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flowerlilies77

Systemic Insecticide help & suggestions

I've been reading through past posts regarding systemic insecticides and have a some questions. From what I have read so far it seems like the bayer systemic for trees & shrubs is a good choice. Is that correct (as opposed to the one for roses)? If not suggestions are welcome! I normally don't like to use chemicals but since all of my plants will stay indoors year round & I don't have animals or little kids that would be affected I don't feel too bad using it. I want to use it mainly as a preventive but I think I might have a problem with my portulacaria afra (sp?). Some of the new leaf growth is a bit deformed/stunted...I haven't seen any pests above the mix yet but haven't un potted to see what's going on below.

*can it be used anytime throughout the year?

*what strength?

*best way of applying it?

*how often (or just follow the directions on the bottle)?

*can it be used on all succulents safely?

*how mature does the plant need to be for application (I have a lot of propagation of assorted succulents going on as well & want to know when it would be safe to treat them too)?

Thanks a bunch :)

Comments (8)

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    It may be a good idea to post photos of the plants you are concerned about. Possibly, they suffer from something else but bugs. Other problems (improper soil, watering, feeding, light...and so on) should be eliminated and problem should be identified before treating with such as you suggest.

    Systemic will treat certain infestations - if there are any. But using it if not necessary may not be such a good thing...JMO (I think of it as using penicilin when having a common cold...and when needed, it doesn't work so well anymore). Again, JMO!

    I believe that systemic you mentioned should be used outdoors...hope others with experience of using it will post.

    flowerlilies77 (zone 6b - PA) thanked rina_Ontario,Canada 5a
  • 10 years ago

    Thank you both! I should mention when I first noticed the problem with the leaves about a wk ago I cleaned them using q-tips & rubbing alcohol just incase. Upon closer inspection while taking photos a few minutes ago I may indeed have a bug problem :( if not I think I should still take some precautions because before I potted them in the gritty mix the 1st soil I purchased & potted all of the plants in had some sort of infestation (unfortunately not sure what it was but the eggs were very small & had a translucent yellowish color to them & the soil itself had a rancid smell). I unpotted them as quickly as I could, cleaned the plants including the roots as best I could & repotted in a gritty mix. If I do have a bug problem since all of the plants are so close to one another & they were all in the same crappy soil it's probably best to treat all of them? **Can the ones I have propagated that have formed plants be treated too even though they are so small (I can add pics if needed)?

    My current set up is a bit embarrassing (so please over look) I'm having to be creative & use what I have on hand but am in the process of trying to upgrade:) All of my plants are now potted in a gritty mix, I water when mix is dry & have them under compact cfl's & one led grow light for 8-12hrs a day. The only plant I can see some damage is the portulacaria afra (sp? Elephant bush) & possibly the other one inclued in the photos below circled in red!

    Funky leaf growth

    Leaf damage (all of the brown spots on the rest of leaves are not raised or don't scrape off)

    possible bug problem I found while taking the photos to post

    the other plant...not sure if it's a bug problem or not. Can't scrape off, cleaned with alcohol & it didn't rub off while cleaning.

    Thanks!

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Most of it doesn't look like bugs, perhaps photos 4 & 6 - if you see fine webbing, it could be mealy bugs. Rest of damage could be mechanical - other plant rubbing against, or pot, or even some critter damage while outdoors. Even 'funky leaf growth' could be caused by something similar. And it is difficult to have a plant without any blemish whatsoever. Here are few snapshots, as you can see, there are some spots here and there. Variegated jade (Tricolor) is known for having brown spots.

    Mealy bugs are tiny and hard to see, but fine white web gives them away. They tend to 'hide' in tighter spaces, so if spraying, make sure spray gets everywhere.

    If nothing came off while using q-tip moistened with alcohol or scraping, I don't believe there are bugs. Diseases like rot or fungus will look different.

    Did you wash off all soil from the roots while re-potting? That is the best thing to do.

    If there is bug infestation(especially mealy bugs), affected plant should be isolated and treated. If you think few plants may have it, it is best to treat them all.

    I never used Bayer, just read about using it. In over 3yrs of growing succulents, I have used only rubbing alcohol spray or swab. Brad (paracelsus) gave you good advice above about the dosage.

