You could use a saw, which if you need loppers, you're going to need a saw for the problem you mention. Buy a pruning saw, not any old saw. Regular saws are meant for dry processed wood, not green tree wood. Pruning saws direct sawdust out of the way a lot better. Leave the collar on the branch to heal properly. Fiskers are excellent, at least have been for me. I use ARS pruners as the blade is super hard, stay sharp longer, and replacement blades are available. They also are coated to help keep them from corroding. ARS also sells a cleaning spray that removes sap instantly, excellent stuff! If you clean your blade after each use they will remain brand new looking. Available on Amazon. ARS also sells a sharpening tool.

Agree with drew. A good saw is much better for tree pruning. As mentioned the cut is smooth and will heal better than the crushing action of loppers.

Bypass pruners or loppers don't crush - anvil style ones do. Personally, any pruning chores I encounter can be addressed with three tools - hand pruners/secateurs, loppers and a pruning saw. Each is used on different sized wood for different types of cuts so it is difficult to understand how one would substitute one of these tools in place of another.

I use a Felco product for both the hand pruners and saw - lifetime guarantee on these and 100% replaceable parts - and Fiskar bypass loppers.

Loppers can crush slightly especially if old and dull. I keep my tools sharp as possible, Substitution is often needed, I have had cuts along a fence, or in densely wooded plants where it is impossible to use loppers. A saw has to be used on smaller diameter pieces just because you can't get the loppers in there. No where for them to expand at the blade or at the handle end depending on situation. This is extremely common knowledge. If you need loppers, you'll need a pruning saw too, for reasons sited, besides larger diameter wood. Very observant Stu! You never even used any yet but figured out loppers will not work for all situations. Ironic some more experienced posters have yet to figure that out. Maybe the key is experience? As in not having any.

Don't even go there, Drew.....it's not a discussion you're going to come out ahead of. And it's really too bad you are not able to engage in a civilized discussion without resorting to ad hominem attacks. It indicates a rather significant lack of self-confidence in expressing your opinion on its own merits.

While I'm eying a felco lopper, I bought a set of corona pruners and loppers at Costco in the spring some years back. I have been incredibly happy with their performance and would buy both the hand pruners and loppers again. The Loppers are basic aluminum handled bypass style with a rubber bumper for closing.

JMO, use a good saw and not loppers for larger pruning. Crushing isn't a good thing. Loppers are for "I want an easy button to punch"

Thank you all for your comments. Especially regarding saws. I wasn't familiar with pruning saws.

I did locate the following:

https://www.felcostore.com/saws

Anyone know the difference between the F-600 and F-621 (i.e. why someone would purchase the F-621 over the F-600 for pruning purposes)?

Thanks again,

stu_tv

Some people need/want the newest of everything! It looks as if they redesigned their original product. You don't stay in business if you can't sell more products.

The difference in the saws is the size of the branch they can handle. According to Felco, the F600 can handle up to 4" diameter branches, the F621 can handle branches to 6" and the F611, up to 9". So which saw you should choose depends on what type of pruning you anticipate doing.

The F600 is my saw of choice. It is a good all around pruning saw and is likely more than satisfactory for most homeowner pruning chores. I use mine to prune any shrubs, roses (cutting back gnarly old canes and large deadwood) and small trees, like Japanese maples and fruit trees. Remember that the smaller the pruning cut you make, the faster the plant will recover from the wound so try to remove damaged/diseased, conflicting or wayward branches before they grow too large. If I need anything significantly larger pruned or removed, I hire a professional arborist.

I also like the F600 because it is very compact and lightweight. And because it folds into itself to protect the blade (and you!)........having to tote around a sheath for blade protection is just another gardening tool to misplace. Or inadvertently toss out with the trimmings. And when I replaced my 20+ year old saw with a new one, I saved my old saw for other, non-pruning chores.......like cutting through dense, matted root systems when I divide perennials or grasses.

I handle anything up to 4 feet in diameter with various chain saws I have. I had some big rounds this last summer. Some of the trees on my property are 120 feet tall. I like the Felco saws. I like to use the ARS pruners because of one hand operation. They can be locked and opened with one had. Often I have scion or my other hand or is in use in some manner. So I can pull them out, unlock, use, and relock with one hand. Blades are coated with chrome. In general, no matter what you're talking, music, gardening, whatever, Japanese products are usually superior. ARS are made in Japan. Although Felco pruners are really good too, I would buy them too, say if size fits my hand better etc. One hand operation is nice but not essential.

I have two Felco pruners, but switched to ARS as the harder blades make cuts easier. I have no plans to throw away the Felcos though. Still nice pruners for sure.I just have to sharpen the blades a lot.

Here is a review comparing pruners

http://gardeningproductsreview.com/ars-hp-vs8r-pruning-shears-review/

I have noticed that Felco now offers some of the features at one time only ARS had.

Felco offers a lifetime warranty but only if you buy from the Felco store.

I know this probably goes without saying, but if bypass pruners are not used correctly, then they can crush.

Just make sure that they are sharp, and that the anvil is put on the part of the branch that it going to be removed. If the anvil is placed 'treeward', the branch can be bruised.

For hand pruners, I second the Felco #2's. For anyone who likes to cut even larger branches manually, try a Bahco bow saw. It's not meant for very tight places, but it's an excellent tool.

I just thought I'd put my 2 cents worth in. I have a pair of Hickock Aluminum handled bypass loppers. I just priced them in a few different sources for around $67. I've had this pair for 15 or so years. I used them this last weekend and they were incompletely cutting through the branches I was cutting. I got a pair of pliers and tightened the center bolt. No more problems.

By the way I bought these in the Northern California orchard area and a lot of the Pear growers used them a lot.

I also have an older Corona folding saw that still works well as long as you keep it sharp. But that's true for most all of your equipment/tools.

Thanks all.

I ordered the Felco 600 saw and the Felco F2 pruner today.

-stu_tv