You could use timber but you would need to check the best type to lay that will withstand water, the maintenance needed and how often. Sometimes maintence of timber can mean your room could be inaccessable for days at a time.

Why not stick with tile, it really is the most practical solution, no maintenance and easy clean and place a mat or rug on the main walking area

[houzz=]

I agree, wood flooring feels 'warmer' but requires higher maintenance and not really ideal for humid climates.

Hi Suzam22,

I'd suggest cork. It feels wonderful underfoot, warm, and can be sealed well enough for use in a bathroom. Its available in several formats.
-Steve

I have an architect friend who installed flooring for a client when it was the rage a few years ago - she was quite hesitant to do so but the client insisted. Apparently its upkeep is a real headache even though all the procedures (sealing etc) were followed. As a result, later on, I installed ceramic wood tiles for a client and no problems.
I think it is a big outlay and a big risk to go for wood in a bathroom. Of course they look good in the magazines, but I feel unless you are going to work with a top manufacturer and designer you would be better off heeding the advice of my fellow Houzzers.

Brainstorming aloud for you: poured concrete: too hard,cold I think; lino or poured resin: might be softer; carpet: too retro and not coming back soon; artificial grass: too zany; hmmm coming back to tile with lots of lovely bath mats - there are some with huge dimensions.

Oh oh oh.... I found this for you on the web - http://www.softsurfaces.co.uk/blog/external-synthetic-artificial-sports-surfaces/playground-wet-pour-flooring-in-northamptonshire - could this work? It is radical and I doubt inexpensive!!!

There are several types of heated floors, maybe you are thinking of water running through tubes from a boiler. There are mats available now to go under the tile that use very little electricity and bring the tile to room temperature, and are relatively inexpensive.

I would avoid cork in a bathroom. I would propose heated floor mat under tile. A more budget solution would be a natural Marmoleum.

Thanks for all the input...I definitely wouldn't do wood...have it through the rest of the house and wouldn't want to worry about the water...we currently have tile, but will have a new, much larger bathroom and on a cold day like today....16 degrees, I am hopping from mat to mat! I see some of the new flooring that has a matte finish and that might be gentler? Builder might suggest heated floor mat. I'll have to visit some showrooms and get some ideas (Marmoleum?), but will probably go with the tile and lots of pretty rugs/mats.

Just get the electric underfloor heating, you won't be sorry.

From the lady who just walked on her nice, toasty tile floor that is in a cement slab.
Turn it off in summer, the thermostats are programable and you can set it any temp. So really warm or just take the chill off the floor, your choice.

suzam - didn't think I would be able to find this, but I love this rug.

Don't think the matte will be gentler, I had an antislip floor tile and that wasn't any different - tile is tile.
A nice fluffy rug will definitely look and feel cosier. Oh, and don't get one with a rubber backing the rubber perishes.

no wood in the bathroom, I recommend warm color tile, with an electric mat, approximately $500 for a 6x6 floor, but saves on heating bill.

nice

Oh, rats, my photo didn't attach.

[houzz=]

Try grouted Lvt looks like tile and is warmer to the touch. Holds up to water. I own a flooring company in Farmington MO and we use a product by mannington called Adura.

Oh, yes. Cost: Icork Floor LLC has tiles starting at $1.28/sf. The White Marble tiles you see above = $2.29/sf; the Black Ripple = $2.29/sf and the White/Black parquet = $2.99/sf!

Materials will cost roughly $3/sf. Cost of install = SAME AS TILE!

Cancork,

Thanks for posting about this, great information. I've done 4 projects with cork floors (kitchen/bathrooms) stretching back 17 years and my clients have loved them. (All glued) Fwiw, I've also done at least 30 bathrooms (that I can remember) with wood floors, all of them in SF in beautiful homes. They have held up incredibly well, and have had them in two homes of mine.

I've never had a client have an issue with wood in bathrooms either, and as long as the quality of the material and install is excellent, there is no reason to avoid using it in most circumstances. Having said that, I would not use it for a kid's or messy teenager's bathroom or for a rental home where you wouldn't be able to see how its being used (or abused).

