I don't claim to know all the rules, but I've never heard of "a pvc membrane directly on top of our subfloor with no pitch". At 3 1/2 feet, (1/2 of 7') a 3/4" pitch is an 1/8" inch shy of 1/4" per foot. I think you need 2" from the drain to the curbless curb anyway.

If what you state and picture is accurate it needs be torn out. The second concern after the "Flat liner with no preslope" is the drain flange, connection, type and weep hole protection, screws into/thru pan liner etc etc.

Undisputable in your case....
the number one thing you need to understand is there is NO way
Approved by the tile industry to terminate the pvc liner properly at the
treshold/recess/entry. It must be a bonded membrane.

What you have pictured is done wrong and whats being advised to you by Handyman #2 (is wrong as its to late to correct/save..)

It all needs to come back out and start new at drain flange and flat recessed substrate.

I suggest as you move fwd. you start with a new crew, pick a shower sytem such as USG, Noble, Laticrete etc. use there specified materials and methods with a certified system installer.

You should also have a written contract with a detailed scope refrencing The TCNA and ANSI installation specifications, ispections and a flood test verified before letting anyone move fwd. -best

In addition to the horrific ''pre slope'', the drain location needs to be at the far end, with a linear drain.

Sophie, the drain is already in place. If the owner were to request such a move, it would be a change order, meaning the owner pays both to dig up the current drain and for additional time and materials to reset the drain.

Mindshift: Not that expensive nor time consuming considering the stakes.

Whomever ''designed'' this travesty can pay the change order. If that's the homeowner, then that's the price of tuition .

Drain location here is NOT the issue, recessed "center point drain" location curbless showers are built daily worldwide.

Its proper design, planning, material selections, drain flange connection, proper grading, proper waterproofing, and the proper type of concrete that allows for weepage.

If one intends to build A "full mortar bed" clamping drain shower w/preslope in a curbless scenario (as pictured) A bonded membrane such as Nobleseal TS (or similar) should be used. One that meets IAMPO/UPC mil thickness for clamping drain flange and industry rating for waterproofing/pan liner as well as ...... it must be bonded at zero entry and it should be terminated with a capillary break outside the shower where the adjoining floor is also graded to the shower. This is not possible with the PVC liner used in these photos.

Why?

The membrane used here is Fastened and glued together it is Not a BONDABLE membrane it is A floating unbonded membrane and its reserved for only normal curbed showers unfortunately. If this is left there will be a major issue at entry as weve seen on these forums recently and simply trying to go over this mess with another layer or FIX is not going to meet any industry compliance nor work in the longterm.

Sorry if thats too much info but these forums are rife with mis-information relating to curbless and tile showers day in day out....I agree it is confusing theres a lot to know and not every tile crew or forum poster knows how to do it properly so hire wisely. Get a TCNA and ANSI manual and catch up with the very fast moving tile industry.

And to my folks at Noble please send me the new manuals !!!

how did the shower end up? Is it finished yet? I'm about to embark on the same size shower remodel and would love to hear how you are (hopefully) enjoying your new shower.