What do you hope to accomplish by putting glass on your table?

This dinner table is being used daily and extensively. I want to protect the top veneer and show the table top, rather than covering the whole thing with a foam pad or any such cover, that obstructs the view. Table has to be visible fully, but at the same time protected. Nothing heavy goes on the glass top itself, but it is likely to be dinged at the edges by utensils or some such, during regular usage. No kids at home, but some guest adults behave like kids and hence glass top is the best choice for me.

You don't want 2-3 pieces of glass. While you have a plan ... IF there is a spill, the liquid will go right through the cracks between the glass and be a nightmare to get everything up/off in a timely manner. We have a good relationship with one of our local glass manufacturers (we have gotten a LOT of table tops, shelving, etc. done over the years), and when in doubt, we defer to his expertise. I have not asked him about doing glass top this large before, so can't speculate about tempered glass in this situation.

You want tempered glass for safety purposes.

Tempered!!!

I can't have a single piece of glass that is 107 inches (9 feet) and weighs 114 lbs. I have to go with atleast 2 pieces in order to handle maintenance easy. Being adults, mostly we are careful about liquid spills and the one or two cracks will be covered with thick decorative linen, as i mentioned, which could absorb about 1/2 cup of liquid. I would clean up within one or two hours max, when guests have departed. The small amount that could seep through cracks would not cause a damage within couple of hours. Cleanup would be lot easy for me, if i have to deal with 2 or 3 pieces. So, i wonder if other pros here would chime in on this topic. Thanks.

Any glass on top of wood is going to obscure the wood surface due to the reflective nature of glass. Glass also scratches and shows even small amounts of grease/dirt/dust. Tempered glass is stronger than regular glass and will shatter into small pieces that are less likely than regular glass to cut you should they break. I wouldn't put glass over a wood table but for safety reasons, should you choose to do it, I would unquestionably choose tempered glass.

Is there any reason why you are not considering a clear protective finish...like polyurethane?...can't imagine how heavy the table will be with a hundred pound glass top...or what a disaster it will be if it breaks or cracks...

Please reconsider; tables are meant to be used and get dings and marks, just like sterling silver and hardwood floors. There is even a name for it called Patina that gives a soft glow over time and use... The wood should be hard enough that minor scratches will just add up to loved use over time.....just enjoy the table and use it as is. Glass is noisy and makes people nervous and gets moisture under it that can really ruin a finish.....Please just enjoy the wood and appreciate the patina it will accumulate over time and use.

I was also thinking of getting glass to cover my dining table. Let me know what you decide.

1. Hmmm....
   The table was barely used, and already has a bad scratch done by a guest. The top of the table has glossy veneer finish layer, which means the hardwood is actually not exposed like how it was done in olden days. I am not sure if the veneer on top would add up to a "Patina". I probably would end up with a bunch of scratches, and its not possible to resurface and refinish a veneer layer on top. The design on table top (that you see in the picture) is done by the veneer layer finish, which will vanish if i lose the top layer.
2. Polyurethane finish layer on top is not recommended for veneer layers, i would think. It fades into a yellowish layer over time. I would also think that it is going to show scratches on it, more than a tempered glass top, which then would be bad, over time. I have done minwax coatings on my other woodwork at home myself, and have researched a bit into various wood finishes. As for as i researched at that time, Minwax type coatings were not done on veneer tops. Correct me, if you are a woodworking expert. Thanks.

I have a new table that also got scratched and it was very upsetting. It has a glossy finish - I don't have the table pads for it - they discontinued the collection and now I'm stuck. I was also considering putting a glass top as a barrier so you can enjoy the beauty of the table without fear of scratching.

Have you considered plexiglass or acrylic? It would be much lighter than that large of a piece of 'real glass'.

None of the options will be un-scratchable...and veneer is not so paper thin that a scratch will destroy it...all surfaces will have a draw back...so I think you should just make the choice you prefer ....and deal with its shortcomings..my choice of varathane coating has not been a problem on veneer tops..and it protects the wood while being easily repairable when the inevitable surface damage happens...plastic or glass do not have that repair ability ...

I can never understand covering furniture for supposed protection. You chose the table knowing you were using it daily so it's done live with it and deal with the damages as they occur. If it isn't repairable in a 5-10 years buy a new set or have it refinished.

If someone drops a utensil and it hits that tempered glass it can shatter in a 1000 pieces.

It is getting scratched either way ignore it and and enjoy your table. Plastic covers on the chairs?

No plastic on the chairs wannabath :)

That is a beautiful table with the inlaid wood. I have a couple thoughts. I was given a table with a glass top many years ago and if a glass of water spilled, I had to move the glass off the table and dry it thoroughly as the liquid was able to seep under the edges. Second, if you have a 'rough' group using it, I would put something on it for each meal to protect it like a table cloth, and then remove it when not in use. I know that would be a lot more work, but you could still enjoy the beautiful wood when not in use.

