Not enough info to say for certain what's happening. Exactly what does "pulling off some of the laminate" mean? If laminate is coming unglued from plywood/mdf,it's likly a glue problem. I have never got satisfactory results with latex and/or water base contact cement. There is some that works but it require's heat set. Are you properly rolling the laminate? The router bit should make better edges than a file. Maybe something is wrong with the bit??????

No it's solvent based contact cement. The stuff does seem finicky and not want to stick if I wait too long. It's weird because the can says 15 to 20 minutes, but if I wait more than 12 minutes or so it won't stick it all. The bit is a 1 inch CMT flush trim and it's brand-new .

Are you using the contact cement properly? Coat both pieces, allow to dry, then apply one to the other and roll.

Exactly what brand and product are you using? I've done a boatload of laminate over the years, and lifting has never been an issue.

I was using the Dap stuff and now I'm trying Wilsonart.

I've used dap and wilsonart with good results. The window is larger than you are experiencing. You didn't mention secound coat,have you tried recoating after first coat is almost dry? Not always nessary but more often than not it's better. On wide surfaces like counter tops I usually at least recoat 4-6 inches of perimeter and one 4" strip down center. Machines operating nearby or other sources of dust will ruin the tack as will extremely high humidity. Try and perfect application of glue to do it in as few passes as possible. If you have alot of surface to cover a 1/4tr" nap roller is the way to go. A tray isn't nessary on wide surfaces,just pour out a puddle and spread. Are you rolling? I use a 3" dia x 4" wide long handle roller that alows applying all my upper body weight while rolling. I reccomend small or handicap individuals use a rubber mallet or other means of pounding intire surface. A 3x6 piece of hardwood with relieved edges can be pounded with a clawhammer.

You are using a 90 degree flush bit? Sure you don't want the angled one? those are easier to file afterwards w/o marring the finished face.

OK, so make sure you are using a bastard or fine-cut file, not a double-cut one. They will grab and not leave a polished edge. Always file in the direction that does not lift the laminate.

Casey

paintguy22:

When you say you are making backsplashes, do you mean full height splashes from the countertop to the bottom of the cabinets, or do you mean you are laminating MDF edges and faces to mount as a 4" high backsplash?

If the latter, dump the bearing bit and get these. You'll want a flush cutter and a 7 degree. Laminate your edges and strips with 2 coats, press with a "J" roller, and rout with the flush cutter. File or sand them perfectly flush. Laminate your top, again 2 coats and "J" roller, but before you rout, install the 7 degree bit and coat the laminate the bit will ride on with Crisco. Do a test piece to get the 7 degree adjusted perfectly. Too little and you'll have too much filing. Too much and you'll cut through the side. Your fingernail shouldn't catch when you've got it right. Kiss it with a file and you're done.

Yes they are just 3 1/2" back splashes. I will try your suggestions. I actually found a laminate trim bit at Lowe's that made a huge difference. Clearly, the flush bits are the wrong thing to use.