I also agree completely with your point about floating cork floors, I have the same feeling about all floating floors actually, they are no where near as durable as glued or nailed down, and have other issues too.

- Steve

Beautifulremodel - I know this is going off the topic here, but could you tell me what issues you have had with laminate floating floors?

I too suggest avoiding wood flooring in bathroom or any material that can absorb water (and thus may develop mold).

@Olldroo,

The biggest issue I have with it is that it can chip/de-laminate quite easily, and is extremely difficult to replace the damaged sections, compared to tile or glued-down wood. Repairing floating floors requires removing baseboard(s) and disassembling entire sections to get to the damaged boards. Then re-installing the removed sections and base once its complete.

Tile and glued-down wood (or toe-nailed) is far easier, even if the wood is T&G, because we can drop-cut through a section, remove part of the groove glue it back in place. This won't work with floating floors because you cannot effectively secure it to the surrounding floating boards.

Tile is even easier to replace. None of these repairs are easy, but laminate and other floating floors are much more work, unfortunately. On a personal note, I also really dislike how floating floors (especially laminate) sound and feel underfoot.

~Steve

Just read your discussion on using cork in the bathroom and sealing it. What do use for sealer? I have just installed cork, in the bathroom, kitchen, and laundry room. There are pet scratches already. Was told by the salesperson it would not scratch. Thanks!

Sorry to hear kerriwigle. A cork floor will scratch...just like hardwood, but it is easier to work with than hardwood.

Who's product did you use? I'm very well informed as to finishes and install instructions for multiple companies. The product name/color/and finish would be great!

No two cork floors are created equaly. A low end "urethane" finished cork is very hard to live with because it scratches easily and must be refreshed every 6months - 2 years depending on traffic levels.

Size of animals is a huge issue. Large dogs will damage any wood product. Cork is easier to keep looking good and less expensive to refinish than a hardwood.

I'll help the best I can! I promise!

Used Torlys' cork. Can you use a sealer product such as durathene over top?

Torlys uses several finishes. The "classics" use UV Cured Acrylic (their older floors were finished this way)= one of the poorest choices for finishing a cork floor. The newest specs show the finish: Urethane Finish with Aluminum Oxide.

Urethane is a very poor choice for Cork = not stretchy enough. Aluminum Oxide = not great choice for cork because "haziness" is one of its calling cards. It doesn't stretch at all, and as it ages it becomes cloudier and cloudier.

The only thing you can do, is contact Torlys and use THEIR products or you void the warranty. They can be sealed, but once Aluminum Oxide scratches, it never comes out.

The dealer was supposed to tell you that you would NEVER WEAR THROUGH the finish but you could/will scratch the LIFE out if it! With NO WAY TO FIX IT!

Torlys rarely tells clients this side of the story! Please find out what waxes they have or if you can finish it with one of their products. Sadly, you will be left with what every they say you can use. That's part of what keeps your warranty!

Good luck.

@Cancork, what brands do you prefer? Its been several years since I worked with cork and have no idea what we used back then.

Thanks for your help
- Steve

Thanks for your input BeautifulRemodel. The more I go into it the more confused I get. Do you think there are different grades of laminate, would some wear better than others?? Is price any indication other than thickness? I do note warranties go from 10 to 25 years and that seems to be reflected in price. My daughter has had it down in her home for at least 12-15 years now, main traffic area from front door to kitchen, and has never had a problem with it. With 2 young kids she just loves how easy it is to maintain, and as soon as the kids go to be at night she just runs over it with her steam mop to keep it clean and hygenic. At at store the other week I was looking at some very expensive flooring and was told steam mops were a no-no, you should never put water on them. Well if you can't use a wet mop how on earth would you clean them??? Sometimes it is hard to know how much suppliers say things for their own protection -v- what will really harm the product.

BeautifulRemondel,

I sell our house brand, Forna. Of course I've researched other brands and have come to many conclusions:

1) Look for water based polyurethane finishes = Loba is the best Poly+Cork match you can get! The stretch with this finish is unbelievable! It is COMMERCIAL GRADE floor finish that the Germans use in their Parliament Building (Reich Tag).

