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Multiplier onions

So I have planted white multiplier, Egyptian walking, and potato onions from several sources. The idea is to have perpetual onions. Anybody else doing this?

Comments (15)

  • 10 years ago

    No I have not but am thinking about finding a place in my garden for some this spring. If you go over to the Allium forum you can find several discussions about all three using a search.

  • 10 years ago

    I've had Egyptian walking onions for a few years. They've done really well, and it's nice to have a constant supply of green onions. I tried white multiplier and potato onions, but it seems the voles like them as much as we do.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    I have Egyptian & Welsh onions & enjoy both. Unfortunately, I can't remember which is which - all I know is one is much hotter than the other. I like to think the green tops have more vitamins than bulbs.

    I keep mine in pots; they don't do as well in the ground here.

  • 10 years ago

    Doing the same. Started this year. Yellow potato, three varieties of egyptian, Heritage White potato, Green Mountain multiplier, various perenial bunching, I'itoi, and shallots gallore. I'm a green onion junky and enjoy munching when out in the garden. I think growing winter hardy items will help the winter gardening blues.

  • 10 years ago

    So I've been wanting to put in some multipliers for greens, not bulbs, but I have some questions I haven't seen clearly resolved in online writeups. (1) I assume these are perennials in my hardiness zone. Do they just keep producing new bulbs indefinitely or do they sort of wear out? Do I separate bulbs every couple of years to make new stands to keep things going? (2) How much sun do they need? I have corners of beds that are partially shaded, and it would be great if I could use them as a border. (3) Do you harvest greens at ground level, or higher up if you want to keep them going?

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Dan- I grow an unknown variety of Egyptian onions and I dig and replant them every 2-3 years. If I want green onions I just pull the ones I want and leave the rest to grow. The spring and fall are when I use them for green onions because during summer they're producing topsets. The underground bulbs will divide and multiply but you can increase your supply much quicker by planting the topsets. Yes, they'll grow okay in part sun.

    I also have yellow multiplier onions but I grow those for the bulbs. I treat these the same as shallots.

    Rodney

  • 10 years ago

    Well, what I was thinking was just cutting off a green top, such that the bulb remains to make another green top a few weeks later. I want lots of greens without lots of planting. Is that not done? Of course, for store-bought green onions, you need to keep the small bulb attached to keep them fresh. I don't need that. My greens will be eaten within an hour of picking them.

  • 10 years ago

    With all the multiplier/Egyptian onions yes you can just cut some greens and leave the bulbs to spread/divide. Just don't cut all the greens from one bulb. If you did eventually it would exhaust itself regenerating greens until the bulb is out of energy. You may need to dig up and replant/divide every few years. If greens are all you seek, the multipliers seem to be really good producers and have several underground bulbs, constantly multiplying. I'd recommend the yellow multiplier as they are readily available and also store well should you decide to dig some bulbs up. Mine seem to be growing well despite frosts every night. I planted them in November.

  • 10 years ago

    Since it isn't exactly obvious which green comes from which bulb, I wonder if one could just cut off half the green on each sprout. Chop off six inches from the top of a one-foot green. That's a lot simpler. A few weeks later, it's a foot long again, and just do it again. That way, a bulb always has a lot of green. I mean, that's what I do with chives, and they're pretty happy with that.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Dan- Gotcha. Yeah, you can cut some greens and leave the plants in the ground. I would still dig and replant every few years. If for no other reason than to just add some compost to replenish the nutrients.

    "Since it isn't exactly obvious which green comes from which bulb."

    That's where you're wrong. It is very obvious which greens belong to what plant/bulb. When it's daylight tomorrow I'll take a pic and show you what mine look like now.

