I don't use any saucers, but I do prop up my containers with "surfacesaver" to prevent what you're describing. The plant should never sit in the fertilized water that exits the drain holes. Or you could always use small cement/wood blocks. The surfacesaver markets "better air circulation under the pots", which I suppose would be true. The construction is sturdy and has no issues supporting large 100+ lb clay containers.

Link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/SurfaceSaver-8-in-Terra-Cotta-19811/202534861

Other members here have more interesting solutions.

Some prefer using saucers because they can collect the effluent from fertilizing with DynaGro FP or other liquid fertilizers and reuse it for other container plantings.

See Al's post at the bottom of this page http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/3513784/ficus-variegated-saber-ficus-maclellandii-leaves-brown-and-dropping

And Al's post in this thread: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/so-i-got-a-fiddle-leaf-fig-tree-dsvw-vd~2832581

If it's "bad" to let the excess water stand in the saucers, wouldn't it be better to just eliminate the saucers?

Just dump the water that collects in the saucers or suspend the plants so they have room to drip in the saucer without sitting in the water.

If the plants are outside on ground level, there would be no need for saucers anyway. Unless your trying to keep the area as clean as possible.

Fast draining mixes will do just that, drain quickly and a lot more water will flush through the mix. You didn't have the issue when you used standard potting mixes because they didn't drain feely and held onto perched water.

Yes, don't let them sit in the spent water.

I have plants in 50 'gritty mix'-filled containers so "just dumping the water that collects in the saucers" every 2 or 3 days would be laborious.

Here is Al's solution, he used 1x1x1 plastic channel molding:

I'd just suspend the pot just enough so that the standing water from the saucer doesn't touch the drain hole like Dave said. You can think of something, bottle caps may work depending on the dimensions of your saucers. It'd also be a good idea to add a drain wick to the drain hole from an old synthetic mop head, old synthetic shoelace, anything you have (synthetics like nylon ties from citrus fruit bags work well). You could elevate the pot on small paver blocks or something to allow the wick to dangle above your saucers.

How do I now get the drain wick into the gritty mix?

Does the drain wick draw the water in the saucer up into the gritty mix in the container?

No, the other way around, the wick would draw water out of the container. You don't want the wick touching the water in the saucer.

however, I don't think you really need a wick in the gritty mix as it drains well on its own.

You need to keep that water in the saucer away from the mix above. You want to flush the soil when watering, not draw the flushed spent water back into the container.

Again, are the plants outside? If so, do you need the saucers?

All my outdoor pots are suspended off the ground slightly with no saucer.

you want the water wicked away from the perched water table, not drawing it back in. you also want to use a material that won't rot (I used rayon mop strands).

I would kindly advise you to use the search function, here is a relevant thread, see Al's post: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1380076/gross-wick-for-gritty-mix-help?n=4

I just read the above thread (thank you) but no one has answered aredmon48's question:

Al,

Any suggestions for adding a wick to existing containers? I'm not sure how I could get the mop strand up into the mix through the mesh. I just learned about this and tested it by putting a towel under my azalea. I was surprised by how much water came out. I think my wet-foot-hating azalea will be much happier with me now.

Thanks so much for your help!

Angela

I don't believe the mesh is necessary, as long as the wick stays in place. Are you using gritty/5-1-1 or something heavier? It should be easy to just stick it from under the drain hole if it's a light mix.

the wicks can really help if your gritty/5-1-1 mix was poorly executed

Like aredmon48, I'm using gritty mix (per Al's recipe) with mesh at the bottom to prevent the mix from washing through the drain hole.

How can I now get the wick up into the mix through the mesh?

Why do you want to add the wick? Do you feel your mix isn't correct and is holding on to too much perched water?

if you have a true gritty mix that is made correctly, there is no need for a wick.

I thought this thread was about saucers?

The gritty mix is per Al Tapla's recipe.

Over the drainage hole in each container (50 of them) is a piece of mesh (to prevent the mix from washing out of the containers).

The containers have saucers that fill with water every time I water and moss is growing in the water.

Opps, right, sorry. I thought I was responding to you in another thread in the camellia forum where you were using a 5-1-1 like mix. How's that camellia anyway?

Ok, you're kind of skipping some questions.

1. Are the pots outside?

2. Do you NEED the saucers?

3. If you're using the gritty mix why do you feel you need wicks?

simple answer to the last part of your post: either A. Remove the saucers. Or B. Suspend the pots off the saucers. I'd be more worried about the mix being in contact with that water than anything else.

I washed all of the combo acidic potting mix/gritty mix from the camellia's roots. Then, I re-potted the camellia in a straight potting mix that is "perfect for acid-loving, shade-dwelling plants like azaleas, camellias, and rhododendrons". Finally, I cut off all of the dead branches/twigs and removed all of the completely-brown leaves. The camellia is now "recuperating" -- in filtered sunlight -- under my patio cover with lattice-panels.

Hi Dave,

The pots are outside

Do you NEED the saucers? I bought the saucers with the containers. Since the saucers are a problem, it don't NEED them.

If you're using the gritty mix why do you feel you need wicks? Recommended by Al Tapla.

I think you're looking too far into it. If you're already using the gritty mix, I wouldn't worry about wicks.

Wicks do work well if you're using a heavy peat based soil and in a pinch.

If your plants are outside, I'd personally get rid of the saucers.

All of my indoor plants spend summers outside and winters inside. I do not use saucers for any of them when placed outside. They're not able to drain freely in the rain anyway.