I think Scherr's uses Sherwin Williams equivalents. I just went to their newly designed web page (much better!!!) and they list their white colors as "Dover White" and "Extra White." Please note Dover White is different from BM White Dove.

I have been going through a white paint analysis for some trim and a few bath cabinets. It has been driving me nuts!

Perhaps Scherr's can chime in here on color matching. I have appreciated them being on here the last few weeks answering questions. Hope they can clarify for you.

I have been emailing with them, and they suggest waiting until I receive the doors and then bringing one to a paint store and having them match it. They will paint custom (in this case BM white dove) for an extra fee. I am hoping to hear from people who have gone this route (factory finished doors on a hand-painted cabinet and molding) and hoping even more that they say it worked out perfectly! Are you thinking of buying doors from Scherr's, mobuddy?

Florava, I have thought about replacing some doors on a bath vanity that I have painted. I ordered a sample door from Scherr's to see if it matched in terms of routing, edge detail, etc. I ordered an unfinished. It was a nice hefty door and good quality. Unfortunately, the styling is slightly different. Instead I painted the original ones. I used BM White (OC-151 formerly PM-2) after going through a parade of whites.

I still one day may replace the doors and drawer fronts with Scherr's. Can you order a sample piece of wood or door finished from them to see how it matches? If you do order one day, they will apply that cost to your final project.

The Cook's Kitchen has given you some good advice. If you are at all bothered by differences in sheen, slight color, I would echo waiting and paint on-site (or in a local shop). The differences would drive me nuts, but I must admit I am picky.

Luke with Scherr's here. This is certainly a challenge that we've spent a great deal of time and effort trying to get right for our customers. Like CK and mobuddy89 have mentioned, there may be some pretty significant hoops you'll have to jump through to get it perfect.

In the past, customers have sent chips or painted parts to our shop for us to match. We can usually get very close with color matching, but like CK said - matching the sheen/texture usually can't be done. We can change paints, but we can't change our process for applying the paint.

I spoke with our finishers about how to get the closest match without having the same equipment/process they usually take our parts through. They said to use a small roller, apply light coats, and sand with sanding sponges in-between coats (just to remove surface irregularities.)

Perhaps if someone else has developed some sort of process for matching the sheen and texture in a home situation without a sprayer, it may be good to chime in now with that.

I saw a blog where someone bought an inexpensive paint sprayer to paint doors she had bought from us. Here is the finished bathroom post:

http://www.stacyssavings.com/the-kids-bathroom-remodel-is-done/

Here is the post she made about the sprayer:

http://www.stacyssavings.com/my-adventures-painting-cabinets-with-a-critter-paint-sprayer/

Thank you for the compliments mobuddy89! Expect to see more improvements to our website in coming weeks!

P.S. - We'd love to get some before and after pictures florava!

Luke, when I dealt with you on the phone, you have been very helpful. Perhaps one day I will order new doors!

Your improved website is great too!

Luke, thank you for this info. Since I am trying to match existing crown, I will send you a very small drawer front I have that is the same color/finish as the crown. This will more accurately show the true color -- thanks for this smart tip! I am pretty sure if we get it very, very close, it is going to be fine for me. There is also a three-inch soffit (not sure this is the exact word) beneath the crown. I am hoping I can order a "cover" (for lack of a better word) for this piece that will also be factory finished and will cover the soffit entirely. I know it will add depth, but this is something I want so that the doors appear flush instead of sticking out. Because a picture is worth a thousand confusing words, I will post a photo below so you can see what I'm talking about!

I should add that I realize it's not a perfect fix and that replacing the crown and strip is prob the best option so a last question is: is it possible to leave the existing boxes in place and replace the crown and strip?

Thanks so much for your help with this complicated situation. I can also email you directly Leon, but thought others might also benefit from the info.

You are going to have an issue integrating anything, leaving that crown in place. You already have a band below it. You can't add things on top without making it look odd.

Replace just the doors, or replace the doors and color match the paint to the doors, and repaint all of the room's molding.

Yes, we can make taller doors. Yes we can send you "deco strips" painted to match.

Yes, we can make, paint, and send you replacement crown molding that will match your cabinets.

I understand you are trying to save a bit by keep certain elements of your kitchen, only replacing certain portions of the cabinetry. This is usually very tricky. Kudos to you for taking the difficult path! :) Usually when we do a FULL cabinet job we recommend installing the crown a bit differently than what is shown. This puts you in the difficult situation of figuring out if you want to patch it or pull it out and redo it. Usually we like to have the crown facial (which is that vertical piece) sit flush with the front of the cabinets. I found a link here on gardenweb where somebody shows several options for proper crown molding installation:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2671093/installing-first-cabinets-a-few-quirks-with-molding

Pay close attention to the advice being given by the many experienced folks here on houzz! If you want it to look great, do what you're comfortable with or hire a professional to do it!

You're going to $1.98 you way into spending more money than if you just redid everything properly. Any timeyou start going heavy on the hired labor to keep things and tweak, it ends up costing more than replacement. Labor is far more more money than product.

Florava, do you not like your current doors? The arch is subtle, not offensive in my opinion. Are you going for Shaker?

Thanks for everyone's comments -- it is really helpful to hear. I think I have come full circle and we are going to replace the cabinets too and do it right ONCE. I realize just how complicated it is to get the look I want while keeping the cabs or the crown and just getting doors and it's true that it will end up being expensive and we'll get okay, not great, results. If we are going to spend any money, we want to do it right or as right as we can afford -- really right would be blowing out a wall and expanding but that isn't happening ;) ! Mobuddy, you're right that I don't like the doors. They've bugged me since we moved in five years ago. We painted them white and it has helped but I think changing to a more simple Shaker (there's also a big trim piece at the bottom that you don't see in this photo) will make me love the kitchen. The space is also a bit dark and we are opening it up and adding more windows and eliminating some upper cabs to make it feel a lighter and more open. I've been talking to Leon at Scherr's and we just need to design it now. Does anyone have any thoughts on where to get ideas? I don't have much wiggle room because the space is what it is but I'm thinking more drawers on the lower cabs might be better if/where it makes sense. I'll search these boards and I'm sure I'll come up with tons of inspiration! Thanks again!!

Florava, if you are considering a bigger remodel, post your current layout and floorplan in a new thread in this forum to get some feedback. Best of luck!

Thank you, mobuddy! Great idea!