2) Look for European Standards indicating the flooring has been certified for sale in Europe. I'm sorry to say, but a tremendous amount of the flooring (including Torlys...poor thing, I feel bad) is ILLEGAL in Europe because of the chemicals used in N. American production plants!!!

3) Look at the MSDS or Tech sheets for you chemical compounds as well as HDF vs. MDF!!!

I like Forna (obvious...but I had to say it), Harbinger, I'm impressed by what Globus can produce...but they are PRICY! They offer a 'water based finish' that has to be refreshed every year = URETHANE!

Stay away from: Mircoban (triclosan) and Greenshield (moisture protection) = hormone disruptor in mammals (male rats show feminine hormonal traits...not good!); Problem: Most US PRODUCED Cork includes Microban and Greenshield (again, Torlys is out on this one as well!). APC/USFloors/WE Cork all owned by Amorim group = same type of flooring = same lower end finishes (UV Acrylic OR UV Urethane with Aluminum Oxide).

Wicanders is VERY high end BUT they NO LONGER allow their floating floors in bathrooms/kitchens NOR entrance ways because the "high wear" finish is UNSEALABLE! Yep! You pay $12/sf for this high-end brand and you loose your warranty if you put it in a kitchen!!!

I would also say, "Look for any producer who still offers a glue down tile!" Not the click-together floating "tiles" (again, Torlys is out!) but 100% cork without a backing! If they can produce this, they probably have a good chance of being a "better" manufacturer.

I know. Too much info for words, but this has been my life's work x 2 years and I still haven't figured it out!

feel free to contact me at work:
steph@cancork.com

olldroo

The steam mops are a big rage...but steam is worse on some floors than just a damp mop. Inside laminate floors (and some bamboo engineered flooring as well) lies High Density/Medium Density (HDF or MDF) Fibreboard. It is this middle layer that is the problem! HDF/MDF are highly susceptible to damage with A) standing water and B) HUMIDITY (steam is the highest humidity you can produce!!!)

See where I'm going with this? Laminates = "layers". My cork floating floor is TECHNICALLY a Cork Laminate (but not the way most people would think). My floating floor, like a laminate, can not handle standing water NOR high humidity (steam bath, steamy shower or steam mop...you get the picture) if it has not been sealed. It reacts just like a 'bad laminate' around standing water.

A laminate has no way of being protected so it has to be babied. A cork floating floor can be SEALED with polyurethane (or water based polyurethane if your floor is higher end). This sealing can allow the cork to be installed in a kitchen. This protection stops big spills, like a gallon of boiling water and a trip to emergency. The sealant can NOT protect the floating floor from STEAM!

The steam may not damage it today, maybe not tomorrow but the accumulative effects WILL add up to NOT making it to the 25-35 year warranty! And a "damp mop" with a pH neutral cleaner can do just as much for "germ warfare" as steam or wet mopping.

Thanks Cancork, that all does make sense. These are the things I'm trying to get information on - sadly sales people can't be relied on as their main aim is to sell, sell, sell. Actually all your promotion for cork had me considering that again as I always loved it but then the other day I read one of your posts that put me off again. I have tongue and groove floorboards which can be quite inexpensively sanded and sealed but the maintenance - repainting the poly finish - as you said the cork also needs, is the big issue when I would have to move out of my home for the 3 or 4 days it takes to do. After the way my dd raves about her laminate, she convinced me this was the way to go. A damp mop though, I can definitely handle, that wouldn't be an issue, I just need to know I can wet the floor to clean it. It will be in such a vital passageway in the house that I need it to dry quickly so it only ever gets a damp mop now.

Actually I had to chuckle when you mention the 25-35 year warranty - I'm the one that won't make the warranty!!!!

I love cork flooring in a bathroom. It is warmer than ceramic tile and much more comfortable to stand on. We've had it in our bathroom and haven't had any issues. We did caulk around where the tub & shower are. We also used an unfinished glue down cork floor tile that we installed ourselves and then finished it with polyurethane. Another idea if you want a totally different look is to try the jelinek cork penny tiles. A friend of mine recently installed this in her bathroom and looks gorgeous. Totally different look but very cool!