I had a beautiful antique table in my bed & breakfast. I served breakfast there hundreds of mornings and never had any damage to it. I used placemats. I wouldn't in a million years consider putting a glass top on it.

And...it was quite similar to yours, but also had inlaid roses at the corners,

I can't imagine you'd want to lift off one or even three big pieces of glass to clean off spills.

If you really feel the need to protect your table, look into Optium plexi glass. It's plexi, but non-reflective, so you'll see the table's inlays.

Museums use it to protect their furniture in certain cases. You can paint the edge to match the veneer, and it becomes pretty much invisible. It also protects from UV damage, so there is less risk of light fading over the years.

The big con is that it attracts dust - and you'll need to vacuum clean along the edge to remove dust that creeps below the sheet.

If you go with glass, then I recommend NOT using tempered. If glass breaks, it will most likely crack, but tempered will shatter, and you will be picking up the scattered pieces for months.

Thanks for all the comments. I have received them all with an open mind. I have to revisit and research some more because each idea has its own pros when compared to others. So, after my research i will be sure to present my findings here again within a week. Couple of comments hidden in these threads below, are useful so far, in judging the pros and cons of a particular solution: I will share the links of interest in this thread, in order to keep all these findings together in one place on internet.

A discussion on Plexiglass(acrylic glass) Vs. tempered glass
A discussion on epoxy / polyurethane as protection
The-difference-between-polyurethane-varnish-shellac-and-lacquer

For the second link above, note that there is a relevant section towards the bottom of that page, with title "Best type of clear finish for a rough surface to be used as a bar top". The advantages of glass over clear epoxy is quoted there. I am yet to find out how much work is involved, if i want to remove & refinish a "shellac or polyurethane" coating that has developed scratches over years.

Currently, i intend to find out the exact nature and amount of force required to break a 3/8" inch glass and 1/4" inch tempered glass. This i intend to obtain by posting a question in a place where engineers hang out. I am yet to see a complaint online, where a tempered table top shattered in real life "normal usage" with no kids in the home to abuse it. I found that extreme heat can shatter it, but we are not talking extremes here, but average use with table linen mats spread around the top, no matter what type of table-top i decide upon finally.

Clear coatings are mostly very resistant to scratches or damage....some are designed as non-yellowing but in my experience yellowing has rarely been noticeable....if repair does become necessary...usually light sanding and re-application are enough...removal of finish not necessary...all the steps are a pretty easy diy..recommend a visit to a quality paint store for product advice if you are unsure of what to use for your specific needs...after many years I have settled on urethane or varathane products as they are easy to use and dry quickly to a reliably smooth finish

To be clear epoxy may be more effective when you have rough finishes that need thick coverage...not usually used on fine furniture or decorative veneer....verathane...etc. Is a thin coating like varnish but much easier to apply and offers better protection...don't mean to over explain but you seem like a person who is very precise and attentive to details...good luck on your project

Got delayed on attending to this. Thanks for additional comments RITASJ. After a visit to the cheapest glass shop locally, i found the shop owner insisting on a recommendation of 1/4" glass over tempered glass of same thickness. The sample he showed was not as clear as i would have liked (had some greenish tinge to it). My research also reveals that products such as acrylic/plexiglass have more clear look and more light transparency in them. A visit to local TAP plastics shop revealed that i can get a "Scratch resistant Acrylite" which is a brand name like Plexiglass is. This product, when cut to shape and finished, will cost almost the same as the 1/4" inch glass, but this is 1/8" in thickness, has more ability to withstand shocks, and will have the top surface of Acrylite impervious to simple scatches that develop over time. This is also a "non-yellowing" product, which was a concern for me, with things like PolyEurethane.

But, after reading ritasj's comments, i have one final search to do to find if "varathane" like product would get the job done. From what i have found (after hours of reading) is that each product has its own pros and cons - for example, Acrylite is half the weight of glass, but has its own drawbacks. So, one has to simply choose depending on the criteria of importance in their situation (expense Vs. weight Vs. light transparency Vs. scratchability etc). I will finish this thread, with updates after i choose a product and finish the table within couple of weeks. Meanwhile, here is an off-topic webpage that might be of interest to very few here, but valuable nonetheless - Wood preservation for antiques

Sam ...I cannot stress enough..an applied finish protects and most importantly can be repaired easily...once plastic or glass is scratched it will always look damaged until replaced...if you notice in the marketplace wood tables for dining...for daily wear and use ....with dishes ..utensils...heat...cold...are not usually covered with glass or plastic...these surfaces are more commonly used in display cases...desks...etc. that do not get direct contact or potentially damaging use...using a varathane type coating can be used without placemats or tablecloths and stand up to spills....dropped silverware...and any other normal mistakes ...with the added protection of not allowing damage to delicate inlays and color variations...It is obvious that your first choice was glass but in addition to the flaws in that choice ...I think aesthetically ...a glass top on the table you describe would be unattractive...kind of like the plastic covers on the furniture at grandmas house...no matter how pretty the furniture is underneath ....the covers ruin it..

