 2 feet all around the outer perimiter and then patched the concrete, so there's tile in the middle everywhere but rough patched unsealed concrete all around the perimeter.
I was planning on simply putting epoxy down. It can be tinted just like paint to many colors and it will seal the floor.
I'm not planning to finish the basement really, just going to use it for a craft space, so I don't mind just having the epoxy floor but you might be looking for a nicer end result.

Need to check to see if there is a moisture barrier in the floor and surrounding walls. Your epoxy could peal up over time due to moisture build up on the underside.

How do I tell if there's a moisture barrier? There's just the asbestos tile laid directly on the concrete slab, and the concrete that's been patched from installing the sump pump system. In theory the sump pump system should keep everything dry right? Is there something I should seal the concrete with first?

Of all the asbestos out there in building projects from the 70's, vinyl asbestos tile is the least likely to cause health impacts - the asbestos is encapsulated in the vinyl .. you would have to drill through it to create dust from it. That said, if you can afford to remediate, of course, it is always a good idea. If you can't, vinyl wood look floors at the high end are really terrific looking - I predict they will overtake laminate so we only have people buying real hardwood or vinyl.

No ceramic or porcelain without removing but vinyl plank that is installed floating no problem just don’t disturb the underlying floor. The only way to install tile would be with a new subfloor glued down.

Looks more like linoleum which doesn't contain asbestos.

The product that is installed in the photo is VCT, vinyl composition tile. The same product that is usually installed in walmart or your grocery story, if they aren't going in with stained concrete or vinyl plank.

Sorry...there will be no "permanent" flooring going down over these tiles. Nothing will grab them...and nothing is designed to grab. Nothing. Complete failure inside of a year...maybe less.

You are welcome to FLOAT a floor over top (which is what you will be told to do by every floor sales person with an ounce of decency). Epoxy will NEVER go down over this. Every epoxy installer will laugh and then say, "No thank you". A "home kit" won't make it a year...on a GOOD floor let alone over vinyl.

Float a vinyl plank over it (you will have to even out the subfloor) or any other form of floating floor (laminate with 2-in-1 under lay = good idea) to get away from vinyl's despirate need for "flat".

Here is the on-going discussion on the tile forum...they all say "don't do it".

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=b5a083017b0bd83420d25029d3efe4d3&t=116482

To all who think nothing can go over ahem... yes it can. You can float for sure. I did an install a few years back rite over this stuff and it was very successful BUT that depends on a few things and it will not be cheap( cheaper than removing I guess). The vct has to be adhered really really well. I used bostik vapour lok and I did a hold test to make sure it would work. The bostik rep actually suggested it. I then glued down perverco unfinished engineered oak 4" and it went very well. We self levelled any place where there was a void. The Custom building products rep also agreed with the bostik rep. I have stayed in touch with this homeowner as his firm is my current marketing firm so I would hear it if it failed. Hire a really really well trained expert to perform this task.

So it seems from all your helpful responses that I will likely have contractor remove the current tiles (that are likely--but not proven--to contain some level of asbestos but come up very easily in whole pieces with no dust). Floor will then be leveled and real wood-look tile planks will then be installed. I'd love to go for vinyl planks but basement floor will be used tons for playspace by 3 very active kiddos under age 6. Additionally, basement has been wet in the past (though not in last 2 years since we spent over 10K for one of those "waterproofing" companies to remediate interior and install sumpump).

Few questions:

1) where is well-priced place near New Brunswick, NJ to buy over 700 sq ft of dark wood-look floor tile?

2) ceramic or porcelain tile? Note very limited budget.

3) what product recommended to even floor? Note that epoxy seems to have been tried by previous owner (see pic above) and looks awful and peeling.

Thanks!!

Michelle in NJ

If you're on a budget, you need to realize that dealing with asbestos legally -- getting pros licensed to work with asbestos involved -- is likely going to cost you disposal costs well beyond just trash collection.

The steps can be covered with wood panels.

How high is your basement ceiling -- can you add to the floor thickness without any problem.

Are you doing the work yourself?

Question: If there is a concrete floor under the existing tile, then, after removing any and all loose pieces of the existing tile, could you add a thin, level, -- emphasis on level -- cement floor (which would fill in any uneven places created by the broken tiles) over the existing one, perhaps doing so yourself in sections rather than all at once, so you'd have a blank slate for your new floor; or, alternately, use the same basic idea but with the product intended to lay tile rather than actual concrete but adding the tiles as you go.

