Put everything back the way it was done before with clear silicon caulk except order black outlet plates. See link below:

https://www.kyleswitchplates.com/black-switch-plates/

The previous owner used black because white or almond would stick out . Hold everything in place for a couple of days with tape and something heavy until the caulk sets up. Trim and clean caulk that squeezes though with a utility knife. Turn off circuit beaker first. Don't reinvent the wheel here, you may create a bigger problem.

It appears to me that the cable coming into the box is not captured with a retention device. They drilled a hole rather than using the built-in clips. The box(es) should be replaced and wired correctly.

Thanks MLKD. I appreciate the quick responses. I put in the black outlets. The outlets I'm replacing were white or almond and they painted them black. It looked awful.

There isn't much chance of removing the outlet boxes and replacing them. As much as my wife wants to redo to countertops, I have way too much work to do in insulation and upgrading our boiler system, it's just not in the cards.

Is it even within code to use the low-voltage plates in front of the blue code compliant boxes?

It appears that you can get to the screws holes in the blue box. If one is a little too close to the edge, the box should be able to be pried around enough to work.

This type extension should work.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Arlington-Industries-2-Gang-Wall-Box-Extender-BE2-1/202245821

You also need to get longer 6-32×1.5" screws for the devices. Make sure the heads are not too big/thick for the plate to sit tight.

The cable does not always need a cable clamp, depending on how close it is fastened to a stud. The bigger issue is effectively closing the big ½" knockout in the back of the box. The little push-in cable clamps can often be put in from the wrong side if modified slightly.

I'm not using low voltage boxes. it was just the four size reference. I can't get screws in any of the holes. I've tried.

What is the exact height of the hole in the granite?

No idea, Fred, but as it is, I can't really check because I already put it back together. I do appreciate the help, concerns and attention. I do what I can to do a job right, but in this case I'm thinking that spending another $10k replacing the granite to get to the outlet boxes to do it the right way is just a little much for replacing ugly painted outlets. Damn hillbillies.

Heck, at this point, at least everything will be grounded, and GFCI protected. as it was, the garbage disposal was ground, but not the dishwasher, the 4 outlets next to them, probably 14 of 16 outlets in the room. It's not 100%, but it's a hell of a lot safer than it was.

As long as that orange spacer actually stays put and doesnt come off if someone pulls a plug. It Iooks like it would come off. Really should find longer screws and make sure the outlets are secured to the blue box.

Getting new granite wouldnt make a difference. It has a certain thickness to it. Fred S gave you the solution you need. Either do it or risk pulling the whole thing out while its live in the future.

I disagree, you can't glue an orange moutning ring that's not designed to extend a box onto a box to comply with the code requirement that the boxes be a quarter inch from the finished circuit. This is an unconscionably sloppy illegal installation. Get a competent electrician to do it correctly

Oh I didnt mean for him to glue it. It kind of does read that way sorry. I thought that orange thing was held by the tabs somehow. I was worried it would come off and you would have exposed live wiring. I agree it needs to be fastened correctly, and allow for future removal. Just get longer screws. Take the screw to the store and look in the fasteners aisle for size #6 with 32 thread.

It's not listed for that use. It matters NOT how great a method you find to attach it.

It is illegal, unsafe, and unworkmanlike to foist this abomination on a customer.

Get a COMPETENT electrician to do this right.

I appreciate you guys responding, but please read the replies. I've tried longer screws, and they will not line up, which is why I was talking about cutting the granite back to begin with.

Also, the low voltage box was only there to reference the size of the holes to where mounting holes for outlets would line up because looking at it from parallax, it looks like you can get them in the, but you can't. It's done. Not the way it should have been to begin with, but it's done, and nothing bad is going to happen. the low voltage boxes weren't used. They are for another project for home theater wires.

The backless low voltage box is NOT intended as extenders. They make REAL box extenders for this. Saying "nothing bad is going to happen" is sticking your head in the sand. The code is there for a reason.

If the granite does cover the screw holes then yea I would call them back and have them make those accessible. Otherwise, box extender.

Ron, I'm sorry to be the one to tell you this, but clearly you're illiterate.

And you're dangerously stupid., Sorry we can't reinforce the stupidity that you immerse yourself in, but reality prevails.

Ron, with all due respect, reread the OP's explanation of the low voltage box. He explains in more than one post that it was NOT used in the installation, that it was only used for reference. Not sure exactly where everyone got the idea he actually used them, when he clearly explains that he didnt. Helps to read I suppose, and not just go by the sparkly photos ;-).

Ron's apathy toward reading the entire post does not change the fact that the current installation is a blatant code violation.

I have not seen a code yet that says you do not have to comply if you do it wrong to begin with, and it might be an inconvenience to do correctly.

Even Joseph's wife should know better ;D

Just to name a few...

And he didn't bother to spend a minute to read what I said. I didn't say that they were there now. I siad, they're NOT an answer to the problem.,

I said that they make real box extenders which is the solution to his problem.

Because he decided to insult me rather than reading my post, he missed the solution to his problem.

Yes, Fred, I agree, the installation is a complete half assed Rube Goldberg contraption, and at the very least needs a proper box extender and probably strain relief for the feed, but that's not what my post was about. It was about the subject of the orange low voltage box that Ron continued to go back to, despite the OP stating that he wasn't using it (more than once).

It wasn't an installation. I slipped the damn thing over the outlets after I pulled them off the backsplash. They were never installed, just temporarily staged for size reference. Basically to show folks like Ron that a box extender wouldn't fit. I didn't need instruction on installing outlets, I wanted some input on cutting granite. It's over. It's done. It's fine. I have more than enough understanding of electricity to know that how it is install is safe. If a fire starts in the (which it won't) it was going to start in anything anyway.

Angle grinders cut granite fine. Get a diamond blade.

Pros typically have a dust shroud on their grinder though. Otherwise get a second person with a shop vac. Dust is always a concern with concrete and granite, especially in a finished space. It gets on every thing, not good to breath either.

Definitely that!