For the most part, I've found master showmen's growing techniques are the same with few variations here and there. I am a mediocre showperson, but I've done a great amount of pestering of my betters over the years. It's been an honor judging at shows with them, and chatting for long hours online and in person, and unashamedly pick their brains.

Master showmen only allow 2-6 sets of leaves (depends on bloom size) on the main stalk, then pinch out every other branch. They allow only one bloom at a time, making sure each resulting cut bloom will have at least two sets of leaves with no buds or laterals.

Masters have an uncanny sense of timing, through long experience, knowing how to time buds to be ready for a given show. That's not to say they are always right... They buffer their timing with plenty of plants of the same variety, so they have lots of bloom choices.

Masters also water at least three times a week (if not daily), with weak fertilizer often. These dedicated folks spend a good amount of time each week on EACH plant, grooming them and checking for any issues BEFORE they become full-blown problems.

I'll have to rummage for a good pict of a groomed show plant. I find them very unattractive, and prefer a fuller bush in my garden (this would be one reason I am only a mediocre showperson). [edited to say, I don't have one in my images. Sorry.]

Interesting side note: UK show growers are much more precise in how they groom each variety, as the resulting bloom must fit through a ring appropriate for that variety's class. A bloom too big or too small is disqualified. The result of the strict size enforcement is 'recipes' on how to grow different varieties. In contrast, U.S. show rules technically don't penalize for bloom size, though it often DOES influence the judge's final decision on tie-breakers.

Here's a quick blurb a few years back from Alan Fisher, an accomplished showman, on timing blooms...

"one can try to estimate blooming time. If one has a terminal
bud, one can estimate when that bud would open. (See article in the June
Bulletin in 2 of the past 3 or 4 years.) Count down leaf nodes. One can
estimate 6 to 7 days for each set of leaves. If one selects a lateral 6
sets of leaf nodes down from the terminal bud, then one can expect the
lateral from that leaf node to bloom 36 to 42 days later than the terminal
bud. This procedure is useful in determining which leaf nodes to use when
topping for a show. I would estimate more like 7 days per leaf node for AA
and A and more like 6 days for B or BB. The exact timing varies with
latitude (further north days are longer and thus development may be
quicker). However, plants often develop faster in warm than in cold
weather.

Thus temperature can also affect timing. When topping late, top as
little as possible. It is not necessary to remove everything in the
center. Indeed, when topping, I try to eliminate as little as possible to
avoid getting a hole in the center. I then remove all side shoots from top
leaf nodes as soon as I can. I check each plant at least twice a week and
remove extra laterals as soon as possible -- unless I want to leave some
for double topping or timing purposes."

Here's some discussions about grooming plants... have to become a member (no fee) before viewing the second two, as this is more advanced stuff. Careful, you can get really confused reading some of this. Good insights, if you can keep it straight.

http://cubits.org/dahlias/thread/view/81736/

http://cubits.org/Dahlias/thread/view/81758/

http://cubits.org/Dahlias/thread/view/81742/

Here's an example of two blooms from two growers of the same variety... do the grooming and growing techniques have to do with the difference? You betcha! No luck there... all skill. I've only been able to accomplish half that swirl on the right one in my own garden.

Well, okay, just the START of the swirl... (blushing)