no. you would either use transition edging like Schluter tile edge or corner tiles. never an exposed cut edge on a corner. aside from being ugly the grout will fall off. if it's been fairly recently tiled you may be able to pop them off, scrape off the thinset, install the corner trim, re cut the tiles and set them again. then use a color match caulk between the tile and edge.

There's no way to fix that without complete deconstruction and damaging the waterproofing under it. You shouldn't have let it get so far before you ripped them a new one.

BAD tile job

@sophie lol waterproofing? With a hack job like that I doubt there's any...

Can we have him fix it without taking it all apart? There is water proofing under it, we was it when it was going in...could they take out the grout and put in some sort of edge and reseal in some way now?

Thank you for your comments, do you think he could take the grout out and add the edging now? Also is that edging rust proof? And, is this safe to use?

The edging goes in before the tile unfortunately. Sadly this was a very sloppy install, I'm afraid you have to learn to live with it or start over. Shame the glass is installed already...

Although I have zero faith that the waterproofing was done correctly. The cosmetic aspect can be saved. Tile can be installed over tile. (Not by your so called installer) Use the same field tile with matching cap or profile edges as previously mentioned. Apply Mapei Eco-Prim and install new tile as it should have been done originally. I would retile the pony wall, seat & niche. Do you have any in-progress photo's of waterproofing?

thank you i will look for a waterproofing photo..what should it have looked like? as this was porcelin tile- you are saying i can just put thinset over the exisiting tile and install the edge then? Also if i just leave this ( which i dont want to do..do i have to seal the raw edges of the tile? ( like on the edge of the seat and niches to prevent leaks?

For just the face area of the pony wall pictured have the the face tile stategically demo'd out (easy to do) Cut back the mortar on the wall tile with a multi tool fit with a grout saw if need be. Apply board as per usual, mortar in the edging. Re apply tile. (I wouldn't sweat the waterproof in this area cause it's outside the wet zone). This is what I would do, but thousands wouldn't. And like Creative Tile says do not bring back the same tiler who did this. Best of luck.

If the waterproofing was done correctly it should not leak without tile. Tile & grout have nothing to do with waterproofing. This is the reason myself and others expressed concern. Clearly your tile installer does not know how to install tile. Why would we think they have the knowledge for the more technical aspects of waterproofing.

I'm one of the thousands that respectfully disagree. This shower could be made to look as if there was nothing wrong inside & out with a qualified installer.

IF YOU HAVE A PHOTO OF WHAT the waterproofing should have looked like that might help me im kinda freakin out right now!

There are many different systems and techniques. Have these people been paid for this work? As a consumer you are not expected to know all the details. That is why you rely on a professional. You did not have a pro on this project. No one should except this level of workmanship. I STRONGLY suggest having a local professional tile setter evaluate your project NOW and have them give you a price to do it properly. You will need this dollar amount for further discussions with the original contractor. For now you can buy a 2" drain plug and fill that shower to the top of the curb and let it sit for a couple of days while watching for leaks or the water level dropping. It won't tell you the status of the wall waterproofing but it could give you some peace of mind.

really sloppy work, did you pay these folks already? When they were tiling did you question the edges, they should have not left or paid them until you thoroughly inspected the finish product.

yes i was told that the sliver metal edges would rust in a shower....

Schulter edging is made of aluminum for that reason. It's comments like that that make the rest of us question everything about this tile job. If he doesn't know that Schulter is designed for showers, and he can't cut tile accurately, it's doubtful he knows how to waterproof a shower. This is such a sad situation, I wish you had put the brakes on it weeks ago, but there it is.

I was in a new house recently and saw something similar to this. The builder was clueless on how this looked. I wont be looking at his houses again. More and more tile ---and I mean larger format tiles---are available with bullnose pieces. Why aren't installers using these? Personally, I don't like a schluter edge.

I always feel bad when I see these pictures. What happened is the length of the 2 tiles came up short at the end of the wall and they just filled it will grout. Looking at the tile gaps or lack there of and then the 3/4" gap at the corner seat you have some issues here besides the edge. How in the world do they walk away from that job looking like that.

