The new wood has no aging to it and the oak they use now is not the same as the old oak used in 1934 . That old floor has been exposed to many things in its life which have made it a little more able to absorb the stain the company who did this should have been able to compensate with a darker stain on the new wood if it has not been finished maybe talk to them about restaining to see if that would work.

They would probably have to create a custom, darker stain to try to even out the two but that would work only if the topcoat has not been applied. I would guess that would be at additional cost since it would have been more expensive to do it that way from the start.

Let's see if Ultimate Hardwoods has any suggestions for us. He is a HUGE fan of Rubio...and he's got he NWFA training which means a lot in the hardwood flooring industry. Maybe he'll pop by and add some suggestions.

Is there any chance that the old floor was red oak, not white oak? I honestly don't believe that old vs. new oak would come out SO differently. There would be some variation, sure, but more like the variation in board colors you see on your original floors. I'm inclined to think the two floors are not actually the same species.

We're about to embark on a similar project - adding "matching" boards to extend the existing hardwood (c1940) into the kitchen. But we're planning on feathering it in with the existing boards so there's not an obvious transition. Or at least I hope not! Interested to hear what others think about your floor predicament....

Old English has a product that darkens wood furniture with every application -- the dryer the wood the more quickly it absorbs the product and the more quickly it darkens. I believe it's a liquid scratch cover that comes in a light color, a red color and a really dark color -- try the dark one.