    Rina

    edit to add:

    I copied what Crenda wrote on another post:

    I do not spray the Bayer on my plants. They are all outside all year
    and in full sun. I am afraid it would burn or damage the leaves,
    especially those planted in the ground. Maybe someone else has a
    different experience to share, but I cannot advise you on that.

    I use the Bayer 3-in-1 or the Bayer Tree and Shrub as a soil drench.
    I water the plants lightly with the solution so the roots can take up
    the insecticide. This will protect my plants from any pests that bite
    them. This treatment can be done every 3-6 months.

    flowerlilies77 (zone 6b - PA) thanked rina_Ontario,Canada 5a
  • 10 years ago

    Thanks Rina! That's funny right after I posted the pics I found that same post & bookmarked it :) think I may give it a go just to be safe. During the 1st repotting I wasn't able to get all of the original soil off they were planted in when purchased from the nursery/greenhouse (it was like trying to free the roots from a brick, they were really compacted & stuck to the soil/medium I'm guessing because the seller used fine sand & peat in their soil mix). I was able to get most all of the infested soil off during the 2nd repotting but still unable to get some of the original soil removed before planting them in the gritty mix (so most all of the plants still have some organic material, mainly peat, sand & soil around the roots. I will try to fix that when I repot next time....**Do you have any tips/suggestions to remove all of the original soil during the next repot?**). All of the damage & funky looking leaves is on the new growth, they all have been inside since purchasing & will stay inside as long as I have them. Hopefully it's not a bug issue but will be taking precautions. Thanks again for your input/suggestions:)

    **I'm still wondering though how mature to the plants have to be to use a soil drench?

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Dried-up peat usually hardens up like a brick and it is very difficult to re-wet. Best way is to use hot water - obviously, if there is a plant there, it could be only tepid water. I leave them soaking in bowl of tepid water for a while, swish it gently to rinse whatever is loose enough, then use wooden skewer to help ti 'comb' out leftovers. After that, I leave plant sitting on newspaper-kitchen towels-cloth to soak up excess water. Succulent won't die - there is more than enough water around the roots while doing it.

    In the meantime, I get the pot and the mix ready. If the plant got lots of soaking, I may plant into totally dry mix (I use very gritty mix, without soil). Here is recently re-potted haworthia:

    Some damage would have happened perhaps in store, and it showed after you got them home - often, it takes a while, especially for damage that causes 'funky growth' (mechanical or bugs/disease).
    I think that as long as plants have roots, they should be fine if using soil drench (just like watering - no roots, no water).

    I would not rush to use strong chemical such as Bayer unless I see actual bugs - JMO. I know that many ppl use it in fall just before bringing the plants in - but they keep plants outdoors while weather permitting, and usually have many plants. It is definitely very good to inspect newly bought plants, and re-pot as soon as possible. It is likely that bugs/diseases are brought in that way. Often, just keeping new plants separated for a while to make sure there aren't any problems (and treating them if there are), is enough.

    Don't forget to keep plants away from strongest light (sunlight) for few days if spraying alcohol or any other product.

    Rina

    flowerlilies77 (zone 6b - PA) thanked rina_Ontario,Canada 5a
  • 10 years ago

    Thanks so much! Will do as you suggested to get the remaining soil off the palnts as well as a close inspection of the roots for bugs when I repot in the spring. Until then I'll keep an eye on the plants for awhile longer before resorting to a soil drench. In the mean time will keep cleaning with the rubbing alcohol on things that look suspicious. I have a spot in my house thay I use to quarantine any new plants brought in & keep them there for about a month to keep an eye on them. I also repot any new plants as soon as I can after purchasing. I appreciate your help...have learned a lot from you and several others responding to my questions in the last few months as well as just reading through this forum:) Have a great day!

  • 10 years ago

    Systemic pesticides should only be used in the last resort. They are toxic.

    With the exception of the last pic, the issues looked like nothing. A bit too cold, a bit of damage from stress, etc. The last pic might, possibly show a mealy bug, but they are rarely found alone, so I really doubt you have any bugs at all.

    I never use insecticide. Good care and picking off the visible bugs is enough. For spider mites (you have no sign of these) mist with water.

    flowerlilies77 (zone 6b - PA) thanked Sigrid