@meems15 - The vinyl planks I mentioned above from Mannington and Shaw Floors are floating vinyl planks. Meaning that they interlock like a floating laminate floor. Their durability is 100x better than a laminate and they are moisture resistant. I have both of these products submerged in a tank of water in my showroom, they have been there for 7 months without any physical defects thus far nor have they began to break down. Your kids and dog will not phase the durability of these products.
If you're on a budge, this would most likely be the best route. And this would be a very simple, DIY.

Before you do anything, get an asbestos expert in to make sure that the tile is not chipping off or otherwise loose.

If you prefer to use tile. Porcelain tile is the best for your area. Here in Texas our wood look take ranges from $2.39 sf to $7.50 sf material only.

If this is a basement I would put down a subfloor first . There is a product called dry core that can go right over your tiles. It has a pic waffle backing that will keep your floor warm and dry. These are interlocking 2x2 high density particle board squares. Check them out at Home Depot. I have used them before and the work great.

I meant ova

Darn spell check! Pvc

Just checked with HD. They are 5.10 each. This will give you a clean stable floor to start with.

The LVT planks will be wonderful in your space and much kinder to your little ones than tile. Coretec has a cork layer to help keep it soft, quiet and warm. Float them. They are wonderful and come in a variety of colors.

I'm in agreement that a floating vinyl plank is your best bet for durability. If something happens to one of them, they can be easily replaced. If one of your kids drops something on a ceramic or porcelain tile, you're going to be digging out grout and chipping up tile in order to replace it. Why go to the expense of ripping out the existing tiles to put in porcelain or ceramic when you can go right over them with a floating vinyl plank? Good luck with your project!

I love the idea of the venal plank also but I would still put the sub floor down first. Cement basement floors are notoriously cold and damp and I would want a barrier no matter.

Great suggestions. Can someone post a pic of floating vinyl plank and give me idea of pricing per square foot? And yes--the basement has moisture so we do intend to even out floor somehow before tiling. Fyi--we live in central NJ near New Brunswick. Thx!

Carpet your stairs. And removing tile like you have is RIDICULOUSLY hard, I know because my mom made me remove some for her. You will never get the old mastic smooth. Get great carpet and pad for your floors.

Luxury vinyl is typically priced from $2.00 to $7.00 per square foot. http://www.armstrong.com/flooring/luxury-vinyl.html

For your basement I suggest using Dri-Core underlayment. http://www.dricore.com/en/index.aspx

Both of the products can be DIY installed if you have basic improvement knowledge, time and a table saw.

Diamabrush removes mastic no problem back down to bare concrete. No problem.
woodwize@gmail.com

We have a commercial epoxy flooring that will adhere to your existing VCT tile. You can see some of our floors here http://www.everlastepoxy.com/project-gallery . There are two things that you will need to know before purchasing the floor:

1. Before covering your basement floor with our epoxy you should first check that the hydrostatic, capillary or moisture pressure is not greater than 3.0 lbs. / 1000 sf / 24 hours.

2. You will need to scratch the VCT to open the pores and remove any sealers. The Diamabrush that is available for rent at home depot can do this.

3lbs in 1000 sq over 24 hrs is pretty dry. Most slabs I test are well over that....

Especially slabs that are located in the basement of the home.

No one seemed to catch meems statement:

"3) what product recommended to even floor? Note that epoxy seems to have
been tried by previous owner (see pic above) and looks awful and
peeling."

EPOXY has been DIY attempt and is FAILING. Failing = moisture!!!!!! You have to get down to RAW concrete (shot blasting all that concrete), applying a moisture mitigation system ($1-$3/sf), then new concrete topping...THEN you get to install ceramic/porcelain tile!!!! Oops.

This is NOT a cheap install. If you are on a tight budget...the permanent floor (porcelain tile) is NOT a cheap option. Floating a floor is the easiest option on a budget.

Anything that is PERMANENT requires clean slab (everything removed and concrete shot blasted) + moisture testing/mitigation done...You might have to top coat it first (concrete) or some products can go straight down. Your tile setter/concrete professional will offer up what is needed once you know the product you want to install.

New concrete does NOT like old, damp concrete...it MUST HAVE moisture mitigation done PRIOR to evening out the floor. If you don't do the moisture work, your top coating = crumbling and tile failure inside of a few years...possibly less.

The tile material purchase = cheapest part of this whole thing. The labour+material costs to get it READY for tiles = 3-5 times as expensive as the tiles themselves.

Yikes, what a pain! I would just put down the Dri- core and do carpet squares. If one gets dirty just pick it up and replace it. Nice and comfy for the kids too.

Love the tile color was there any Black or Pink in it ... ???? !!!! :) :)