    Rodney

  • 10 years ago

    OK, thanks. I was thinking that if there are a clump of greens coming out of a clump of bulbs in the ground, it might not be easy to connect one with the other. But maybe it's more evident than I was thinking. Also, that's helpful. If I can cut half the greens off, leaving the other half to support the plant/bulb for years, that works for me. And yes, digging and replanting occasionally is probably also advisable just to separate the bulbs and expand the bed. I gotta try this.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Since a pic of my entire Egyptian onion bed looked like a jumbled mess, I chose a couple bulbs that were off on their own. Well, they were a couple bulbs last summer but have since divided. Very easy to tell the individual plants apart. Even with several square feet all growing together it only takes a split second to follow a couple leaves down to find out which plant they are coming from.

    Rodney

  • 9 years ago

    Thought I would bring this back up and discuss what I've learned and experienced in 2016. My garden is lasagna style, no till and organic. No onion pests were observed. All of these were planted late fall, 2015. I'll discuss each type and variety:

    potato onions:

    -I got some from Southern Exposure in fall of 2015, planted around the first of December. Planted bulbs were not more than 11/2" in diameter and I'm not sure the harvest in July was that big, nothing remotely close to the 3" advertised. Did not replant any last fall, 2016.

    - Kelly Winterton sent about 25 of various varieties, but none were the famous green mountains or coral mountain. Also got some extras and culls from him and some Dakota reds. The Dakota's were the most prolific, but none of his were over 21/2".

    - All potato onions were in a 2 year old heavily mulched, former red clay lawn that grew sweet potatoes the previous summer and in full sun, so fertility may have been the problem. My soil tests did not show nitrogen, but all other nutrients were very good.

    - Egyptian walking onions did pretty well and were tasty, some catawissa and some from SESE, planted in an older section of the garden. The SESE bulbs harvested were as big as the best potato onions, some over 2".

    - Florida white multipliers from a guy on eBay did very well in an area with morning sun and afternoon shade. Shanks and bulbs were about an inch in diameter when I pulled them in July. I planted 40 bulbs, ate off them all spring and summer, gave many away to other gardeners and still had about 120 dried bulbs to replant on Labor Day, 2016.

    2017

    Potato onions: since I suspected lack of nitrogen and maybe day length might have been problems, I built a new bed in full sun and filled it about 6" deep with bagged compost from Home Depot, Dr Earth brand. I have already side dressed with a high nitrogen organic fertilizer. I really want to find a perennial storage onion! I replanted some of my best bulbs and bought more Dakota reds and 5 Green Mountains of various sizes from Kelly, about 60 total.

    I am cautiously optimistic because the onions have already divided, are good sized with 1/2 to 3/4" inch stems and look better than they ever did last year.

    If they don't size up in this bed I will conclude they are day length sensitive and won't be larger than 21/2" for me.

    - Egyptian walking onions, planted Labor Day in morning sun section, older, very fertile section of the garden. Varieties were Heritage white bulbs, bulbils from last year, and Catawissa bulbs and bulbils from last year. In addition I just ordered some McCullar's white from eBay that I will plant next weekend. None of the EWO's are over 12" right now and the Heritage white are only about 8", but have up to 8 divisions. I expect the EWO's to grow best this spring.

    - Florida white multiplier onions, planted 120 bulbs on Labor Day, some are 18" tall with 3-6 divisions, 1/2 inch in diameter with white shanks about 6" long. The star of my onions so far! We have been eating them 2-3 times per week since the middle of October. I cut the larger bunches in the row about one inch below the soil level and they have regrown the leaves to about 10". Out of 120 initially planted, I must have 500 total now, so I'll be good until they die back in July.

    I harvested these Florida whites this afternoon, two bunches, 10 onions. I think these must be some kind of Asian bunching onion, but no idea what the named variety is. I sure do like them, they grow well here in upstate SC, and I don't anticipate having to buy them again.

  • 9 years ago

    Anybody ever read up on Vidalia onions? They are grown in an extremely nutrient poor soil...yet thrive??? I have a few varieties of perennial onions..just stick them in the ground and walk away...they are very tough. Maybe I would get bigger?more onions if I fertilized, babied them...but for me..once they get established, they grow...good enough for me!

  • 9 years ago

    Yep, the multipliers are pretty foolproof, conventional wisdom says full sun, mine are in mostly shade and growing great.

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