Sometimes contractors have to loose money on a job but save their reputation. Everybody has a bad day or miscalculates but it has to be corrected at their cost.

I would remove shower door and gain the 1" by hiding the cutline behind the door track. This way when the door frame is reinstalled it will just look like one continuous tile. The edges can be mitered vs Shulter and gotten close enough for a nice finished look. Installers need to invest in a new blade and a simple $10 dressing stone to finesse the edge of tiles and eliminate rough edges. Shelter although a great product doesn't always look correct.

If all else is ok? have someone correct the edges and move on. I would have someone check the job as there are other issues showing. Sorry!!

Gotta say three4 this looks strikingly like the first time I tried tiling, but it was for my own home and couldn't fire myself. This is clearly the work of someone way out of their depth. On the plus side the circular tile on the floor with the wall looks great!

Coincidently enough I used a different Kerlite tile finish in my other bathroom to cover that floor without demo AND used the same tile you did.

cool! great minds think alike!

the rest of the room looks awesome. i selected all the materials, paint etc its goint to be great. contractor came over today and we will work it out, i want him to remove the tile from the end of the pony wall and redo the bench. we are goign to add a tile edge to the shower insets ( not ideal but better) . just dissapointing when you spend huge dollars on a reno ..and you knew it wasnt right. as a home owner you dont want to micro manage the project ...the point in paying someone this much to do the work was to not have to worry about this or to make the mistakes by doign it ourselves! its just frustrating.

Post a follow up 34L kay.

will do counters go in on wednesday so ill post after its done

We just finished a remodel of our bathroom, with little diy tile experience. Reading the Tile Elf blog, using Youtube and watching the Shulter Kerdi videos 10+ times resulted in informed decisions. I would suggest you look at the Shulter Kerdi video's before your meeting the contractor. l would question why grout lines are so big and what type of grout was used. We ended up using an epoxy grout after all the reading and research we did.

three4lunch...the consensus is "bad job". You do not say if you have a GC, but have it ripped out right now, down to the studding; and not at your expense. DO NOT HAVE THE SAME INSTALLER.

Bad tile work leads to bad leaks. You hold the check book. Don't forget that.

Honestly, you have plenty of room to just run some polished aluminum angle over the corners. I would use a clear, waterproof epoxy/ caulk to put it on. You could even pay someone to make them custom with a top on the end if you wanted to get fancy. At, this point it's the simplest fix. You could even add a month from now if you were just sick of dealing with it.

it was waterproffed properly..he took photos as he went as we were out of town. that was my big worry. i have my own business ( we landscape so ironically we cut rock for a living :)) people make mistakes, as long as he fixes it we are good. your comments are all very helpfull thanks!

I would not let that guy anywhere near the tile again. It is a difficult task to try to salvage anything from a situation like this and you are letting Forrest Gump have another crack at it. Whoever did that job is not capable of fixing it.

bathroom is almost done..we still have to fix the tile inthe shower but over all its coming together- i have to figure out the backsplash- should i use the same mesh tile as the shower floor or something similar to the flooring....lookng for advise

Very poor instal.corners of tile should have been mitred at the corners in the same way you would instal baseboard.

Are those pebbles on the floor? If so no they are too heavy on a backsplash

why not have backsplash cut from the counter material?

Woof...that's a bad job

shower tile is getting fixed...counter material is too expensive to do back splashes out of. we did more than one bathroom all had 10 foot long counters..... the counter tops are amazing they look like cracked sheets of ice...just looking for suggestions on how to finish the splash

Hello, go shopping for some glass mosaics that are same coloring as the counters, it will add shine, but no other colors. There are some that have a cracked ice look! A mother-of-pearl mosaic would likely work as well, but pricing would be higher.

Thanks!

I know this is a really old post, but could anyone confirm that the shower material looks like "Crux Marble Attache" porcelain tile? I just picked my finishings on a new home and I only saw one slab of it. I was trying to picture what the entire shower would look like.