In the interest of collecting all material that i have come across into one place, i am continuing to post here, for helping others in similar situation like me. I got a chance to search some more. Notice that the section on "Furniture Polishing" is the relevant section for us, in the link i posted in prior reply here (titled "Wood Preservation for antiques"). Also i infer from the above link that any form of coating that adheres and is difficult to remove is not recommended by pros. I came across another webpage that has similar recommendation from pros. Here is the link to that -Wax is the best protection for wood. Even though Polyurethane (varathane etc) products are being used successfully, this webpage is discouraging me and letting me move in the direction of finding one of the wax products as solution to my problem - Silicone Vs. Polyurethane.

Note that Silicone is not good on wood, and hence the above link is only to provide the perspective of Polyurethane. So, i am currently looking into the best wax based product, since the experts have agreed on that. The downside is that i may have to reapply wax frequently, given the wear and tear that will remove the layer over time. This will keep my table exposed, as some people here have recommended, without any visible covering. My second choice for this problem would have to be the Scratch resistant Acrylite from TAP plastics, which costs as much as glass but provides a clear transparent view without the coloring seen in a glass product.

Thanks to all those who commented.

I have an antique table I use a felt pad and a table cloth. Scratches can be removed with polishing compound.

The following two weblinks seem useful. I notice that for day to day use, people seem to prefer polyurethane over wax. In case poly is applied, the second link gives process to remove poly after years of use, in case a reapplication is needed.

polyurethane-or-wax-finish-on-dining-table ??
How to strip-polyurethane from wood.

The more i search, the more i am finding that people prefer polyurethane over wax, due to the strength and abrasion resistance that it provides. The number of hits on a google search for wax finishes, is way less than hits for poly wood finishes.

hi sam,

i'm in the same situation to find a suitable top for my dining table. what did you decide on in the end? thanks!

Hi Tan,

As i mentioned in previous post, each solution has its own pros and cons. After considering all materials, i concluded that my last choice was best choice for me........
The only problem i faced was because my table has curves and is not hard to reproduce (being a heavy weight big table). I had to draw the outline (on a big whiteboard type material i purchased at MICHAEL's) because TAP plastics will not create the outline of the sheet you want. They will only cut a Acrylite sheet, to any shape that you provide them. So, this would be the challenge for non-rectangular shapes. But you are in luck, as your table seems rectangular in shape. Just giving dimentions to TAP would be sufficient. Cut it about 1/4 inch (or 1/8) more than the actual dimension of the table, to allow for accidental water spills.

" My second choice for this problem would have to be the Scratch
resistant Acrylite from TAP plastics, which costs as much as glass but
provides a clear transparent view without the coloring seen in a glass
product."

Just a follow-up on my previous message: I, eventually, decided to go with tempered glass as it provides the best protection with kids around. The advice of adding 1/8th of an inch to the outer edges (1/4 total for both sides) is really sound. it does keep food crumbs out of space between glass and the table surface. So far, I quite like it.

Hi Tan, How has the glass top performed with spilled liquids? Some folks reported that it rolled under the edge of the glass & then it had to be removed to clean spills that seeped underneath. I also have children & just ordered a table...

Hi Sam,

Did you go with a polyurethane coating or acrylic top? What is your experience so far? How has it performed? Would you still recommend that to others who plan to use a similar table for a daily family meal (including children)? I‘m getting a new table on Sat.

Thank you!

It sounds like you may have gone with an acrylic sheet. If so, what thickness did you choose or do you recommend?

Is the glass resting directly on the wood or are you using spacers? And if so what kind?

Sam!!!

I am doing the same thing with my table and it is 139 inches long!!

I wonder why folks even took the time to respond with their insane comments!

I am going with 3 pieces of glass in 1/4 in thickness!!
Joy

We had a fancy inlaid table, about 5’ long fancy shape. We had a glass company make a template & cut us a glass table top. ( kids gone). Occasionally water got under the glass, but in general it did a good job. That was 20 years ago. Today I’d go with plexiglass. Its safe, no glare, & can protect the finish from sun fading. We still have the table ( closes to smaller entry hall table)
It looks excellent.